Looking for near 130hp. What to do?
#21
04-14-2012, 11:18 PM
I think you may mean decreased powertrain parts weight maybe? Decreasing a vehicule's weight isn't going to increase your power but only improve your Power to Weight Ratio! Ultimately, both increased power and decreased vehicule weight will improve performance but if you want to be quicker in a Fit, you'll want to shed lot's of weight (Removing my rear seats and spare tires gave me a half second improvement on the ¼ mile!), improve engine power (Biggest difference dollar per dollar is nitrous but you'll have to fill up the bottle once in a while and it may end up being costly! Plus a bigger exhaust and header is recommended because nitrous generates extra to lots of extra exhaust gazes volume!) or go with coilovers, bigger sway bars, unibody braces and sticky tires!
What i would do if i were you!
-Lighter wheels and tires!
-Denso IK20\22 or NGK BKR6E-IX plugs!
-Lightweight crank pulley!
-Shed weight!
-Cam and injectors!
-Save cash for Forced induction!
If you really want to do it the N\A way...
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...ec-tuning.html
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...40-hp-fit.html
Hope this helps!
Marko!
What i would do if i were you!
-Lighter wheels and tires!
-Denso IK20\22 or NGK BKR6E-IX plugs!
-Lightweight crank pulley!
-Shed weight!
-Cam and injectors!
-Save cash for Forced induction!
If you really want to do it the N\A way...
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...ec-tuning.html
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...40-hp-fit.html
Hope this helps!
Marko!
Also for the record, I would say that .5 second difference was more than just the weight. A half a second is a ton of time and I have to believe would take more weight drop than that. You probably got a better launch, shift, etc.
#22
04-16-2012, 11:57 PM
It's hard to get a better launch\shift with a 109hp Automatic Fit with 205-50R15 Nitto Neo Gen! 
Really, removing both rear seats and everything in the trunk shaved .5sec of my quarter mile times! Granted it's easier to shave .5 seconds off a 19sec car then the same off a 12 seconds car!
As for that 140Hp Fit, i think it's plausible as he got increased C\R, a ported head and a piggyback that allows him to increase ignition timing! The ports really are the main factor that explain why it won't make much power at the upper revs tough... Would be curious to see what he could get from a cam like those that cat cams offers!
Marko!
Really, removing both rear seats and everything in the trunk shaved .5sec of my quarter mile times! Granted it's easier to shave .5 seconds off a 19sec car then the same off a 12 seconds car!As for that 140Hp Fit, i think it's plausible as he got increased C\R, a ported head and a piggyback that allows him to increase ignition timing! The ports really are the main factor that explain why it won't make much power at the upper revs tough... Would be curious to see what he could get from a cam like those that cat cams offers!
Marko!
Last edited by DOHCtor; 04-17-2012 at 12:13 AM.
#24
04-17-2012, 12:13 AM
It's hard to get out of the hole with 205-50 16 Goodyear Eagle GTs with manual transmission and a mess of stuff going on under the hood....The rear seats are removed and it does get to scooting along a little better without them.
#25
04-17-2012, 09:35 AM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,424
Git you some 24.5" M&H slicks.
The only way a stock Fit is gonna cut a good 60' is if some BBC slams into you during his burnout.
The only way a stock Fit is gonna cut a good 60' is if some BBC slams into you during his burnout.
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 04-17-2012 at 09:39 AM.
#27
04-17-2012, 03:10 PM
#30
04-18-2012, 04:12 AM
Pay attention to that 140HP thread. You will see his actual numbers were not even close to that.
Also for the record, I would say that .5 second difference was more than just the weight. A half a second is a ton of time and I have to believe would take more weight drop than that. You probably got a better launch, shift, etc.
Also for the record, I would say that .5 second difference was more than just the weight. A half a second is a ton of time and I have to believe would take more weight drop than that. You probably got a better launch, shift, etc.
but i do agree with the majority of people here though, that it is not economical to go for that power in NA compared to Turbo. And you also won't reach there by installing add-ons and definitely not by sheding weight. You shed weight to improve response and handling, not for adding power...
My motor is 7 years old now, but it only has around 28,000miles on it, due to the fact that it sits in garages most of the time and has been taken apart more often than a regular person owns cars in his life. Just next week, it will be taken apart again since it blows the seals again. So, go with DSM advice, and go Turbo if you still want to use your car as daily driver.
#31
04-23-2012, 06:40 AM
ok.. this is unimportant for you... but i'm just looking for a blow-off.....
today i was informed by my garage, that my motor has died.... and this time for good... my block crack, and the valves deformed.... So I will be looking for a younger brother to take up the challenge once again...
Still L15A, still NA, but with new target of 150hp... Wish me luck...
today i was informed by my garage, that my motor has died.... and this time for good... my block crack, and the valves deformed.... So I will be looking for a younger brother to take up the challenge once again...
Still L15A, still NA, but with new target of 150hp... Wish me luck...
#32
04-23-2012, 09:59 AM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,424
Rough news.. try cementing the block halfway up the water jackets, perhaps.
It takes about a month for it to set up fully though. I've done this with street motors too, half and full-fill blocks.
To make 150whp NA you are going to need a bump in compression, good fuel and a big cam to name the major players.
You are doing this on the Dastek Q right? Very popular over there for the turbo guys too.
It takes about a month for it to set up fully though. I've done this with street motors too, half and full-fill blocks.
To make 150whp NA you are going to need a bump in compression, good fuel and a big cam to name the major players.
You are doing this on the Dastek Q right? Very popular over there for the turbo guys too.
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 04-23-2012 at 10:04 AM.
#33
04-23-2012, 11:06 PM
DSM, tks. But cementing won't do. I said crack just for simplicity. Actually the block disintegrate on the top of the block between the water jacket and cylinder. I have no idea how that could happen, especially since it's on the water jacket side. I'll post up some pics later tonight.
And yes, I'm looking at bisimoto cam, spring, retainer so I can get higher rpm. But it's a long way to go, since I'm going to be building a new motor. And I'm not going turbo
the pic:
And yes, I'm looking at bisimoto cam, spring, retainer so I can get higher rpm. But it's a long way to go, since I'm going to be building a new motor. And I'm not going turbo
the pic:
Last edited by kodok3ribu; 04-24-2012 at 02:34 AM. Reason: add pic
#34
05-14-2012, 10:06 PM
Ok, just to update.. new motor has been rebuilt and mounted... currently running it slowly waiting for break-in.... wondering how much i can get from this new setup... i hope i can go past 145hp...
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