thanks , i really appreciate it alot.

so i honestly think that a double din won't be nessecary to get this setup up and running(maybe later in the future) i just cant see getting a dd w.o navi.

i read your build a few times fit4spl and i'm trying to find an alright single din that would work for running 2 amplifiers. for under 300. any rec's? everyone seems to be pioneer crazy this year and my kenwood i had in my 240sx was pretty good but annoying (having to set the eq everytime of use)

 

Alpine, CDA-117 is the current top end model and can be had on ebay for less than $300 new. However keep in mind CES (consumer electronics show) is going on, and the new units are being shown there, so within probably 1month those new units will be drop shipping to dealers, so two things will happen. The old units in model year, will be reduced for quick sales and the new ones will be available to buy as well.

There are also well known good/great models of alpines if you buy from a reputable person even used will do amazing for you such as my model. The CDA-9835, which is regarded as one of the best Alpine single din units in the past 7 years. They aren't easy to find but if you find one in good shape they can cost between $250 and $300 USED, yes you read that right. But they are worth EVERY penny, just do a little looking for the specs and you will see why.

A good place to buy GOOD used gear by people who appreciate car audio is; DIYMA.com - Car Audio Forum & 12 volt Community Board the classifieds are filled with awesome classic gear, amazing top end stuff you don't see in car audio stores and more. Good luck in your search for a HU!

 

thanks again. i researched your alpine after reading your build thread and it looks awesome. i'll wait till the end of jan and hopefully some 2010 models will have some sweet deals.

 

I have a single 15" in my GE (used to be in my GD) and some people say it's overkill, but i like it and thats all that matters to me. i'm running an old (late 90's) "audio art 120.2xe" amp and it hits hard enough to hurt if you want it to, i had the box built to specs way back when i had it in my show minivan (late 90's) with a $90 sub and it's still hitting over ten years later - i'm in no way a audio nut i just like a little bump from time to time, i like that three screws and it's out and i have all my space back, besides the box is only about 20w"x20d"x10" h (half of what it was in the minivan) i had two 15"s in it and 4 amps with all my other speakers (12)

good luck man you'll love it im sure!

 

thanks dude^

I was considering doing one 15"

but this 12 should be just as if not more powerfull.

supposedly if you get the fully loaded version( which i intend on doing) it can handle up to 5000watts :0

 

5000watts at a burp, not constant and you would need a lot of upgrades electrically to handle that amount of power anyway.

 

yea

as far as amps go

i'm actually going to underpower it with only 2000.

undecided as far as brands go but first and foremost i need to order the sub as there is a lonnng waiting period and start my sound deadning project

i'll be ordering :

edead 80mil in 120sqft
edead teklite? closed cell adhesive foam 120sq feet

i'm going to work my way back to front and leaving the doors for last so i can research a little more on a good small amp for the 6.5's and door panel removal and such. i'll be deadning my roof.

 

lots of pichas and shtuffz for all

 

2000W is just shy of 3HP worth of electrical energy, you can make a mean system for less and with cleaner output.

But I don't want to get into a debate about amp class and will leave that to the true audiophiles. I used to build my own home and car audio, but have been out of the game for a few years, so I may be behind the times.

 

i'm a newb at all this audio shtuff.

my last car was all multi-link/spherical/poly suspension and bracing.
i also did a motor swap from sohc auto to dohc 5-spd with full emissions delete and such.
then it was all about hellaflush big wheels with low offsets. i posted a picture of it in the new members area in my thread.

now i want to keep the fit stock and do a full audio build while improving ride quality with the deadning. my only regret from the s13 was when i did the audio i cheaped out on average components and such and blew all of them including 4 subs. this time i'm spending the coin and research to do the fit right and leave it be.

i sell motorcycle parts for a living via eBay and our website.

mapcycle.com for all the vintage British enthusiasts.

nichecyclesupply.com for classic/modern Japanese and the more obscure applications.

 

anyways...

looks like the edead80 and edeadv4(closed cell foam) is going to cost me 600 shipped :0

it's going to be worth it though.

i was looking at components and am concerned upon mounting depth and read a thread that the max depth is 77mm

i was looking at diamond audio for the 6.5's but still need to work out the depth concern and the proper spacing.

one last question... a 1inch tweeter will fit in the factory location of the sport if i used an adhesive or mounting behind it. i know the factory bracket is unuseable.

 

Factory tweeter mount IS usable, see my build again for reference as well for the depth of my Mids, they are beefy as get all. A simple mounting ring can fix the depth issue for a bit. As for amplifiers, as I said they have come a long way especially for sub bass, with the addition of Class D amplification.

 

fit4spl. i refrence your thread frequently, but the ge tweeters are dash mounted and my GD sport tweeters are door mounted. still the same? i'll reread your thread.

 

Oh, my bad forgot you have a GD, sorry :P

 

YouTube - Jessica's 2009 Honda Fit - 2 15"s

 

Box looks well made, dunno the ratings on the amp, however the amount of movement I see going on in that vid of the car/mirror and etc isn't that much. My 10's will practically shake the mirror to a point of no return. Again as I stated with 15s you are going to starve them for space without losing the backseat. And youtube videos of bass are just terrible unless you are showing flex, because you can't hear shiz!

 

i'm just posting them as a refrence for other individuals in the future looking to do something on the larger side.

it can be done.

this kids underpowered 18" sounds nasty in the lows in his ge

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Gbg7eVGjlE

 

My initial set up...



It looked cool and definitely hit hard, but it was WAY too much power for this car.

I now have a single 8 inch sub tucked away out of sight in the spare tire compartment. It sounds 110% better and is more than loud enough to turn some heads.

Just my two cents...

 

your car is very clean 2legit^ congrats.

i was pondering of just looking for a sweet craigslist deal setup of someones old 12's and just testing them out and upgrading to a large sub later.

i just love how the 15" or 18" as in the vids i posted hit those real low deep bass notes.

i had multiple sets of 2 12's ported and a 1000w in my older car and it was about the same size airspace wise. yea it hit hard, but would always flop when it came to the lows. iv'e never ever seen a 10" do that.

don't misunderstand me. 8-10's are perfect for sq and some kick.

regardless i'll be :

sound deadening in the next week or so.
shopping for components
shopping for a hu
running and upgrading all wires including my big 3
running a circut breaker identical to fit4spl's setup (awesome idear)
shopping for an amp ( possible a deal on hifonics)
considering a cap
then last but least i'll make the wonderfull sub choice.
- 2 12's
- 1 15"
- 1 18" would be cool like that dude had


but i'm still young(20) and love my deep slamming chest vibrating bass.

 

Size of sub has nothing to do with how low it will play. Enclosure is key, if you want low base tune to 33Hz roughly depending on the sub and it will drop it like it's hot. Yes corny reference but you get the idea.