Constant Power to Power Windows
#1
Constant Power to Power Windows
Hey,
I know it's possible to have constant or temporary power to the power windows in the 01-08 Fits (or any car) and was wondering if anyone had a good sound solution to adding this without any sort of dangerous/halfass wiring.
I don't have the actual service manual, or else I think I could decipher how to go about it through the wiring diagrams, but I don't have to blow fuses all day tinkering with getting this to work. I figure it wouldn't be too much of a draw anyway for the motors to stay active and the buttons ready.
I had an idea of having it tied in with the dome light power, so that when you turned the car off and the dome light came on (in the mindset of sport models) that you'd have however long to roll up the windows and then once you shut the door (on a base obviously the power kills on the dome light) and on the sport until you lock your keyless entry, the dome light stays on.
I just don't like leaving the car on to roll up all the windows, and i don't like turning it off and the turning the key back to ACC to roll windows up .
What would be king is to just have the module that when you lock and set the alarm all the windows roll up. (but that obviously requires some aftermarket module and more work)
I feel that this is just a jumper scenario but like i said I don't have a wiring diagram to know how to do it correctly.
I know it's possible to have constant or temporary power to the power windows in the 01-08 Fits (or any car) and was wondering if anyone had a good sound solution to adding this without any sort of dangerous/halfass wiring.
I don't have the actual service manual, or else I think I could decipher how to go about it through the wiring diagrams, but I don't have to blow fuses all day tinkering with getting this to work. I figure it wouldn't be too much of a draw anyway for the motors to stay active and the buttons ready.
I had an idea of having it tied in with the dome light power, so that when you turned the car off and the dome light came on (in the mindset of sport models) that you'd have however long to roll up the windows and then once you shut the door (on a base obviously the power kills on the dome light) and on the sport until you lock your keyless entry, the dome light stays on.
I just don't like leaving the car on to roll up all the windows, and i don't like turning it off and the turning the key back to ACC to roll windows up .
What would be king is to just have the module that when you lock and set the alarm all the windows roll up. (but that obviously requires some aftermarket module and more work)
I feel that this is just a jumper scenario but like i said I don't have a wiring diagram to know how to do it correctly.
#2
If you have a multimeter you probably can do this your self. If you don't know what a multimeter is, you probably should not try this yourself.
That being said, take the door panel off so that you can access the contacts on the power window switch. You will be looking for DC voltage present on the switch when the car is on. This contact will need Voltage going to it to operate when the rest of the car is off. You'll basically want to provide it with the correct voltage.
On a 240sx I had before the Fit there was a transformer/ amplifier that was in line with the window switch. basically the Fuse panel only provides 5 v to the accesories and this transformer had to step up the voltage to 12 v for the window motors to operate.
Although I have taken the door panel off to install speakers i did not notice an amplifier, but I wasn't looking for it either.
Good luck.
That being said, take the door panel off so that you can access the contacts on the power window switch. You will be looking for DC voltage present on the switch when the car is on. This contact will need Voltage going to it to operate when the rest of the car is off. You'll basically want to provide it with the correct voltage.
On a 240sx I had before the Fit there was a transformer/ amplifier that was in line with the window switch. basically the Fuse panel only provides 5 v to the accesories and this transformer had to step up the voltage to 12 v for the window motors to operate.
Although I have taken the door panel off to install speakers i did not notice an amplifier, but I wasn't looking for it either.
Good luck.
#3
Um, I'm not sure what wires you're looking for, but I'm sure its there. As mentioned above me, just get a multimeter and tap stuff out. I would think that running a fused wire with constant power and put it into the pin on the harness that has accessory should do it.
On the aftermarket alarm note, that is exactly what I'm doing. I have a Viper 5701V with remote start and two way remotes. It has 8 Aux outputs on the alarm that can be used to do a number of things. They have a module called the 530T from Directed Electronics (the makers of Viper and many other alarm products) that allows for the control of the power windows. 1 module will control up and down for two windows, so you'd need 2 mods. It does also require the running of one wire into the door and to the harness for the windows, one on each door. These will let you do a number of things like have the windows roll up with arming, roll down with disarming, venting the windows at a certain temperature, and allowing you to roll down/up the windows from the remote.
It's a bit pointless for me to install them right now because our 1 month winter is coming up, but I'll do it as soon as I've ordered them and take some pictures. All of my coworkers have them in their cars, so it's really cool. They retail for around $100 per mod, but I've seen them for about $60 online. In my opinion, its the only way to go.
On the aftermarket alarm note, that is exactly what I'm doing. I have a Viper 5701V with remote start and two way remotes. It has 8 Aux outputs on the alarm that can be used to do a number of things. They have a module called the 530T from Directed Electronics (the makers of Viper and many other alarm products) that allows for the control of the power windows. 1 module will control up and down for two windows, so you'd need 2 mods. It does also require the running of one wire into the door and to the harness for the windows, one on each door. These will let you do a number of things like have the windows roll up with arming, roll down with disarming, venting the windows at a certain temperature, and allowing you to roll down/up the windows from the remote.
It's a bit pointless for me to install them right now because our 1 month winter is coming up, but I'll do it as soon as I've ordered them and take some pictures. All of my coworkers have them in their cars, so it's really cool. They retail for around $100 per mod, but I've seen them for about $60 online. In my opinion, its the only way to go.
#4
Lol,
I'm an automation tech so yes I know what a multimeter is, I use my Fluke everyday. My issue is more with needing a wiring diagram. I alreadystarted the above one time last week, testing the pin out looking for 5v-12v with power on, and got a 1/4 before deciding it was too random of a check, plus I'm a very tall guy with big hands and trying to manuever around that switch circuit board testing voltage is a pain. If no one gives me a scan from the helms manual I'll have to try again, but I'd really just like to know what the power pin is
Then I'll add an inline fuse and do it right from there to protect it.
Thanks for the input guys.
I'm an automation tech so yes I know what a multimeter is, I use my Fluke everyday. My issue is more with needing a wiring diagram. I alreadystarted the above one time last week, testing the pin out looking for 5v-12v with power on, and got a 1/4 before deciding it was too random of a check, plus I'm a very tall guy with big hands and trying to manuever around that switch circuit board testing voltage is a pain. If no one gives me a scan from the helms manual I'll have to try again, but I'd really just like to know what the power pin is
Then I'll add an inline fuse and do it right from there to protect it.
Thanks for the input guys.
#6
There is a big huge red wire with terminal on the bottom of the fuse block. Its full time power. Thats the one I used, then fed into window circuit
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ws-please.html
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ws-please.html
#7
Mine is an 09 Sport MT if it matters.
#8
Not trying to be a smartass, but are you aware that as long as you don't open the driver's door, the windows still have power, even with the key totally off? I'm sure this cuts out after some time, but I routinely turn my car completely off, then roll the windows up. As soon as you open the door, this feature is canceled.
Mine is an 09 Sport MT if it matters.
Mine is an 09 Sport MT if it matters.
Well then, your GE8 strikes against my GD3.
But since they aren't the same car like I said, I will need to find a solution that doesn't blow anything or drain unnecessary power.
SO while I'm doing that, enjoy your auto up/auto down, non lock stabbing, power ready door Honda chose to include on the 09 Fits to oddly spite the 2 model year Guinea pig GD owners.
#9
Sorry, I didn't see where you indicated your model type. That's why I mentioned mine, in case there were differences. Apparently there are.
To mimic the 09 functionality, something like this 12V time-delay relay might help. It energizes at application of a power signal, and holds a programmed time after removal of the power signal. The delay is adjustable, with different ranges depending on the model type. It has 30amp contacts.
Unfortunately, they cost about $70.
If you're up for doing some circuit work, here is a circuit that duplicates much of the above functionality, but will probably be cheaper given the discrete components.
To mimic the 09 functionality, something like this 12V time-delay relay might help. It energizes at application of a power signal, and holds a programmed time after removal of the power signal. The delay is adjustable, with different ranges depending on the model type. It has 30amp contacts.
Unfortunately, they cost about $70.
If you're up for doing some circuit work, here is a circuit that duplicates much of the above functionality, but will probably be cheaper given the discrete components.
#10
Aight
Lol, it's cool bro. I'm just messing with you cuz you have a GE and Honda finally woke up and did all the things to the fit it should have done before it even got here in 06. (minus a better 1.8 sohc setup at least)
Now that people have chimed in with options I'll persue this again
What about wiring to some dome light power?
This would be active once the ignition was off and kill once a door was reclosed...
Now that people have chimed in with options I'll persue this again
What about wiring to some dome light power?
This would be active once the ignition was off and kill once a door was reclosed...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
psycho
Fit Engine Modifications, Motor Swaps, ECU Tuning
1
06-11-2007 01:16 AM
RomeoJunior
Fit Interior Modifications
0
01-29-2007 05:15 PM