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Silly warning that everyone sees after battery died; will go away
0
0%
The battery is actually still not sufficiently charged and the car is warning me about that
3
100.00%
There is really a problem with the sensor on the battery
1
33.33%
Other
0
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"Check Charge System" message AFTER jump start

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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 10:18 PM
  #1  
scootley's Avatar
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Question "Check Charge System" message AFTER jump start

Hi,

So I left the dome/interior light on for a long time in my 2015 Fit and of course the battery died and I had to jump start the car.

After then letting it run for more than 30 minutes, I noticed the Information Display had a message saying "Check ... Charge System". The manual says:
Condition: Appears when there is a problem with the sensor on the battery;
Explanation: Stays on constantly - have your vehicle checked by a dealer.
So my question is whether this means:
1) It is just a silly warning that everyone sees after their battery died and will go away after some time (this is my guess)
2) The battery is actually still not sufficiently charged and the car is warning me about that
3) There is really a problem with the sensor on the battery
4) Other

I noticed many other posts on the internet about this message, but none seemed to be in a case like mine where the battery died fully BEFORE I got the message and now there is no longer anything draining it.



Thanks
 
Old Dec 2, 2015 | 10:47 PM
  #2  
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unless they changed something, it should turn off if your alternator is charging fine. it should only come on if your alternator is shot...
 
Old Dec 3, 2015 | 01:25 AM
  #3  
ezone's Avatar
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The battery light usually means the alternators' voltage regulator is having a problem.
With computer controlled charging, there's a lot more that could be involved....like the sensor on the battery neg cable.
You could also have blown fuse(s), that could cause the alternator to quit charging and the warning light to come on.


Is the alternator working?
Start with a good, fully charged battery in the car.
Connect a voltmeter to the battery, start the car and see if system voltage rises from 12.4ish (battery) volts, up to 14ish volts as the alternator starts charging.



The alternator is not designed to charge up a dead battery, you can overwork the alternator. You really should use a battery charger when a battery is really weak or flat dead.


If one connected the jumper cables backwards (even if only brief enough to make a spark), it can blow one or more fuses.
Check all of them, including the funny looking ones attached to the positive battery cable.
All 5 wires at the battery cable should show battery voltage. If any do not, then one of the fuses has blown.
A 12v test light makes this a quick check.
 
Old Dec 3, 2015 | 08:45 AM
  #4  
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Wow, I'm glad I changed to LED bulbs for the map lights and dome light. I left one of the map lights on for about 12 hours overnight. When I walked up to the car, I wasn't sure it was going to start. It did though and I breathed a sigh of relief.
 
Old Dec 3, 2015 | 08:58 AM
  #5  
Uncle Gary's Avatar
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Originally Posted by 2Rismo2
Wow, I'm glad I changed to LED bulbs for the map lights and dome light. I left one of the map lights on for about 12 hours overnight. When I walked up to the car, I wasn't sure it was going to start. It did though and I breathed a sigh of relief.
I did this change first thing when I got my Fit. Nicer, whiter light and a tiny fraction of the battery drain if left on accidently. IMO one of the best "cheap" mods you can make.
 
Old Dec 3, 2015 | 09:36 AM
  #6  
Press Fit's Avatar
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From: cascadia
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Originally Posted by Uncle Gary
I did this change first thing when I got my Fit. Nicer, whiter light and a tiny fraction of the battery drain if left on accidentally. IMO one of the best "cheap" mods you can make.
Please share your source for the LED replacement lights.
 
Old Dec 3, 2015 | 09:41 AM
  #7  
stembridge's Avatar
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Originally Posted by 2Rismo2
Wow, I'm glad I changed to LED bulbs for the map lights and dome light. I left one of the map lights on for about 12 hours overnight. When I walked up to the car, I wasn't sure it was going to start. It did though and I breathed a sigh of relief.
Same here, just a couple days ago. Glad I made the LED mod right after I bought the car!

es
 
Old Dec 3, 2015 | 10:29 AM
  #8  
tbFit's Avatar
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From: San Diego - Carlsbad, CA
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Originally Posted by Press Fit
Please share your source for the LED replacement lights.
And quantities required... I'm personally only interested in the inside lights. Also any tips for doing the actual replacement without busting up the plastic too!
 
Old Dec 3, 2015 | 10:48 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by tbFit
And quantities required... I'm personally only interested in the inside lights. Also any tips for doing the actual replacement without busting up the plastic too!
All your question about the LED replacements can be found here: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...bulbs-led.html

For the interior, I did the the map lights, dome lights and trunk lights. For the exterior I did the license plate lights in the back and the corner lamps in the front as well.

* The dome light I used the flat pancake light and it's really bright. Probably overkill but it makes the interior glow. This is the same bulb used in the trunk area. Map lights, corner lamps and license plate lamps I used the 5 LED bulbs

This is what I used:

Amazon.com: Jtech 10x 194 168 2825 T10 5 SMD White LED Car Lights Bulb: Automotive Amazon.com: Jtech 10x 194 168 2825 T10 5 SMD White LED Car Lights Bulb: Automotive

Amazon.com : Jtech 4x T10 921 194 24- SMD LED Bulb Super Bright Cool White : Automotive General Purpose Light Bulbs : Car Electronics Amazon.com : Jtech 4x T10 921 194 24- SMD LED Bulb Super Bright Cool White : Automotive General Purpose Light Bulbs : Car Electronics
 
Old Dec 6, 2015 | 11:57 AM
  #10  
tbFit's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2014
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From: San Diego - Carlsbad, CA
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Originally Posted by 2Rismo2
...great info...
Thanks for the reply and links! Ordering now...
 
Old Dec 6, 2015 | 09:46 PM
  #11  
GeorgeL's Avatar
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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 1,545
From: SoCal, CA
Buy a simple multimeter and measure battery voltage before starting the car and then with the engine idling. Before start, the battery should read 12.0-12.5V. At idle, the battery should read over 13V.

If the voltages check out then give the warning light some time to go out on its own. If it doesn't, it's dealer time.

I'm really leery of jump-starting from one vehicle to another because the two charging systems might damage one another. If I have to do it, I shut off the donor car, disconnect the good battery's negative cable, jump the other car, remove the jumper cables, then reconnect the good battery. That isolates the donor car's charging system from the other car.
 

Last edited by GeorgeL; Dec 11, 2015 at 01:41 AM.
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