Fit Interior & Exterior Illumination Threads discussing interior and exterior lighting modifications for the Fit/Jazz

DIY: HID Retrofit with FX35 Projectors

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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 12:46 AM
  #101  
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 03:49 PM
  #102  
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would like to know more about how you stuck the projector to the shroud so it doesn't fall off.
and pics would be great...
you said you'd post pics long time ago but i don't think i ever saw closer pics
and btw...would it look weird if i had a shroud on without blacking out the reflectors???
 
Old May 18, 2010 | 12:27 AM
  #103  
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How were the dog bowls mounted? Did you cut a hole in the bottom? What size hole did you cut?

Also, for less hassle, Do you think I could just go with this stage III kit? and then do the shrouds like you did?

Bi-xenon FX-R Stage III Kit - Complete Kits from The Retrofit Source LLC

Thank you
 
Old May 18, 2010 | 11:31 AM
  #104  
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The size to fit the actual lenses.
 
Old May 18, 2010 | 11:47 AM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by olsoncor
How were the dog bowls mounted? Did you cut a hole in the bottom? What size hole did you cut?

Also, for less hassle, Do you think I could just go with this stage III kit? and then do the shrouds like you did?

Bi-xenon FX-R Stage III Kit - Complete Kits from The Retrofit Source LLC

Thank you

This is what I used. I went with the Apollo shrouds. Here's a quick picture of everything mounted in the car and a cutoff picture. I used JB Weld to hold the shroud to the projector.



 
Old May 18, 2010 | 02:24 PM
  #106  
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You used the stage III kit with apollo shrouds? Are the shrouds the last thing that gets mounted? what about just using a polyurethane sealant to mount the shrouds to make it tight to avoid moisture?

Thanks
 
Old May 18, 2010 | 03:00 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by olsoncor
You used the stage III kit with apollo shrouds? Are the shrouds the last thing that gets mounted? what about just using a polyurethane sealant to mount the shrouds to make it tight to avoid moisture?

Thanks

Shrouds are the last part to be mounted inside the housing yes. In regards to using sealant to mount the shroud to keep moisture out is not necessary as the OEM lens is used to seal the headlight. The shroud is simply for decorative purposes and to cover up the projector and mounting hardware.
 
Old May 19, 2010 | 03:34 AM
  #108  
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Does anyone have any pictures of a retrofit on a GE without painting the headlight housing? Just the factory chrome and retrofit?

The fit I ordered is Black and im not sure I want to murder it out. However, the black housing does a good job in hiding the bug eye effect of the projector bulb.
 
Old May 19, 2010 | 04:07 AM
  #109  
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also, I have been reading that a lot of people dont prefer pnp projector hid kits. I would personally rather just order a set of head lights and one kit to make things easier and get a warranty. However, I am reading the pnp kits produce glare and are not good quality? Anyone used the FX-r kit linked above and had good results? I see the picture above but cant really tell it they produce glare to on coming traffic from the garage. Comments?
 
Old May 19, 2010 | 07:24 AM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by olsoncor
also, I have been reading that a lot of people dont prefer pnp projector hid kits. I would personally rather just order a set of head lights and one kit to make things easier and get a warranty. However, I am reading the pnp kits produce glare and are not good quality? Anyone used the FX-r kit linked above and had good results? I see the picture above but cant really tell it they produce glare to on coming traffic from the garage. Comments?

The point behind a retrofit is to not have glare. Here is a shitty cell phone picture of my cutoff. This was before they were properly aimed so its a bit high.

 
Old May 19, 2010 | 10:29 AM
  #111  
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The visuals i am seeing from your kit dont seem any different from the ones produced by the fx35 projectors. I think I am going to just spring for the kit.

Question. Are you running 4300 whites? Also, because you are running a bi-xenon pnp, does your DRL light on the dash come on all the time?
 
Old May 19, 2010 | 11:30 AM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by olsoncor
The visuals i am seeing from your kit dont seem any different from the ones produced by the fx35 projectors. I think I am going to just spring for the kit.

Question. Are you running 4300 whites? Also, because you are running a bi-xenon pnp, does your DRL light on the dash come on all the time?

I have no idea WTF you're talking about... I'm running fx35 projectors (take a look at the picture I posted the one with the projectors mounted in the headlight...), granted they're a replica from theretrofitsource.com, they are very similar. I'm running 5000k bulbs, GD's don't have DRL's in the states, so I'm not sure where you're going with this. If you have DRL's I would disable them with this, or else you'll risk ruining your ballasts as the DRL's wont be putting full power to the ballasts.
 
Old May 19, 2010 | 12:19 PM
  #113  
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People have been bashing the PnP kits offered and saying that the quality of the after market replicas are not as good as an OEM projector (But not specifically this one).

What I am saying is that I think your results look very good and I think people are hating on kits to hate.

I have ordered a GE and have heard that the DRL will be on in the dash if a PnP kit is used which is why I asked it you had similar results. I was not aware GD had none.

And the reason I asked what temp you were running was I wanted to know if you were running 4300k for best results as far as visibility.
 

Last edited by olsoncor; May 19, 2010 at 12:25 PM.
Old May 19, 2010 | 01:02 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by olsoncor
People have been bashing the PnP kits offered and saying that the quality of the after market replicas are not as good as an OEM projector (But not specifically this one).

What I am saying is that I think your results look very good and I think people are hating on kits to hate.

I have ordered a GE and have heard that the DRL will be on in the dash if a PnP kit is used which is why I asked it you had similar results. I was not aware GD had none.

And the reason I asked what temp you were running was I wanted to know if you were running 4300k for best results as far as visibility.

I don't typically see anyone bashing on these kits, these aren't considered plug-n-play. The plug-n-play kits people typically bash are the ones in this ebay link.
HID BIXENON KIT H4-3 4300K 6000K BI-XENON HI/LO 12v 35w: eBay Motors (item 220605018432 end time May-19-10 18:07:40 PDT)

They have no cutoff whatsoever. I've seen some horrid glare from those. As for bulb temp, 4300 will offer the most usable light, but 5000k/6000k will offer a very nice color, anything beyond and you lose too much usable light. I previously ran a 6000k setup in my accord, and it was pretty worthless.
 
Old May 19, 2010 | 01:21 PM
  #115  
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Good to know. Thanks for your feedback. I think I will go with the 4300k and the apollo shroud.

Clarrification, There are no accenting marks of slices in the apollo shield right? Its just plain and smooth?
 
Old May 19, 2010 | 01:32 PM
  #116  
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They aren't completely smooth, there are some decent pictures on theretrofitsource.com under shrouds. They've got a number of options to chose from, those just happened to suit the look I was going for.
 
Old Jun 22, 2010 | 11:19 PM
  #117  
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has anyone figured out how to keep the DRL's?
 
Old Jun 23, 2010 | 11:17 AM
  #118  
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Do you even have DRL's?
 
Old Jun 23, 2010 | 11:39 AM
  #119  
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I really don't think you want to keep DRL's with hid's, DRL's only put a percentage of power to the ballast, and this could end up frying them. You could always run independent fogs rather than DRL's.
 
Old Jun 23, 2010 | 02:03 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by gd3vbp
I really don't think you want to keep DRL's with hid's, DRL's only put a percentage of power to the ballast, and this could end up frying them. You could always run independent fogs rather than DRL's.
If you have a wiring harness for the HID to draw power directly from the battery, then the ballast won't be affected. The only question then is, at what level does the relay need to receive before it sends power to the ballast.
 



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