Great post Sid! I enjoyed it and I own a tint shop.
Most of the customers don't even ask about the brand of the film we use. They just want it dark. So we actually ask what they want and also tell them about clear tint which blocks the heat w/o the dark tint.

I don't suggest expensive film at all. There are very good inexpensive films which will look just as good and last just as long so I steer them away unless they absolutely want it. The brands we carry are Suntek, Solar Gard, Madico, Llumar. Most popular being Suntek, which is on my 07 Fit. Because it's economical and has manufacture's lifetime warranty. Make sure your installer use the film he said he will use, because it's very easy to say one thing and do the other. I have known some installers to actually admit to buying films from Walmart and believe me you don't want those.

We do computer cut our films and so we do get some people buying that locally, but I usually see them coming back for additional cut because they messed up. I don't recommend doing it yourself, unless you will be doing lot more cars. You need to buy different equipments and it's for sure you will make mistakes. There are lot of installation videos in Youtube which can be helpful. With right equipment and patience it could work out.

If you need to remove old tint, just get a steamer and slowly peel it off. That's what we do. With the heat and moisture, old adhesives loosen up.

If you do buy precut tints, just know that they aren't heat shrunken. I couldn't belive some ebayers stating that they are heat shrunked. In order to properly shrink the film, it needs to be put on the window of the vehicle being tinted because what shrinking does is shaping the tint according to the window curvature. So unless they have same vehicle to shrink on no way and they have cut for all the cars...

For the beginner, shrinking can be the most difficult part. It is very easy to crease the film while removing the fingers on the film as heat is applied.

Hope this will help. I didn't think I'd write this much.

 

Well I'm finally tinted. I won't bore you with pix as its old news around here for most to get tint. 35% tint all around. Yay 4 me!

I've got other mods in the works so I'll do a shoot or something once most of its done.

 

35% all around. paid 245 +tax

chose non-metallic suntek mid-grade stuff. lifetime warranty

the installer said people were complaining about cell phone interruption and poor radio reception after using tints with metallics

as if my radio reception needed to be any worse. thank God for aux input!

very good job on the install. ready to roll down after 3 days

 

Just got MzFit tinted with 20% reflective 50% tinted metal film installed was $140.00 i have a verison cell .....no probs. and as for the radio, the antenna in still on the roof and gets good reception....

 

I'm buying a used 08' Nighthawk Black Pearl Fit and I want to get the windows tinted. I'm in California and I'm hoping for some advice on how to tint the windows and stay legal. What I'm worried about is having the front windows be too much lighter than the back windows due to the tinting law.

I believe it's 70% in the front and anything on the rest?

If anyone has and advice on what tint to get so it blends well and still looks cool/provides some privacy, it would be much appreciated. If there are pictures somewhere that I can reference, that would be great.

Even better, if anyone has a recommended tinting shop in the LA area (Westside preferred...), let me know.

Thanks!

 

I believe it is illegal to have any tint on the front windows in California.

 

You seem to be an expert on the tint subject so I'll ask you this. I had my 2009 fit tinted all around except the little windows. After everything dried and all, I tried all the windows and now the driver's window makes a loud clunk when it reaches the top and closes. The dealer blames the tint/tinter on the problem. I can't see how such a thin addition would do any harm but they say 'we don't know what the installer may have damaged or what he may have dropped into the door so we can't warrantee it.'

What's your opinion on what may have happened to make the clunk?

PS I paid $100 for all four windows at a small shop in Hermosa Beach, CA. There are tint shops everywhere.

 

No expert on tinting, but did have my 2010Sport done and there's no real way a tint job is going to adversely effect a power window. Tinting stresses nothing. I watched to whole process from computer cutting to final wiping - but then again you never know.

Try to pinpoint where the clunk sound comes from. More than likely it's down behind the door panel - inside the door.

Go back to the dealer and tell them you want to see with your eyes what's making the clunk and why and have it fixed. If it turns up that the tinter dropped his blade down inside the door then you go after him for the $$'s. If not then warranty repair is in order. It's going to mean the dealer service needs to pull/replace the door panel and fix whaz-up.
K_C_

 

You should make the dealership prove to you that it's the tint that caused the problem. If they can't prove that the tint (either the film, or something that happened during application) is the issue, it should be covered under warranty.

 

I guess there's no way short of taking the panel off to figure this out. Thanks for all the input. I'll get on it.

 

Has anybody heard of any "fade" tints? I'd like for my front windows to go from 0% around the rear view mirrors to 35% at the back of the window in a smooth transition. I'm guessing no such thing exists. Any knowledge would be appreciated!

 

I never heard of it but I have to caution you about tinting the front door windows. I did mine at a nearby shop and after it was done, the driver's window went up with a clank or clunk. Apparently they screwed up something in the lift mechanism. When the window goes up, the door sill seems to pull back a bit and then when the window hits the top, the door sill slams shut against the window. The tint was done cheaply by someone not there anymore. They may have slid a tool down between the window and the sill and messed something up inside.

They only charged $100 to do the four main windows not tailgate or small windows. Now I'll have to pay the dealer to fix it.

 

Do you mean something that looks like this:

 

Not exactly. In sunglasses the effect I would like is called gradient tint. I'd like the front door windows to fade from no tint by the rear view mirrors (front end) to 35 (max allowed in missouri) at the back part of the front window. More than likely the product/effect I want does not exist. Any ideas on acheiving this effect would be appreciated. I don't want several steps in tint. I want the "fade" effect to be gradual.

 

I've seen gradient around. Go to a few local tint shops. Ask around, it can be done, only I would go easy on drvr/pass windows. Local/State PD usually doesn't like it.

What I've seen is a gradient metallic tint, not sure a typical tint can be done. Police really don't like reflective window tints in cars - really hard to see into.

 

I want the gradient effect to darken as it goes toward the rear of the front window (not top to bottom). I didn't want anything gawdy. I wanted to stay in gray/charcoal spectrum too. cops should be fine if I stay with the 35% (or above) limit as stipulated in Missouri law. I googled this for a while and got very little so I think I'm wanting a nonexistent product.

 

I posted this in another thread, but just found this thread and thought I should add it...paid $195 (after coupon) in Syracuse, NY

 

Looks great.

 

35% formulaone tints all around with lifetime warranty on work and tints from umbra

 

how much i might have to stop by and get it done looks nice i also want 35% all around