anyone do this yet??

 

Come next summer after i install my t1r kit and run 10lb's i will also upgrade the injectors and pump, acording to artiman, in-tank is best... not a good idea to run 2 pumps incase 1 fails and you run lean.... if you only have 1 and it dies... you motor will just shut off... keep me posted on what you choose

 

hmm, anyone found any replacement fuel pump for the Honda Fit yet? Since Walbro dont make them for our cars, what other options do we have?

 

Does anyone by chance know how many lph our pumps flow?

 

In tank or in line each have different advantages. With two pumps, just use the trigger wire for the stock pump and two relays. One for each pump. This way when one dies they both stop. Or just get one big pum. All depends on preference and goals vs. what is available.

I have run several pumps in series and in parallel seeing success with both.

For boosted applications I prefer to run the pumps in series, because keeps flow up under pressure better. This is also the cheapest and easiest way to beef up your fuel system generally. By just splicing it in between the factory pump and the fuel rail. Some people even mount them on the firewall with a pre filter, and post filter, then a fuel gauge hanging of a 3/8" NPT adapting AN fitting like the gauge mounted on the rail behind my MAP sensor in the pic in my signature.

So just leave the stock pump in the tank and pick up an inline Walbro, Bosch, AeroMotive or Fuel Lab pump. Install with some thick wiring, appropriate tank and rail fittings, -6AN feed/return lines, high-flow filter, adjustable fuel pressure regulator with a gauge and you are good to go.

The stock pump rewired with thicker gauge cable feeding into something as small as Walbro 190lph would still be plenty for even the most ambitious FitFreaks. Won't do you any good without bigger injectors and a way to deal with the overrun, like the AFPR and bigger (-6AN) return line.

I don't see many Fits running more than 30psi on any compressor, and there is a wide variety that flow a couple hundred LPH even at ~73.5psi fuel pressure, since starting at 43.5psi base fuel pressure + 30psi boost pressure requires 73.5psi behind the injectors.

In-series pumps shine at higher pressure because they flow a metric shit-ton of fuel typically.

One big pump has to vacuum the fuel out of the tank, then push it through the filter and to the rail. A small intank pump feeding a big inline pump is operating at negligible fuel pressure which means it can flow a huge volume.

So now the bigger inline pump only has to pressurize the rail, and both pumps can work easier and flow more than the total volume the two would push combined while operating in parallel.

There are even rewire kits that come with instructions for this sort of operation, if you are going to modify your fuel system take proper precautions, like taking the battery out of the car..

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...rewire_kit.htm

Some people will tell you to "switch" one of the pumps with a Hobbs (pressure) switch, but that makes things yet more complicated and requires one pump to push or pull through a non-operating pump requiring it to run harder and possibly choke.

The few applications this switched setup is appropriate for are often not street legal, requiring a mammoth volume of fuel spending the bulk of their lives at WOT.

Here is a pic from the last in-line pump install I performed over the summer:


That rusty circle is the factory fuel pump hanger, that plug hanging to the left is where I sourced the trigger wire and that stainless steel line on the right is the output from the tank feeding right into the back of the external pump. The pump is mounted to the front underside of the spare tire well in the trunk up and out of the way of the suspension/axle and anything that could snag it on the occasions it goes off road at my lake house.

 

i had a walbro in my fit.
not sure the specs, a shop installed it in my car. all i know is they got it to fit.
it was slightly taller than the OEM one, required a littel more force to reassemble the fuel cage as well as some holes drilled in the cage for better flow to fuel pick up area.

1 thing to note, it was LOUD. usually the sound is muffled from being under the trunk, behind the back seat. since its right between the front seats, you can nearly always hear it whining. especially more when 1/4 tank or less of fuel.

 

This is a good point, while the walbro's have a distinct whine, that big bosch unit mounted externally sounds like a hive of giant angry bees, on top of the whine from the walbro I have mounted in tank.

Edit: do you know which walbro they used? I imagine a 190lph would fit because they are tiny as you can see above, and would supply more than 375whp worth of fuel.

 

i'm sorry but it is all getting to technically for me ))= so there aren't any intank replacement fuel pump that are plug and play?

 

Sounds like NightHawkSI was able to use a small walbro pump, probably the 190lph.

It is pretty easy, in the picture I posted above with the 3 fuel pumps, the small silver one is a Walbro 190LPH, and install required a short piece of 3/8" ID fuel line, 3 worm-gear clamps and a wire stripper and two crimp-on terminals.

All I did was remove the old pump from the hanger and clamp in the new unit.

It sounds like the install on the Fit may be slightly more involved. This is why I recommend going with adding an external fuel pump in-series. Besides, upgrading to a fatter fuel feed (and return) line, a better filter and high-flow fittings will all drop your IDC's allowing more head room on a given set of injectors.

 

i had one in my car. fitment was tight, but it worked fine.
chances are it was either the same one meant for the 06+ civic
WAL-GSS342

 

Wow, so the 255LPH unit fit in our pump hanger? Do you know if the fuel level sending unit is affected by this at all?

 

im 99% sure the 190 and 255 are both the same size.
but whatever pump i had, did not fit 100%. the sump area required a few 1/2" diameter holes for better flow into it.
and the install kit (filter bag that attached to bottom of pump) was sandwiched so tight to the bottom of the sump that it restricted flow and caused my car to shut off. not sure how the shop fixed this, but they did.

my fuel gauge read correctly.

 

i just fitted a 255 walbro pump, and yes i had to make some mods by cuttin some pieces of the plastic clamp that holds the pump up, and the new filter had to be bent due to it hitting the bottom of the plastic container of the assembly, I started the car but i have not driven it. Please tell me what mods did u do or the shop did to make it work, because i do not want the engine to stop while im driving.