I know, huh? Exactly! I checked the back of the wheels, and have the original box. I'm still puzzled. I just rechecked the enkei website, and +43 is the only offset they make in 16X7 4x100s.

Even if i were to roll and pull front fenders, it'll still be close. It might be more on the wheel width and Yoko brand tires. They maybe be wider than 205, they do "donut" or bulge at the sidewall on this 7in wide wheel.

I remember seeing a website that had the variances of each tire brand/model measurements even with the same tire sizing.

I'll see if Conti makes those tires for the 16in wheels.

 

it is very true that tire widths vary in the brand, model, and even size of tire.
i've encountered this many times. some tires are just wider.

the weirdest was with S04 tires when a 275/35 was so narrow vs other tires of the same size when their 285/35 was so much wider vs other tires of the same size.

 

You can check my album in my profile to see what I've done so far if you'd like.

Here's my advice though:

About #1, I am running with 195/45Z/R16.

The backs will fit inside the fender but 195mm width wheels will poke out about 1-2 cm from the front. I recommend going with 175mm to 185mm. If you go with anything above 175, make sure you have enough positive offset, and consider camber bolts (about 20-25 USD) for the front tires. Keep in mind that as your wheel size changes try to keep the sidewall ratio in proportion to the size change to keep the overall wheel diameter the same as the stock wheels. This is to avoid both improper mounting or rubbing and misreading gauges.

#2, Your springs that look nice honestly, however will put extra wear on your shock absorbers/dampers/etc, as they have a longer stroke now while the springs can't be adjusted or the damping either. If your ride is too uncomfortable or the rubbing too severe, consider some camber or return to stock, or if it's within your budget, replace your struts or go with coilovers for all the benefits and less hassle. (I'm using EXchange coilovers, but they're only sold here in Japan).

#3, Please consider using front camber bolts as that is your cheapest option.
Do not roll your fender, do not remove your fender liner, do not shave anything.

Here is why you shouldn't modify your fender liners:

1: (Rolling the Fender) Unless you have them done professionally, rolling them yourself may get an uneven, unappealing result. Only do that if you care not for appearance or if having a professional with the proper machinery doing it for you.

2: (Modifying the Fender Liner) Do not remove the liner or shave/modify it. Think about fixing the basic problem instead. Especially with a modern car.
The Fender Liner [Protects the suspension, brake, and electronic components from brake heat, road debris, and water spray/mud/dirt.
[Manages your car's airflow under the car for both aerodynamics and engine cooling]

Please write to me if you have any questions that you feel I can assist you with. I hope this helps you with your suspension/wheel problem.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'm thinking I should have went with a narrower tire for the least amount of fitment issues. But so far, the fitment is manageable. I only have a very slight rub or buzz at freeway speeds (65+mph) if going over a quick bump or sudden dip.

The front wheels are cambered at -1.8 degrees using camber bolts. I have no tire damage or fender damage. Suspecting the contact is with fender liner or edging trim. I plan to take a closer look later this week.

I would have loved to go with coilovers, and probably will in the next year or so as I get bored and finish out the project. There weren't many choices for my purpose which were cost effective(to me), and not much positive feedback on the forum. A few I considered although not "full-on" adjustable coilovers, were Bilstein, KW, and BCRacing.

Next on my mod list is exhaust. Another controversial issue for me, haha.

 

Hello! Thank you for your reply. I have a similar problem with my front tires too, as they are a couple centimeters too wide, protruding from the lip; it will not pass "Shaken" or car inspection here in Japan. I also experience a bit of split second rub on hairpin turns or quick stops with sharp turns. I am going to camber them in a bit, and possible downsize to 185 if possible as I need new tires anyway. My tread wear/slip indicator is nigh matched with the top of the remaining tread.

You may consider Tein adjustable front coilover set with adjustable rear shocks and spring combo. Those are affordable, especially used.

I am also planning on getting a new exhaust too, but I want to know if I can use a GE8 HKS Hi-Power Spec-L on my GE6 fit. The piping shape and hooks like very similar, and if it is only incompatible because of the bumper I do not mind cutting it to the proper fitment if necessary as long as the pipe, bolts and hooks can be connected.

 

Thanks for the recommendation. I'll look into it next time I consider suspension setups. I'll probably need new wheels/tires to go with it, so that'll be "on hold" for a while.

Fitdrift, do you plan to run a full exhaust or axle back only? Have you done any ECU tuning, or plan to?

 

Good Evening!

I want to just do an axle back just for now as that is all I can afford until I find a better paying job, I plan on working the 8PM-5AM shift to make a little extra money.

Once I have a better job, I will implement a full exhaust upgrade and a body kit if my GeForce GTX 1080Ti that I have up for sale is sold.

Japanese Fit's here in Japan have a different compression ratio I think so contrary to common knowledge, they actually may benefit from a higher octane fuel and a tuning or remap of the ECU.

I had planned on doing that but affording the fuel and the equipment is temporarily out of budget. I'll get my friend's help in Yokohama for that later on.

There isn't a whole lot that can be done with the engine that doesn't cost a small fortune. For now, I just installed an HPS Short Ram Intake I ordered from the United States. If I keep the car long enough, I'm considering a supercharger or engine swap depending on cost. Otherwise, I am planning on getting a new car, such as the new WRX STI or BRZ, or the Toyota GT86 and working on that, perhaps installing a 2JZ twin turbo Supra engine. Supra has always been my favorite car, but they are still very expensive here, and no longer in production, but rumor has it a new model will come out next year, the revival of the last one from 2002, but at a 5.5 million yen price tag.

 

car like the Fit.. just get an axleback for the sound. i dont care how much bolt on 'mods' people put on their fits.. unless turbo, it is slow.

 

Mr. Ken, here in Japan being able to navigate our winding mountain roads is more important than just speed.

 

i was implying for us in the usa. op is in san diego, i think? best he do the minimal mods to make it his ride and just save up for a faster car.

at least u didn't get a "RV" like them youngsters in Jland *shakes head*

 

or go out on a date with a 2D gf..wtf


lol

 

Yes sir! You are absolutely 100% correct. You've nailed my exact sentiment. Even with an axle back I'll get that feeling of "a lot of noise, car is slow anyways" feeling. I'm dreading the possible drone at 75mph cruising down the freeway at 3600 rpm.

But we will see, got to find out for myself. Just an axleback, yet I/E/H sits in the back of the old man's mentality of ricer mods, haha.

Exhaust on order. Should be here end of the week.

 

sounds good. i had a tanabe axle back on my GE and it was plenty.

 

That's what I've picked. I think it'll be "just enough". Kinda like the theme I have for this project. Have something, have fun with it, mod a little, not too much...just enough.

I'm still interested to find out if what they're doing in Southeast Asia tuningwise will make it out this way. That's why I asked Fitdrift if he was considering going full exhaust and ECU tune.

It's tough to be near the bottom of "slow" in the four banger food chain.

But driving like "racecar", when no one is around keeps it fun.

 

Hahaha you've had this car for two months and you've done more to it than what I've done on mine I've owned for 2.5 years

 

niteflight - u have the right theme going on. just mod it enough to make it yours and just leave it and enjoy it.

 

It's funny how things work out. But I knew from the gitgo that I was gonna mod the car. Just part of my nature I guess. To what extent, how much time and money I put in to it was to be seen. Second hand parts for the car are not as readily available, unlike a subaru. So being patient, checking ebay, craigslist, and such, the pickings were slim. I made a plan to "go slow", and came up with a mod plan that span over 8 months. Each month focused on a specific area of mods.

I'm kinda late to the party, but it may be a good thing since the modders before us have gone thru headaches of what works and what doesn't, put in their input, made reviews and recommendations. So the car becomes a "forum special". Bits and pieces of what others liked at a price point I was comfortable with.

I would of loved to buy brand new, or go with more car. But for my specific purpose for the car, it's coming together nicely.

 

Excellent advice. I guess you wouldn't favor multiple JDM stickers for the added hp?

 

i think those faux SOHC decals on the doors is okay. lol

 

Can you elaborate on RV? Do you mean a box like kei-car? Or more like van/shuttle?

I'm presuming everyone here who owns a Fit either bought it because it was cost effective or it was the right car for their needs. Nobody buys a Fit looking for speed unless you like to challenge yourself. The Fit is what I refer to as a "fast slow-car". With the proper optimizations, and either a swap or a forced induction setup, you can gain sporty, fun speed and can even time better on tracks or windy roads than a more powerful sports car like the WRX due to the light weight and good handing.

In my classification, I have "Slow slow-car, Fast slow-car, Slow fast-car, and Fast fast-car."

The Fit when modified with those enhancements above, I would say goes under the Fast slow-car. It's fun to drive regardless of speed considerations unless you are trying to drag race.

Keis like the N-Box or the K-truck I call Slow slow-car and an example of Slow fast-car and Fast fast-car in my opinion would be maybe a Porche or Mustang and a McLaren for the last two categories.

I forget that many of these users live in the US so the environment is more varied.
I agree with you that unless they want to keep the car for awhile, then it is best to save the money. Then again, people mod their cars as a reflection of themselves, a way of self expression and art, a hobby as well, just because someone spends 10,000 USD on their Fit knowing it isn't going to be beating Lancer Evo's down the highway doesn't make them a fool or indicate they are wasting their money as that is their car and if they love it enough to want to spend that much time and money on it I think that's great and should be encouraged as long as they are mindful of reasonable expectations.

I feel the community of the car world, and even people here lose track of what it means to be a hobbyist or an enthusiast about cars or a particular car, like when they stick to labels or try to be "elite/pure" and put others down by questioning their mods or saying "ricer" because they don't like a particular look (even though the car may actually be performance enhanced and not just cosmetics. (Oh and by the way don't use that term here in Asia if you don't mind, it's somewhat offensive if you think about it)).

Sorry I lost my thoughts a bit, but yes I agree, unless you have the money to blow, it's best saved for something better if you're wanting more performance than what the Fit can provide.