has anyone tried one of these and do they work... thanks

 

Falls more under the modifications category rather than ICE

You have a lot of reading to do;
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...le-thread.html

Without re-animating this issue (has been beat to death) basically as it stands now there is yet to be an independently tested result and people are divided on if they work or not.

 

i was looking at a stablizer for my audio amps. that would be ice?

 

no one uses that in the ICE world...

it sound like a capacitor?

why not just get a bigger better battery..higher output alternator...bigger wire sizes....

 

why would you not want something that kept the voltage stable.bigger wire,big battery,and large alt. means better current. i am new to car audio,but not new to audio. it just seams the more you can do to keep your amps. happy the better.. i am running three amps one digital for subs and two class AB for front and rear...the ele. in my fit is not the best for hi end audio, but i try to do the best i can....if you know something that will help i am all about that.....thanks for responding....storm

 

i dont know?
if it were useful..im sure people that does car audio competition...would use it?
from all the systems i seen and i been in the car audio scene for a while..i dont know everything..but i know a good handful.....i never seen a stablizer before....
or unless its there but they just dont talk about it..than i dont know?

 

i am always amazed that you can get as good as sound as people do in a car.. my back ground is in touring audio and recording studio..i don't want to compete in car audio just want great toons...i was blowen away by all the car audio stuff.it has come a long way sence the last time i looked....what i have sounds good but i think it can be better.as i stumble through car audio world i am learning alot....people like you help ...thanks storm

 

hand one on my hatch, i think it was more for looks than anything...

 

The stabilizer you are looking at is more of a gimmicky power making device for the engine, not really specific to audio applications and the specs can vary from manufactures which leaves it in the air as to what they actually do.

The other big thing is you want to isolate your engine & car electronics as much as possible from your audio equipment for optimum sound quality; the installation location of this device is going to defeat that intent.

You can get much more affordable (and proven) devices for your audio. I would suggest you use a capacitor to give you a solid 14V power source at peak draws.

As for noise, you can use a ground loop isolator for your lines to pull any noise you might get from the engine out. Try to install it as close as possible to the amplifier so you don't get any other noise into the lines from outside sources.

They are hella cheap and you can get them anywhere.
Ground Loop Isolator - RadioShack.com

Another good way is to buy expensive insulated/isolated lines, they go a long way to helping reduce any interference that can get into them. The biggest thing is just makes sure your lines are running as far as possible from other operating car electronics and hot wires.