Thanks. I was just about to ask if the flammability of these materials pressed up against the wiring harness can pose a problem.

So they sell non-flammable batting material @ Walmart? And also, when you guys are stuffing the rear wheel wells and tail light assemblies, do you just remove the access panel and stuff like crazy? Or do you pop everything out (the entire plastic piece) and put it back together. The DIY seems to suggest the former, but i am unclear.

 

the batting i got from walmart was fire-retardant. i simply pushed as much as i could into the wheel wells. (thats what i did anyways) i didnt use as much in the tail light assemblies (was kinda wary about this area). i had leftover batting so i put the remaining batting under the spare tire (out of curiosity). i did notice the reduction in noise. inspired, now im planning to apply raammat and ensolite to the wheel wells & cargo area & will need to pull the panels/trim.

 

a stupid question...where can i find a rubber gasket?

 

Went to Walmart and got some of the batting myself. Seems this DIY mod is worth the few bucks. Been to a couple other places, workers said none of it is really flame "proof" but as long as it states it meets flamibility requirements things should be ok. The flame retardant stuff can take heat but not literal open flame too well....from what I was told.

 

I bought the stuff that said fire retardant or fire resistant, i'm not sure exactly what the label says.

but when i got home i took my lighter to some of it and it did not burn in open flame, when the flame from the lighter hit it the material just shrunk down to a melted pulp, but never caught fire and never really burned. So i was reassured about putting back there.

 

That does sound reassuring. Especially considering our rides do not have open flames very often lol.

 

I wonder if it will make any difference since the gas tank is under the floorboard instead of being under the trunk.

While flammability is a concern, noxious gas emission is also dangerous, especially if you're stuck in the car after an accident. I wonder if this sort of thing is regulated in the auto industry. I know that in building design, there are riser and plenum ratings to address these concerns.

Here's a link for people taking panels off and have any other technical info needs. Some of it doesn't apply to the US model, but seems to be accurate for panels.


http://www.hondafitjazz.com/technical.htm

 

The batting you guys are using is what you usually put inside your subwoofer enclosure. What you really want to use inside those filler areas is "high-density foam". This can be found at a fabric/foam store. It comes in different thicknesses and is cut to different overall sizes. You can double fold it and squish it into place. It kills airborne sound that you are trying to address much better than batting. It's more expensive than batting. More results always cost more.

As far as how much sound deadening you need, I can't recall but I did take down notes on the weight that I added to my Fit.

Outside front door skins 12 lbs total
Inside front door skins 6 lbs total
Outside rear door skins 7.4 lbs total
Inside rear door skins 3.2 lbs total
Rear right quarter panel 5.2 lbs
Rear left quarter panel 4.2 lbs
Tirewell, area around the tirewell 8.4 lbs
Roof/Ceiling 10.4 lbs
Front and rear seat area floors 18.4 lbs
Rear hatch 2.6 lbs
Total Dynamat 77 lbs
Dullness in your finger tips, Priceless!

 

Wow!...That's pretty comprehensive!...Nice! Is the "Tirewell..." area you mentioned for the rear tirewells only? Did you do any kind of sound-deadening for the front tirewell? What were your results?...is it super quiet?

haha..."dullness in your fingertips..." I had the same feeling (or loss of feeling) from pressing my RAAMmat flat in the cargo area & doors. Still gotta do the front & rear floors.

Hmmm...interesting. Gotta try the high-density foam. Thx.

 

The problem with the front footwells is there is factory pad/damping there as shown in the next two pictures. You really want to keep this because it is formed for used with the factory carpet. I was able to add simple dyna as shown under the pad but that's it. At some point the carpet will not go back properly.





The front footwells have some of the most noise in the car. The front doors and the rear tirewell are the other noisiest areas.

 

The car is significantly quieter. I wish I had the time to do some SPL and frequency measurements. When I picked up the car a year ago, it went straight to the tint shop for windows and front end protection. Then to the shop for the stereo. With less than 100 miles on it, the car had nothing but the dashboard left. It was really cool, just like you would see on TV. You could see the airbags in the ceiling and I'm wondering, wow, I put $3500 down, $xxx a month for x years and my car is stripped. I'm thinking, I better get this shit put back together, and fast.

STOCK:


PREMIUM DYNA added keeping the front factory padding in place:


Here I added padding in the area in front of the rear seats. I almost didn't get the trim that the seat snaps down into the floor back in place. Honda didn't allow for any extra thickness in the carpet area. Same with the sill panels along the sides by the doors. With all the extra wiring in the car, the didn't want to stay in place either.

 

Thanks for the pics & info radareclipse!! It'll help when I do my front/rear floors.

So...you pulled out the the driver & passenger-side factory padding (where the brake/accel pedal are and just below the glove-box floor area)...then added dyna to it...and replaced it as your pics show below? Thx again.

 

Yes, the padding pulls right out as you can see. It's pretty solid. Then put it back after adding some damping underneath. Up against the firewall there isn't any real access to add any there. It's a great benefit when your done.
When I first got the car, I wanted to have a carpet set made up from Mercedes carpet. (I've had a few cars with stereo systems in them and had the trunk done in MB carpet). Once I helped pull the car apart, I could see the custom carpet was going to cost more than I wanted to spend. I didn't think I would do the Alcantara suede interior thou either and I did it. At some point, I will have some floor mats done in MB carpet. I already have the material.

 

The foam was suggested instead of the batting but for the price I figure go cheap for now. Tell ya what, quite pleased with the results. Bought a 10lb box of flame-retardnt batting($15)...way super easy to use and soft lol. Stuffed both sides where the access for the taillamps are. Pushed it up and down and back any which way I could til I could push no more in. Decklid is full (took off tailgate trim and loaded up). Then stuffed batting into bags and stuck em in and around spare tire n well. Stuck in the bags so in case I need my spare the batting is easier to handle and less messy. Fast cheap and easy mod. with good results!

 

Thanks a bunch radareclipse! BTW...among other things, I-spy 2 speakers on your door. Your interior looks really nice. ...driving in style.

 

Thanks. I'm bumpin' in style. Front speakers are JL C5-650 components. No rear speakers. Subs are 13W3's.

 

I understand how to isolate the rear of my Fit, however I still don't understand how to get the material in under the front of the console? Any furthur explanation would be greatly appreciated. Pictures would be phenomenal. Thanks.

 

Are you talking about the stuff that is pictured in post #50 on top of the Dynamat? One is pictured with a yellow underside, the other one is black. Those pieces are factory sound absorption material. They lift out easy enough and in tack and then you can lay some sound deadening material of choice down on the floor in front of the front seats. Then place these factory pieces back down over the deadening stuff you added. Adding some material up front really helps a lot in killing sound. Also doing the front doors makes a real difference.

 

I may feel more comfortable with taking my car apart if there were pictures on how exactly to do it, or maybe a thorough explanation on how to disect it without doing damage or not being able to put it back together. I understand, say, stuffing the pillow batting in the nooks in the back, however if I'm not sure about doing anything like this in the front, say, under the console?

I really appreciate anything you guys could explain further. Thanks!

 

It's pretty much already explained. I got a service manual from helminc.com; it cost maybe $75-100, I can't remember. If you haven't removed panels and such before, it might not be the best project for you. I remember getting a special tool to remove or disconnect the passenger front seat belt away from the seat. It's been a year since I did it. I'll probably start a new thread breaking down the doors and deadening those.