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Plugs????

Old Mar 31, 2009 | 10:46 AM
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Plugs????

Would there be a side effect using a colder plug on a N/A
 
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 11:28 PM
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bump!!!!!!!!!!
 
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by im the fit
Would there be a side effect using a colder plug on a N/A
yes...you could foul the plug...or it will do nothing
 
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 11:59 PM
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people use colder plugs on n/a nitrous setups.. i dont see why it wouldnt work.
 
Old Apr 3, 2009 | 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by dewthedew
people use colder plugs on n/a nitrous setups.. i dont see why it wouldnt work.
people who shoot no2 also change them very often...cant even begin to compare n/a to a motor on juice....ive had plugs fail on the dyno after one bottle...

you only run colder plugs when your creating more power and want to help control detenation....if your boosted or on the bottle you usually go a couple steps colder do to the increased heat from the extra air/fuel in the cylinder...if your n/a and stock use stock heat range....if you n/a and high compression usually one or two steps colder depending on compression

yes the motor will run on colder plugs but colder plugs will never reach proper temperature for self cleaning
 
Old Apr 3, 2009 | 11:32 AM
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will there be less power with the colder plugs?
 
Old Apr 3, 2009 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by im the fit
will there be less power with the colder plugs?
not at first but there would be power loss if the plugs foul up and cylinders start missing
 
Old Apr 3, 2009 | 03:58 PM
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only because its running richer?
 
Old Apr 4, 2009 | 11:17 PM
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bump!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Old Apr 6, 2009 | 12:00 AM
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bump!!!!!!!
 
Old Apr 6, 2009 | 08:53 PM
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if you are not boosted then no point i think. when it comes time to replace them get the same heat range but Denso IK20 or NGK IX plugs (BKR6EIX-11).
 
Old Apr 7, 2009 | 10:42 AM
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rule of thumb...1 step colder for every 50hp added.
 
Old Apr 7, 2009 | 10:48 AM
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I recommend you try T.M works Coil packs and ignition REV.
 
Old Apr 13, 2009 | 12:31 PM
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The threaded portion of the plug gives you the heat range, look at the threads you'll see that a few toward the tip are a dull burnt looking color the rest are black and shiny. You want about 2 threads showing the heat on the end of the plug and the rest of the threads to be shiny. If only one thread is dull the plug is too cold, and if you have three or more threads dull, theyr way too hot.
 
Old Apr 23, 2009 | 12:18 PM
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so here are my plugs running 14.1 to 13.8 at WOT, I'll be glad to take any opinions Name:  SDC13638.jpg
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 12:25 PM
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How did you do the WOT test? Did you run WOT and shut the engine off at WOT ?
They dont look to bad at all.
 
Old Apr 23, 2009 | 12:38 PM
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sorta, I went out and did a WOT run and came back and I let it idle for 3sec then shut the car off
 
Old Apr 23, 2009 | 05:18 PM
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not bad. . . .but to get a more accurate reading of WOT, try going WOT as long as posible, shut it off and coast back. Then check the plugs. . . .its how we do it at the racetrack, ofcourse its only a secondary measure since we run wideband O2 reader and EGT
 
Old Apr 23, 2009 | 06:42 PM
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I have the AEM wideband but people are telling me im running lean but when I look at my plugs they look fine
 
Old Apr 23, 2009 | 08:27 PM
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Im going to quote an advanced engine management book " modern engines are run at stoichiometry 14.68:1 a/f under most conditions to balance emissions and fuel economy. For best economy we sing to the other side of the stoichiometric balance about 15.5:1 a/f since fuel economy is targeted under cruise conditions. For best power it has been found that somewhere between 13.2 and 13.4:1 a/f is ideal"

Now if your running a turbo its a little diferent....whats your set up ??
 

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