wouldn't the stainless steel be more of a conductor for heat then the anodized versions that are being sold?

i would think that kind of eliminates some of the gains found via the cai.

welding by yourself ftw though!!! def cooler then i am.

 

He man how much would you want to be willing to choptop my fit?

 

any metal based intake is going to get hot, I was thinking about wrapping it with insulation tape but we'll see. I want to stick a temp sensor inside it and see if it's warming up enough to really worry about it. If it was carbon fiber or other composite that would quite probably run cooler, but I could always have my uncle ceramic coat it or similar. I should ask him if they have any heat resistant coatings... hmm I will have to look into that.

Jits14 - It's just a PhotoChopNDrop, send me a pic I'd be happy to or I could use your current one.

 

One thing overlooked is the OP stating hes in the gulf coast states. With the amount of water you get hydrolock is a very big issue to have to worry about. I would recommend staying away from a Cold-Air system due to that issue alone...

 

"Gettinafit" managed to squeeze a Fujita CAI into my A/T Fit, yes it worked but the tube rubs up on the transmission and gets all scratched up. Sometimes you can hear a rattling vibration too on acceleration.

Fujita helped me out and sent me their new SRI for all my troubles! I just installed it this morning. So far it seems "quieter" than the Fujita CAI. More importantly it fits perfect. The butt dyno shows me no difference in acceleration from the CAI.

 

Awesome! So you need that old pipe!

 

I told you already that the old pipe is yours!

 

I built my own CAI and used a Ceramic TBC Thermal Barrier Coating from techline.com so that my 409 stainless intake tube wont let the heat into the intake from the engine compartment.
Just like the coating keeps the heat inside my exhaust from getting out into the engine compartment by heat soak.

I could even put my hand on the header after running the car for about 15 minutes. Granted I only kept it there a couple seconds (I'm crazy not stupid). It was hot but not hot enough to get burned like I would have if it had been bare stainless steel 304.

Helps to stop it from rusting as well.

john@bp
I work at a plating company and I have NEVER heard anyone say that "anodize" does anything to stop heat transfer. They anodize aluminum and can give it a nice pretty color that will help keep the metal from tarnishing and make it ready to be painted.
I just drive the truck and make no claims of knowing much about it but from what I've heard plating is for rust, tarnish prevention and to prepare metals for painting.

I'll ask some people at work tomorrow to make sure, but I talked to a lot of them when I was preparing my intake and exhaust for the TBC and none of them ever said that any type of plating would be of any help.


There are pictures and more info on the techline.com TBC in the DIY thread on the installation of my OBX SS Headers.

By the way the intake already has a temp sensor in it and it can be read from the OBDII port by a scan tool such as scangauge.

 

that may be very well be the case, maybe it was just an assumption by myself that coating the metal with something would help.

 

Most definately. There are some ceramic spray paints in the auto part stores as well but make sure you read the labels completely since some do just the opposite and help the heat to transfer instead of preventing it.

Which has another purpose such as on brakes so they can cool down faster by releasing the heat more readily.

I get the impression that a lot of people think plating has some other benifit.

 

I was right anodize and other forms of plating do NOT help to stop heat transfer and are not considered TBC's Thermal Barrier Coatings.

Plating is used to help prevent rust, oxidation, tarnishing and as a preparation for painting of various metals. In the case of anodizing, this is used on aluminum and is often used with dyes of various colors. I see a lot of red, blue, green and clear at work. Makes for some pretty parts.

For TBC's you'll want to go with ceramic coatings such as ceramic paint. I really like the techline products. They work and a little really goes a long way. And it's a lot cheaper than sending your headers (or whatever) off to be ceramic coated which can run into hundreds of dollars.

 

After deciding not to do anything for a while my BOM stayed stock until one day the clouds parted and the sun shone down on me.
I ended up putting in a Fujita SRI, I love this thing, it makes Yokai very happy and it sounds great as well.

 

To get more air in to the engine bay.

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/gaug...-interest.html
Thanks to Roguefit.

 

I have tried both and liked the the SRI better...... If you want to lower the intake temperature going through the throttle body, bypass the T/B heater hose by removing them and using a 3/8" air hose splice..... The temperature of pavement is as hot as the under hood temperatures in the summer and the winters are short in Texas, so that has a lot of influence on my choice. We also have to deal with outrageous rain, thunderstorms and flooding.

 

I voted SRI because i've heard CAI caused the throttle response to suck on a Fit!! Most SRI dynos i've seen had a little less midrange power then a true CAI but for alot less money... But if i had the ca$h, i would get a T1R Chambered 4 sure!

Marko!!

 

SRI is the best for the fit if you dont have that many mods to make up for the lag of a CAI, i had a CAI on my fit and liked it for awhile but relised that it really sucked on the get go, so during the winter i converted it to a SRI and man ill never go back, not only does it get go faster but it sounds amazing and looks amazing, cant go wrong with a SRI.

 

He is telling it like it is. The CAI is a good idea in theory but doesn't work as well as SRI.

 

o yaaaaaaa!

 

i live in vancouver BC, and i'm scared shitless of hydrolocking or worse. So i always go with a SRI just incase.

 

i like the afe intake

Cold Air Intake System Stage 2 Honda Fit- 07-08 L4-1.5L 54-11282 - aFe Power