I've been loking for something and that's the best idea I've heard yet!
Post something so we can see it!

 

cool idea. Only thing I could see as a negative is the potencial for rattling from the rear tag/ hatch trim on the outside of the car. Then you have the issue of routing the wiring to the sub itsself... Any pics of the prototype?

 

BenDF is no longer participating on FitFreak.net. See this thread.

 

I am glad I did not sink any money into this yet. I would be interested
in a sub box that did not eat my storage space. I have a buy order
out on alibaba for something like this, I was going to buy 50. they
would go in the left rear cargo area. The other place I would suggest
as a sub location in above the right rear cargo, with the storage pocket
used as a well for the sub magnet, it keeps floor space that way.
Other possibilty, is a console subwoofer, even tho it could only take an
8. I could use some help on this. I have a couple of bites on alibaba, but
I would love to hand this off to somebody that knows more than me,
cuz I don;t know much.

 

What about trying something like this, this Jazz is owned by one of the guys at our club in the Philippines.

 

Something like that would be EXACTLY what I'd like to have...but that would take a great amount of skill (or a great amount of cash) to make. Looks great tho!

 

That's a shame that he doesn't want to post any more. It seems like he had a pretty good idea with that hatch enclosure.

 

I doubt this will help but im going to build an enclosed amp rack that covers the entire rear of the car and will be about 8"-10" high.. Im going to mount my sub box on top of that..

Since the amprack is enclosed I can just remove the sub box if I need to put cargo back there and just sit the stuff on top of the amprack.. I will also be able to just lift the amprack up if I need to get to the spare tire..

Im going to be starting this setup next week so ill take pics as I go and post them in another thread..

 

Any chance this Fit hatch-box can fit in an Alpine 10" sub, they are pretty deep.
EDIT: Opps, didn't realize he was gone! Cool Idea though!

I had a Jeep just like that!!
Here is a pic of my sub/space solution I used. Might give a few of you guys out there some idea's. I was able to use a standard 3 prong household plug (remote, power, ground) to make it easy to pull out when I needed all the space. I used 1.25" thk MDF board, was like 150 lbs, the capacitor is mounted on the back and the amp was wired into the top of the box. This system was crazy loud, I couldn't breath if I cranked it and my biggest problem was blowing the 100amp mainline fuse. Wasn't a big deal about the fuse, I couldn't turn it up that loud anyway without feeling bass sickness and unlike my last car I didn't enter any SPL comps with this setup.

The red lines were used for some other things like processors & secondary amps at one time. I left them in so I could wire them back in easily.

 

It's not good to just connect a 12v directly to a capacitor without charging it first. That will diminish it's capacitance and your capacitor will eventually turn into an over priced paper weight.

I can't help but comment about that Jeep in the cardomain page is wicked ghetto. The speakers on the floor and WalMart amps were some of my favorites. I hope that someone can get through to that kid one day.

 

How would you suggest charging it without connecting it to a 12V source? Do you mean charging it off a low amp source first? The cap is constantly discharging and charging rapidly off the high amp 12V-16V power source during use, I don't understand how you are hurting it by hooking it up initially? All caps have a life expectancy anyway, I have owned 4 in total so far, I usually get a solid 6 to 7 years out of them. Actually I have had the Rockford one in the pic for about 5 years and it still works like new, mind you I havn't run the sh!t out of it like my other ones.

lol, yeah that car-domain install isn't really to my liking. I just replaced all my stock speakers in the Jeep with Pheonix Gold ones... never had a mid/high range problem after that. I swear by PG's speakers, I love their amps & adore their power accessories... but boy do I dislike their subs!

 

Its best to use a resistor to charge them initially.. The resistor will slowly charge them and only takes a minute or two..

 

Still, when I use monitor top capacitors you can literally see they fully charge and discharge in a matter of a second or two, often hundreds of times in one go. How are you saving the cap by charging it slowly over a few minutes initially if you are going to subject it to that kind of abuse later? What size resistor do you use to charge, 20 ohm?

I know with high output rechargable batteries the initial charge is important, but that is totally different material & structure composition. Is the initial hot charge all that critical on a capacitor? You have any links to some good reads on this topic?

Learn something new everyday I guess Cheers!