Hi:
I have a 2015 FIT with 30,000 miles and a 4-month old 51R battery. When head lights are ON I read 14.1 V on the cigarette lighter port. With headlights OFF the voltage drops to 12.2 V or even lower for short intervals. Typically I drive with headlight set to AUTO so they are OFF during the day. If I do not drive the car every day the car won't start. So I have to jump it.or charge the battery. FIT has a two-stage Load Electronic Detection (ELD) generator control with a rating of high voltage output of 14.5 V and low voltage output of 12.6V.
Q1: Can something be tweaked to boost the alternator output from voltage form 12.2 V to 12.6V?
Q2. Could this lower voltage be due to a voltage drop in the wiring. Note that the higher voltage is 14.1 V not 14.5V. If so, how do I test it?
Q3. So far the dash board battery symbol has NOT turned ON during driving. So I am assuming that the current is still being supported by the alternator even at 12.2 V cigarette lighter voltage. I plan to go on a long trip. If the battery light on the dashboard turns ON, I only have about 1 hour of driving time. Should I carry a spare alternator on the trip to get it replaced if the battery dies? Alternators are expensive!?
Appreciate any guidance from the experienced folks!
Thanks

 

Sorry for you problem. I think the alternator is working properly on the car. It drops down charging voltage to take load off of engine and help gas mileage. Problem is a drain on battery or bad battery not holding charge.

Hope that helps

James

 

HI:
I appreciate your prompt response. The alternator voltage drops to 12.2 volts. Should it not be around 12.6? Also the higher alternator voltage is only 14.1 on the lower side.
Thanks
Ray

 

I know It is strange but true. It lets the battery voltage go down that low. You have already found out that turning on lights or air conditioning will make the charging voltage go back up to 14.2. I put a battery voltage gauge on my Fit and saw this happening. At first I believed my alternator was bad. To check for drain you could just disconnect battery post when you shut down the Fit for a day or two. Hook battery back up when you want to go. If car will not crank battery not holding charge. If all is OK and it cranks you probably have something on car running battery down when stopped.

James

 

I had "alternator problem" Changed alternator, battery, battery sensor and problem was persisting. Give car to honda dealer and they troubleshoot the problem. There was broaken wire which supposed to send information to computer for charging demand. Very wird problem but car is running eversince. Hope this could help

 

Thanks again for responding. For some reason turning on the AC does not boost the voltage up to 14.1 V. but turning on the headlights does.
I also did a car LEAK test by using an ammeter in series with the battery negative terminal. I found the following:
Driver door open: Current = 1.45 amps for up to 100 seconds
I = 20 mA to 8..9 mA from 100+ seconds. It was oscillating between the two values but was always below 25 mA
After 100 seconds the cabin lights turn off so the car current draw in sleeping state is less than 25 mA which meets the spec.
So this is still a puzzle..

 

Hi:
I appreciate your lead on the "alternator problem". How much did they charge you to isolate the broken wire problem and fix it? I wonder how easy was it to replace the wire? I am OK with electrical stuff and could possibly do it myself if you or some one else on the FIT forum has more information on how to go about checking that wire connection.
Thanks

 

In repair was involved friend who took the car to garage. Cost me around $300 fair price I don't know how they did it which wire. As matter of fact was the correct problem and car runs eversince with NO electrical problems. Sorry I don't have more info for you. BTW I'm also electricaly educated but I dont touch cars For me is just change the fuse or bulb period. I don't have to do everything hehe

 

Hi:
If you could briefly describe the problem that you were having that might help me figure out if the problem I am facing falls in the same bin.
Thanks
Ray

 

Sorry I will be not precise because problem was couple years ago. Basicly I had the same numbers what you describe. Started with battery because first car doesnt start. After battery was new and still always empty start testing alternator. Change alternator [not origianl but rebuild] still not charging battery and had to charge on driveway over night. Than last thing we replaced battery sensor but sensor was good. My Honda friend took car to his work where garage electric specialist troubleshoot and find problem. That's my story Very strange and anoying problem Wish you good luck

 

All:
I went ahead and replaced the battery with a new 51R. When I was replacing the battery I did notice some liquid in the plastic tray. Testing it with baking soda, I found it was acidic in nature. Could it be the battery casing was defective and leaked acid. Or could it have boiled over from the top due to overcharging? I did not notice any liquid at the top.
So presumably the battery was defective I Will report how it works out.
Thanks Everyone!