Last year my best E.T. was 17.75 @ 77.5Mph... I added a DC Sports Header, an ASpec Axleback and a Sun Automobile Hyper Voltage System and returned there today...

17.77 @ 77.6Mph..... :|

Then i did check my ignition advance with my OBD2 Scantool.... Last year it would have 18° of ignition advance at Redline... now it tip the scale at 10°... With exactly the same fuel in it!!! Somebody at Kraftwerks and\or Hondata can explain??

I think that if our ECU had a nose, it would have a little square mustache under it!!

Marko!!

 

I speaked to some fellow Toyota co-workers that have the exact same problem then me and it seems like the Fit ECU may adapt too well to engine mods...Herman had the same trouble in his 2005 Celica GTS and had to unplug the battery twice at the dragstrip or the ECU would start to figure out there's something wrong and his times would suck! The cure? He changed his ECU to a Apexi Power FC and now the car is consistent!! Sooo, i'm gonna return there next sunday, do a couple of runs and then unplug the battery half an hour and see if it helps! 2003+ Neons would do exactly the same thing but i allready knew that... I just didn't know Fit's ECU would be THAT testy...

I will post my results soon enough!!

Marko!

 

It was made to get good fuel economy, and will stick to that base progamming law no matter what you throw at it. I ROFL at the "square mustache" gag, too true! Let us know how it turned out....

 

Well i'm gonna try something new in the Fit.... a MAP Clamp!! I never heard of one installed on an All Motor Car so i may be the first to try this... All i need is a table of Air\Fuel Ratios VS. Voltages so i can check out my AFR with my Scantool at WOT to be sure not to tune it ovely lean and blow the engine up!! If i can clamp the MAP voltage to a value that will give something like 12.5:1 AFR and ''ideally'' have my Timing advance back at it's initial values, it may prove being the smartest 20$ invested on the car EVER!!

More impressions on this later!

Marko!!

 

I'm in for updates on this one, if it works you get my vote for "man of the year" LOL
How is the voltage clamped to a set value BTW? Do you go ino the ECU and do it by code, or do you just jumper the MAP sensor somehow?

 

Google MAP Clamp and check on any of the 10 million Neon SRT4 links!!

Marko!!

 

Howto: Map/Tip clamp install pictures - SRT Forums - SRT4, SRT6, SRT8, SRT10 & Dodge Forum
http://www.gcsrts.com/dasmopar/FAQ.asp

Marko!

 

Sadly this is true, if you want your ECU to not interfere and keep the benifits of your mods you pretty much need either an E-manage Ultimate or an LFC (Learning Function Canceller)... which I have only ever seen one, which belonged to Ben at AJR.... and I think costs a lot of money.

I went the E-manage Ultimate route with mine, after tuning it... then checking out the tune a few weeks later my car quit changing things and I was able to keep the A/F ratio right where I wanted it. The main problem with my car is I had so many modifications that if I didn't add fuel it was running way too lean and the ECU kept trying to run it too rich near the 4000rpm mark.

I recently pulled it all out of my car, my car feels really slow now

 

17.77 @ 77.6Mph was it all worth it?

 

Aw C'mon give the guy a break. The only way to get a Fit into the low teens is to K-swap and FI it. Or drop it out of an airplane LOL I sm interested in Markos ideas with the MAP clamp and Sugarphreak experiences with E-manage simply because i know that our cars ECU will tune around some of the basic bolt on parts, negating any modest gains you might see. If these guys have found a reasonably priced way to undo some of that I'm all for it.

 

LOL @ modding a fit and it actually got slower

 

Returned there today except WITH my back seats and spare tire!

-18.26 @ 75.5Mph...
....unplugged the battery 10 minutes...
-18.06 @ 75.9Mph

If the ECU doesn't negate gains from bolt-ons then the stock intake, header, exhaust, etc, aren't a bottleneck on a L15A1!!

Marko!!

 

How did you come to this conclusion.

 

I think there is a bottle neck in the L15 but you don't realize it is there until you begin to make changes in one end or the other of the system. For example, if you swap on an exhaust system from the header back and leave the intake stock, the bottleneck becomes the intake. If you then swap out the intake box for a CAI, then the intake manifold becomes the bottleneck. If you modify or replace the intake manifold, then the economy minded programming of the ECU becomes the bottleneck. Changing the ECU without changing the rest will net you next to nothing because the entire powertrain is meant to function symbiotically with the goal of good economy. If you insist on changing all the hardware but leave the stock programming, your gains are limited by the fact that the ECU wasn't programmed to make more power. Marko, tuning by ET and trap speed alone will drive you insane, there are simply too many variables to control.

 

I agree with your statement 100%. But I don't understand what Marko is trying to say.

I think I'm having trouble with the "double negative" wording...if I rearrange it to an equivalent statement:

If the ECU negates the gains...then the ECU should be the bottleneck. What's more confusing is that the above statment was concluded after comparing 1/4 mile times WITH additional weight.

Just curious...that's all.

 

Seems the Fit is better suited to bracket racing than trying to make it even a 16-second car. If you're AT, just get your launch down, run your 18-second quarter miles, and win by not breaking out. That's how beating a 13-second car is possible.

I've been around too many drag racers...

 

2 weeks ago i went to the dragstrip and did almost exactly the same time i did last year but with the addition on an Header and axleback exhaust... 0.1mph faster to be exact! I was wondering if the ECU was dealing with increased airflow and hampered performance as my ignition advance was lower then ever before... I know 2003-up Dodge Neons operate that way so if it's an ''OBD something'' related issue, it would make sense that the stock programming of a Fit is designed to Kill power (deal with boltons!) So Yeaterday i went to the dragstrip again (But with my seats this time because my friends were out of town and habitually i remove them at Mario's garage!) I did some times in the 18.2-18.3 range and, after, i disconnected the battery for +- 10 minutes... When i plugged the battery and did a couple more pass, i was consistently doing 18 flat 18.1...

So...

-Rear seats and spare tire are good for .5 sec on a near stock fit!
-Resetting the battery will more then probably improve your times...
-MY fit gained a second on the quarter with a Fujita SRI, DC Header, ASpec Axleback and IK22 Denso's with the ECU resetted...

Marko!!

 

Yeah my bad! I meant ''If the ECU negate gains from bolt-ons, then the stock parts aren't a bottleneck!!'' Or ''Bolt-ons will give you nothing if the ECU is too stubborn!!''

Marko!!

 

Now you've got me wanting to try the MAP clamp idea damn you! I'm waiting for the "mad money" to build up enough to get a plastic welder. Once I have rebuilt the intake mani, I'll set on the task of fooling the ECU.

 

Mine should be comming this week! Eh Eh Eh!