Hello again guys!
It's been a long time since I visited this forum, and I'm glad to see that it's still as awesome as I left it two-three years ago!

Back in 2009, I ordered some HID lights:
H4 Standard Bi Xenon HID Xenon Conversion Kit

And performed an installation of them and they worked great!
However, after about 30 minutes or so of prolonged driving use - the right headlight will randomly shut off. If I turn off the lights and turn them back on, it comes back on just fine. Just to randomly shut off again.
I thought it was a faulty ballast, so I RMA'd it and got a new one. But the problem persisted and I just dealt with it for some time.

When I moved to California shortly after, I went to the dealership and was told that my battery was next to death and they swapped it out with a new one under warranty. (I got the Fit in 2007, so it was dead in two years?).

After this happened, the headlights didn't shut off for some time.
And the problem was presumably solved.

Now it's 2012, and I figure it's about time I try to solve the problem once and for all. I went to the dealership for maintenance again and they said my battery was once again close to death.
I'm not against buying a new battery - but I want to make sure it's not going to just get sapped out again.

So has anyone else had any similar experiences?
Is the stock battery just not enough to maintain the electricity required for the HIDs?

I'm also using dome and trunk LED lights, stock iPod system.
Just to add to the modifications that could cause power draws.

And if anyone knows things about electricity and such - how do I go about troubleshooting these things?

Thanks again.

 

It is quite possible that you're drawing too much power.

Just how much stuff is ON while you're driving? On top of that, do you spend a lot of time in the car with stuff on, but the engine off?

One way of troubleshooting, just like in computers... put the car back to the way it was (stock) and see how it goes. If all is well, then you know it's something you changed. Obviously, this will take a lot of time, even if you measure the battery level yourself.

 

Really not a lot is on while I drive.
The dome and trunk lights aren't.
The iPod system is on, and I leave the iPod connected to it while the car is off.
But I would assume that there's some sort of switch to avoid that constantly drawing power.

I don't even use the air-conditioner!

I never keep my car on with the engine off, ever.
Unfortunately putting it back to stock would be a little more difficult than I want to do right now. Hopefully keeping it as a last resort.

 

run your AC, it forces the alternator to come on more often.

but, whether that helps or not, i don't know.

 

For about $5 get an alternator/battery checker that gets plugged into the cig lighter. You can monitor the voltage under various conditions. When you're operating a big load you should get a reading about 14.3+- volts, indicating a charge. After running for a while, turn off everything, then just turn the ignition on to see if you are maintaining a constant 12.3 volts+-.

As for batteries, my 09 battery went belly up in 6 months, so 2 years is relatively much better.

 

ok. I had to bring up this thread, since i'm currently having similar problem.

After driving for some time, my left HID will start to flicker. If i turn it off, and then turn it on again. it will comes on allright for some time, then it will start to flicker again.

I read above that it is something to do with battery. While I hope it is, is there a way to be sure when the battery is near to death? I checked in the battery peep hole, and the color indicates it is allright. the voltage is fine as well. Anything else I can check to ensure it is the battery creating this problem before I buy a new one?

 

ive never had luck with hid kits...for the most part they are all the same made in china crap.

to eleiminate problems as much as possible....
install a relay harness and double check all your wiring connections. solder wire connections.
if you still have problems, ditch the kit. get some used OEM ballasts from a car. i prefer d2s denso ballasts from lexus/toyota becuase of their size. they will run you about $150 for the pair. also pick up D2S -> AMP adapter. wire these ballasts to your relay harness and they will last teh life of your car without giving you a problem.

 

In support of NIGHTHAWKSI.

The culprit is the HID kits. NOT THE BATTERY...

Some circuit breakers can sense a high-current condition and disconnect the circuit temporarily. They automatically reconnect the circuit after it cools down. If the high-current condition still exists, they trip again, and the cycle repeats. This action is ideal for the headlight circuit, which must not turn off permanently.

In a Self-resetting circuit breaker, a bimetal strip acts as a movable contact. Under normal current, the bimetal strip remains cool and straight, and the contact remains closed. When a problem exists in the circuit, high current through the strip causes overheating. As the circuit breaker heats up, the high expansion metal in the bimetal strip expands more than the low-expansion metal, making the strip warp, or bend. This opens the contacts in the circuit breaker. With no current, the circuit wiring and the bimetal strip cool to a temperature that is safe for circuit operation. The bimetal strip regains its original shape, closing the contacts and restarting current flow again.

 

This will save you a lot of Headaches,.........
HID, LED, COB or ANY new headlight replacements usually need a '' conversion kit '' via. Canbus Harness, Error canceller, resistor, capacitor, etc.... So, It is my personal advice to all. To be aware that although not every car requires one or more of these products. (Most) do....Usually a anti flicker canbus harness. LoL. By the way,..... I own a Mitsubishi Outlander.