Tein Basic Coilovers
#42
08-25-2007, 07:36 AM
my tires are deff. the problem. im switching to some yokohama parada 205 45/16 but i havent completely made up my mind on the paradas. any suggestions on a good sticky tire in that size would be greatly apreciated.
#43
08-27-2007, 12:01 PM
I had the same problem with the driveshaft popping out of the drivers side. What a bitch to get that thing in. I think the total install took me 2 hrs, with 1 hr alone tryin toget that damn driveshaft to go back in.
One weird thing after I finished my coilover install was the ABS indicator light on the dash came on.
I tried checking for any loose connectors, resetting by disconnecting battery and checking fuses, but no luck.
Anyone have the same issues or is it just my bad luck.
If I can't find a fix, I'm gonna have to take it into the dealership and argue with them about it being covered under warranty.
Ouch! $650 that hurts. Seems pretty dumb they don't sell just the boots. Sorry to hear about that.
One weird thing after I finished my coilover install was the ABS indicator light on the dash came on.
I tried checking for any loose connectors, resetting by disconnecting battery and checking fuses, but no luck.
Anyone have the same issues or is it just my bad luck.
If I can't find a fix, I'm gonna have to take it into the dealership and argue with them about it being covered under warranty.
Ouch! $650 that hurts. Seems pretty dumb they don't sell just the boots. Sorry to hear about that.
ive told this story in other threads but here it goes again. i got the tein basic damper kit. the rear install took about 45 minutes. super easy. the front passenger side went in without a hitch too BUT when it came to the driver side, i didnt support the control arm when i took out the stock strut and the driveshaft came out of the socket. after about two hours and 4 different people trying to get it back it, it magically went back in. other than some rubbing issues, my car looked and handled f*cking awesome!! but i hadnt installed my j's racing roll center adjusters. so we get the control arm off, put it under the press to pop the stock ball joints out and i bent the control arm!! it wasnt too bad so i installed the roll center adjusters and putting back on the drivers side control arm, THE DRIVESHAFT CAME OUT AGAIN!! so after about an hour of twisting and pushing, i get it back in. take it around the block and fall in love with my suspension. i take off the wheel to raise the suspension a little to deal with the rubbing and there is grease everywhere. i put a tear in the driveshaft boot and honda doesnt sell just the boot so i had to buy the whole driveshaft. ugh. a $650 mistake. ANYWAYS, my car is at a suspension shop right now getting a new control arm and a new front axle. there goes my spoon lsd money. sigh.
#44
08-27-2007, 12:59 PM
I hate to say it, but you got jacked. Inboard boot set is pt# 44017-S5A-000 and Bernardi Parts has it for $19.84; outboard boot set is pt# 44018-SAB-N20, price is the same.
#45
08-27-2007, 01:55 PM
#46
08-27-2007, 10:24 PM
Glad I could be of help though, I'd hate to see someone waste good money when it's not needed.
#48
08-29-2007, 12:03 AM
my buddy was gonna buy a fit because he liked mine so much, then he saw how much trouble the driveshaft was and he decided against it. thats how bad it is.
#51
10-12-2007, 08:40 AM
Tein Basics installed. The driveshaft popping out affair happens when you do your second front coilover. The kit comes with shortened endlinks and causes a pre-load on the sway bar. Before removing any strut bolts remove the sway bar endlinks first and there should be no problems. I also popped out the driveshaft and I used to suspension and brakes for a living.
#52
11-10-2007, 01:47 PM
i just tried installing my suspensions today, and i couldnt get the front strut cos i needed an alan key to hold the studs to loosen the bolts.
i tried using the allan key i had but totally twisted the key to the other side. i guess i need a stronger allan key.... anyone have any ideas?
oh and how do i prevent the driveshaft from popping out?
i tried using the allan key i had but totally twisted the key to the other side. i guess i need a stronger allan key.... anyone have any ideas?
oh and how do i prevent the driveshaft from popping out?
#53
11-10-2007, 03:21 PM
i just tried installing my suspensions today, and i couldnt get the front strut cos i needed an alan key to hold the studs to loosen the bolts.
i tried using the allan key i had but totally twisted the key to the other side. i guess i need a stronger allan key.... anyone have any ideas?
oh and how do i prevent the driveshaft from popping out?
i tried using the allan key i had but totally twisted the key to the other side. i guess i need a stronger allan key.... anyone have any ideas?
oh and how do i prevent the driveshaft from popping out?
The popping out driveshaft is caused because the Tein gives gives you shortened sway bar endlinks. When you install the coilovers on one side of the car and install the new endlink onnthat side. It leaves a pre-load on the sway bar since the endlink on the other side is longer. All you have to do is when you go to remove the second Strut from the car is to disconnect the endlink BEFORE unbolting the strut bolts.
I also has a little trouble with the alan key issue. If yours twisted it musta been pretty cheap. Go buy a Craftsman professional allan key set and you'll have no issues.
#54
11-10-2007, 04:32 PM
The popping out driveshaft is caused because the Tein gives gives you shortened sway bar endlinks. When you install the coilovers on one side of the car and install the new endlink onnthat side. It leaves a pre-load on the sway bar since the endlink on the other side is longer. All you have to do is when you go to remove the second Strut from the car is to disconnect the endlink BEFORE unbolting the strut bolts.
I also has a little trouble with the alan key issue. If yours twisted it musta been pretty cheap. Go buy a Craftsman professional allan key set and you'll have no issues.
I also has a little trouble with the alan key issue. If yours twisted it musta been pretty cheap. Go buy a Craftsman professional allan key set and you'll have no issues.
i will do dat, yeah dat was a very cheap allan key, so im gonna do all dat.
when u mean endlinks is dat the same at the stabilizers links?
#56
11-12-2007, 01:35 PM
When my driveshaft popped i guess the ABS sensor came loose and there was some damage to the sensor.
I took it into the dealership and had to pay $330 for a new sensor.
If you can read above and make sure to follow the tips so yoru drivesahft doesn't pop out.
Trust me, it's a pain in the arse.
I took it into the dealership and had to pay $330 for a new sensor.
If you can read above and make sure to follow the tips so yoru drivesahft doesn't pop out.
Trust me, it's a pain in the arse.
#57
11-12-2007, 05:02 PM
Guys!! i finally installed my coilovers, this my first time doing this and man!!! was it a PITA !!!
especially unloosening them bolts! i guess the guys who installed my Tanabe lowering springs before really tightened it hard.
Anyways due to insufficient tools it took my buddy and i, over 7 Hours!!!!! cos i had to run around the area looking for tools to open something. Yeah 7 hours!!!.... started at like 8pm to around 4 am.
Other than dat my ride handles really well much better than the lowering springs. and looks sooooooooo much better.
but i do have an issue there is abit of thumping sound in the rear coilovers when i make sharp turn.
Now thanks to all u guys for the advice of supporting the driveshaft, thank God it didnt pop out nor did i get any ABS light issues.
Thanks InJundon and All FitFreaks for ur advice and help!!! very much appreciated.
i will post pics soon . thanks to all
especially unloosening them bolts! i guess the guys who installed my Tanabe lowering springs before really tightened it hard.
Anyways due to insufficient tools it took my buddy and i, over 7 Hours!!!!! cos i had to run around the area looking for tools to open something. Yeah 7 hours!!!.... started at like 8pm to around 4 am.
Other than dat my ride handles really well much better than the lowering springs. and looks sooooooooo much better.
but i do have an issue there is abit of thumping sound in the rear coilovers when i make sharp turn.
Now thanks to all u guys for the advice of supporting the driveshaft, thank God it didnt pop out nor did i get any ABS light issues.
Thanks InJundon and All FitFreaks for ur advice and help!!! very much appreciated.
i will post pics soon . thanks to all
Last edited by azkikersfit; 11-12-2007 at 05:05 PM.
#59
12-04-2007, 01:07 AM
re-tighten your rear shock bolts on top (in the car) and lube up the rubber spring perches with some white grease. It's very common for some noise when using the OEM rubber spring seats.
If your getting a clunking" noise and it's not the rear upper shock bolts, Check to make sure that you twisted the rear springs into the rubber isolators and "clipped" the isolators into the holes to keep them from twisting around.
If your getting a clunking" noise and it's not the rear upper shock bolts, Check to make sure that you twisted the rear springs into the rubber isolators and "clipped" the isolators into the holes to keep them from twisting around.
#60
12-04-2007, 04:25 AM
ok i got rid of the clunking sound, i just drove around for awhile and i guess the rear spring just fixed itself.
No more sound, only when i come off a speed bump at higher speed there is a tiny bit of rubbing cos i think set em up really low. But if i drive on bump at about 5 - 10km/h then there is no rubbing.
My car handles great now and i just installed the J's racing front strut bar and its even stiffer. the handling is awesome!!
No more sound, only when i come off a speed bump at higher speed there is a tiny bit of rubbing cos i think set em up really low. But if i drive on bump at about 5 - 10km/h then there is no rubbing.
My car handles great now and i just installed the J's racing front strut bar and its even stiffer. the handling is awesome!!
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