I just returned from the dragstrip....
Ha ha nice! Thanks!!!
Btw i saw yoin traffic this morning just before the bridge... Do you live on the south shore? I moved from val-belair to ste-croix this summer (thats right i'm really close to the riverside speedway now
! We should go to the track together sometime! I just received my ingalls stiffyn and i cant wait to try it and go for a drive! 
As for headers, it looks like the DC will be my choice too... Maybe the price difference is only because of mild steel instead of SS
Btw i saw yoin traffic this morning just before the bridge... Do you live on the south shore? I moved from val-belair to ste-croix this summer (thats right i'm really close to the riverside speedway now
! We should go to the track together sometime! I just received my ingalls stiffyn and i cant wait to try it and go for a drive! As for headers, it looks like the DC will be my choice too... Maybe the price difference is only because of mild steel instead of SS
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Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 622
From: Québec city
Yeah it's possible, i'm from Charny and i work in Vanier!! We should install your engine damper at the same time we adjust your valves and go for a spin!! As for the DC Header, you wont regret it if you choose that one! Now that my valves are adjusted, i really feel the difference.. while you're at it, you could put some IK22 or BKR6EIX-11 plugs also... They really do a small difference!!
Tell me when you'll want to adjust them and i will check it out... but the best time for me would be in weekends or friday after 5:00pm! Just take notice that the engine must be cold!!
Marko!!
Tell me when you'll want to adjust them and i will check it out... but the best time for me would be in weekends or friday after 5:00pm! Just take notice that the engine must be cold!!
Marko!!
i'm also coming from the ptgt/srt4 world...
iirc, the 12.5 afr is the ideal mix for a f/i car... not necessarily an all motor car... i seem to remember that you can safely go leaner on a n/a motor...
the map clamp is a good idea as long as you can monitor your knock and ignition advance... i used to have one on my ptgt and it was a lot of fun... while it does lean it out a bit, the extra ignition advance is very nice - as long as it doesn't knock...
i've been keeping an eye on this...
for mod's on an obd-run car, your best bet is to reset the computer just before a run... it will default and should allow the car to run quicker with more advance...
iirc, the 12.5 afr is the ideal mix for a f/i car... not necessarily an all motor car... i seem to remember that you can safely go leaner on a n/a motor...
the map clamp is a good idea as long as you can monitor your knock and ignition advance... i used to have one on my ptgt and it was a lot of fun... while it does lean it out a bit, the extra ignition advance is very nice - as long as it doesn't knock...
i've been keeping an eye on this...
for mod's on an obd-run car, your best bet is to reset the computer just before a run... it will default and should allow the car to run quicker with more advance...
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 622
From: Québec city
i'm also coming from the ptgt/srt4 world...
iirc, the 12.5 afr is the ideal mix for a f/i car... not necessarily an all motor car... i seem to remember that you can safely go leaner on a n/a motor...
the map clamp is a good idea as long as you can monitor your knock and ignition advance... i used to have one on my ptgt and it was a lot of fun... while it does lean it out a bit, the extra ignition advance is very nice - as long as it doesn't knock...
iirc, the 12.5 afr is the ideal mix for a f/i car... not necessarily an all motor car... i seem to remember that you can safely go leaner on a n/a motor...
the map clamp is a good idea as long as you can monitor your knock and ignition advance... i used to have one on my ptgt and it was a lot of fun... while it does lean it out a bit, the extra ignition advance is very nice - as long as it doesn't knock...
Marko!!
"Max power rich" under WOT for N/A pump gas is usually no leaner than 12.5:1AFR, or lambda 0.85v.
This is about as lean as you want to go before there are diminishing returns and detonation becomes a concern. going to 13:1 is not necessarily going to be beneficial or safe, especially in a 10.4:1CR, unless you are running 93 or greater octane (R+M)/2 method.
F/I max power rich is far more dependent on what grade pump gas and compression, but usually between 11.3-11.7:1AFRs.
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Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 622
From: Québec city
"Max power rich" under WOT for N/A pump gas is usually no leaner than 12.5:1AFR, or lambda 0.85v.
This is about as lean as you want to go before there are diminishing returns and detonation becomes a concern. going to 13:1 is not necessarily going to be beneficial or safe, especially in a 10.4:1CR, unless you are running 93 or greater octane (R+M)/2 method.
F/I max power rich is far more dependent on what grade pump gas and compression, but usually between 11.3-11.7:1AFRs.
This is about as lean as you want to go before there are diminishing returns and detonation becomes a concern. going to 13:1 is not necessarily going to be beneficial or safe, especially in a 10.4:1CR, unless you are running 93 or greater octane (R+M)/2 method.
F/I max power rich is far more dependent on what grade pump gas and compression, but usually between 11.3-11.7:1AFRs.
Marko!!
Well every set up is unique, even if the components are identical. Give it a shot! AFRs are just part of the equation though, timing, coolant temp, Air temp, manifold pressure and fuel type/quality all play significant parts.
What I posted is from the mouth of OE calibrators..
They are also the general rules I play by because it errs on the side of caution, which for Daily Drivers and/or expensive builds it is worth it.
Go as aggressive as you want till you start to see 1-2* knock retard, then reel things in a little with a slightly richer mixture and take out a a couple degress of timing.
What I posted is from the mouth of OE calibrators..
They are also the general rules I play by because it errs on the side of caution, which for Daily Drivers and/or expensive builds it is worth it.
Go as aggressive as you want till you start to see 1-2* knock retard, then reel things in a little with a slightly richer mixture and take out a a couple degress of timing.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 622
From: Québec city
Well every set up is unique, even if the components are identical. Give it a shot! AFRs are just part of the equation though, timing, coolant temp, Air temp, manifold pressure and fuel type/quality all play significant parts.
What I posted is from the mouth of OE calibrators..
They are also the general rules I play by because it errs on the side of caution, which for Daily Drivers and/or expensive builds it is worth it.
Go as aggressive as you want till you start to see 1-2* knock retard, then reel things in a little with a slightly richer mixture and take out a a couple degress of timing.
What I posted is from the mouth of OE calibrators..
They are also the general rules I play by because it errs on the side of caution, which for Daily Drivers and/or expensive builds it is worth it.
Go as aggressive as you want till you start to see 1-2* knock retard, then reel things in a little with a slightly richer mixture and take out a a couple degress of timing.
Marko!
Here are some books you should buy:
Amazon.com: Engine Management: Advanced Tuning (9781932494426): Greg Banish: Books#_
Amazon.com: How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems (Motorbooks Workshop) (9780760315828): Jeff Hartman: Books
Amazon.com: Designing and Tuning High-Performance Fuel Injection Systems (9781932494907): Greg Banish: Books
These will provide a good knowledge base, then you will start to find more technical sources out of your own curiousity, and fill the rest of the gaps with experience! (read: trial and error)
Edit: What are you using to tune your Fit? Do you have a wideband sensor/gauge controller?
Amazon.com: Engine Management: Advanced Tuning (9781932494426): Greg Banish: Books#_
Amazon.com: How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems (Motorbooks Workshop) (9780760315828): Jeff Hartman: Books
Amazon.com: Designing and Tuning High-Performance Fuel Injection Systems (9781932494907): Greg Banish: Books
These will provide a good knowledge base, then you will start to find more technical sources out of your own curiousity, and fill the rest of the gaps with experience! (read: trial and error)
Edit: What are you using to tune your Fit? Do you have a wideband sensor/gauge controller?
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; Dec 3, 2010 at 04:28 PM.
Either the first or the third if need be, I like the way Greg Banish breaks down some of the principles of various platforms for beginners. He is an OE calibrator for Ford, and is a professional tuner with his own business outside of that.
I would recommend all 3 at the same time if only because you can cross reference as well as pay shipping only once.
I would recommend all 3 at the same time if only because you can cross reference as well as pay shipping only once.
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; Dec 3, 2010 at 04:29 PM.
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,304
From: Illinois
I also recommend Amazon.com: High Performance Honda Builders Handbook (S-a Design) (0601784000493): Joe Pettitt: Books 1 and 2.
I also recommend Amazon.com: High Performance Honda Builders Handbook (S-a Design) (0601784000493): Joe Pettitt: Books 1 and 2.
I speaked to some fellow Toyota co-workers that have the exact same problem then me and it seems like the Fit ECU may adapt too well to engine mods...Herman had the same trouble in his 2005 Celica GTS and had to unplug the battery twice at the dragstrip or the ECU would start to figure out there's something wrong and his times would suck! The cure? He changed his ECU to a Apexi Power FC and now the car is consistent!! Sooo, i'm gonna return there next sunday, do a couple of runs and then unplug the battery half an hour and see if it helps! 2003+ Neons would do exactly the same thing but i allready knew that... I just didn't know Fit's ECU would be THAT testy...
I will post my results soon enough!!
Marko!
I will post my results soon enough!!
Marko!
Similar history here on strange ECU behavior: after anti friction and ILP my mpg improved a lot. Then, in a couple of days, returned to previous values...
Couldn't we wire a gorgeous red hard switch and physically detach the battery every night, to get more performance?
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 622
From: Québec city
Ciao Marko!
Similar history here on strange ECU behavior: after anti friction and ILP my mpg improved a lot. Then, in a couple of days, returned to previous values...
Couldn't we wire a gorgeous red hard switch and physically detach the battery every night, to get more performance?
Similar history here on strange ECU behavior: after anti friction and ILP my mpg improved a lot. Then, in a couple of days, returned to previous values...
Couldn't we wire a gorgeous red hard switch and physically detach the battery every night, to get more performance?
Marko!!
Last edited by DOHCtor; Apr 6, 2011 at 02:19 PM.
do you mind if i ask for how much you got it?