Has anyone done a 15" sub in their gd?

i have an 08 sport mt and i want to do a full audio upgrade and am thinking of one of these three setups :

3 12's?
2 12's?
1 15?

just looking for some input.

i plan on putting in a pioneer double din and i'm still really confused why we can't upgrade our stock door speakers without spacers.

thanks all - Reece

 

maybe even 2X 15 inchers ?

 

You do not need big subs for big sound. You have to figure out the amount of airspace your car has. I had a 95 two door tahoe with 2 12" subs that were powered by a 340 watt amp. It was LOUD. Plus it isn't all about the woofers, it is about the quality of your power cables, and especially your amp. You can honestly have a perfectly loud and amazing quality set up using one 8 inch sub or one 10 inch sub. I wouldn't go bigger than a 12" and i wouldn't put more than two subs in the car. Just spend the money on a better amp.

 

i'm going to do 2 12's and a 1000w amp and cap like i had in my s13.

 

Because I am constantly reading about people having issues just trying to start in the winter on the stock battery and electrical system consider a battery location, bigger battery and atleast a 1.5Far or 2Far cap.

Some heavy gauge fine thread cable would be a good idea as well. Like 1-2ga Audio or Marine grade.

 

well, being in florida. i don't see me having any hard start issue's, but i will def be upgrading:

- larger or more powerfull optima yellow top battery? (i'm no battery expert) but in the stock location.

- thick gauge wiring
- not sure on cap size yet but i'll take your word for it
- edead
- 1000w amp ( fuse size is what matters)
- 2 12's (jl w0's?) in a regular ported box.
- upgraded hu. ( i wanted to go double din...but now not so much after seeing a 700 dollar price tag for the base model from pioneer , if i'm going to throw that much coin the damn thing better store all my music in the unit itself)


just a simple setup. i don't care about trunk space, but i want the regular enclosure so i can remove it easily if need be.

 

to the guy who is had the JLAUDIO fit..

i believe you have two w7 13.5inchers in there?

i'm considering on doing one of those and the JL 1000/1 amp to a idk what headunit or components yet.

i wish i could hear you opinions of that setup and possibly your setup.

 

If you know what you are doing you can make one GOOD 10" sub hit harder and sound better than any 12 or 15".

I would step outside of the fit forums on this question and do some research on car audio forums.

 

2 10's in a properly built and tuned ported box will destroy in a fit, there's really no need to go larger imo. However if you wanted to go bigger 2 12's will work in the fit also, going to 15's you are going to starve them for airspace unless you do only 1 and even then I would do the 10s over 1 15 personally.

 

i see^

any reccomendations on a GOOD 2 10's setup?

i was thinking, 2 jl w7 10's with a jl 1000-1 amp

edead the car

6.5's im not sure yet? (suggestions)

pioneer double din

?farad cap

megatron interstate 51r battery and some thick wiring for all.

 

after reading a little more, i guess the GD alternator, let alone the fit alternator sucks.

so maybe i'd be better off just getting this unit

JL Audio HO110R-W7 10" W7 Subwoofer loaded in a W7 H.O. Wedge Enclosure (HO110RW7)

and a matching amp and cap along with the megatron battery


unless there is a way to have the alt rebuilt for higher output?

 

Call these guys:
ALTERSTART Home Page

They may be able to find you a rewound alternator or a smaller pulley.. or both.

They don't have everything listed on the site, so call them. Thats how I found the 150A unit I have on my Laser vs. the stock 90A alt.

 

alright guys.

sooo i placed an order for one fi btl 12" sub 2000watt rms ($400 something) with a tuned at 32hz box.

amp? i'm not sure yet.

cap ? ( 2 farad)

on the fence of either the megatron interstate 51r battery or the optima yellow top 51r ? opinions?

thick wiring.

pioneer double or single din

scosche trim kit

edead

still not sure about which 6.5's or tweeters to run with amp?


and i have to figure out someway to bypass the ecu if i have the alternator upgraded.... hmmm any thoughts?

 

any audio experts please chime in. the last car all i did was cram 2 12's and a 1000watt amp and called it a day. this one i want to do right and focus on only audio.

 

I'm probably gonna go with one or two 12" kicker L7's. L7's have the cleanest kick right now, IMO.

 

kickers are nice for a the average person who just wants some bump at a ok cost.

i have no budget and plan on working with the audio on my fit all year.

fi seems to outshine in not only spl but sq. so i'l give the 12" btl a shot ($400) a piece and custom built to your specs.

 

Upgraded alternator is not a bad idea but is not always necessary. Amplifier technology today is miles ahead of what it was in the late 90s and early 00s where HO alternators were a necessity in any high wattage audio system. I personally have just under 2000Watts total in my Fit and I have no issue with light dimming or any other signs of electrical issues, and I still use the stock battery and stock alternator.

Proper wire size is a KEY to any installation, if you are doing a 1500watt or less sub amp, then a minimum IMO of 4AWG is necessary for power and ground. 1500W and up I simply just recommend doing 0AWG because 2AWG is generally not stocked by even high end car audio stores. Proper routing of wiring, proper connectors and crimping, as well as the proper battery terminals for your wiring will again all help. I use nothing but copper large scale ring terminals for my grounds and connections to the batter. These can be bought at pepboys or autozone if you don't have a electronics surplus store.

A cap is a band-aid to a badly installed and configured system. They are simply put a myth in the sense of they actually help. Now are there certain instances where they do help? Sure but that is a test and test and test situation, just simply putting one in because you think you need it will only add another component to the electrical portion of the audio system that may not be necessary.

The Fi Subs are amazing, Scott (the owner of Fi) also was the founder of RE before it was sold to USAmps. I know Scott personally, haven't spoken to him in a while but he has a drive to make the best subs he can and hes done it over and over. In fact, I was the first competitor in dB Drag in 2002 to use/qualify and compete at dB Drag finals with RE, using 2 RE SE 12's in my CRX. Amp wise it's a matter of opinion but do not skimp here, example when I was looking for a economy priced sub amp I bought a Crunch, Made by Maxxonics. Now I am sure there are plenty of people who have these amps and have ZERO problems, however my brand new 1500watt amp was a dud right out of the box. I returned it and bought a Factory Re-manufactured JBL 1200Watt sub amp, and it is a freaking beast for what it is (crown series jbl btw).

Mids and Highs are your ears, my suggestion is to make a compilation disc at home of some of your favorite tunes, and maybe some Classical and Jazz songs. Take the disc to some audio shops and while a sound room is NO way close to what it will sound like in your car, it can give you an indication if the Mids have too little bass, and say the tweeters are too tinny. I ended up using JBL GTI 6.5 components, they are beefy as hell in the bass range on the mid, and the tweets are crisp and clean not tinny.

Battery wise, Optima 100%. I have had several of these over the years and my last one lasted 2 comp cars and 8 years of abuse before it finally bit the dust. (Yellow top). As far as mid and highs amplification, if you are like me and don't care about the rear speakers, then just get a good quality 2ch amp for them. I use a 4ch and only 2chs of it are in use, JBL PX 300.4.

Overall you have a lot of options and choices to make. Be wise with your ears, your wallet and you will have a slamming system without paying too much and without taking too much effort to install.

 

thank you ^

so:

2000watt amp

0AWG wiring

grounding out the engine bay etc well with 0awg

1 12" fi btl built to "daily" specs

custom port tuned box 32htz as recommended by fi's website

i really like your jbl gti's and i might actually pick those up(going to do that test you suggested). with a small amp.

pioneer hu (still on the fence about the double din)

schoshe kit

rear tweeters added.

optima yellow top and some type of fuse and other necessary precautions(terminals,etc.)

IF IN DIRE NEED:
My absolute last thing would be to buy a new alternator and have it redone inside.

 

i'll post pics of the whole build including my edead install etc.

 

Cool, glad I could offer some help, look forward to seeing your build!