Just some interesting numbers on the springs for each product (not including dampers). It gives you an interesting picture of how each manufacture believes the Fit handles best. Tanabe has the highest spring rate in the front... yet the softest in the rear (except the pathetic T1R-S version 1's which look like stock springs... lol)

Tanabe GF210:
3.4Kg Front / 5.0kg Rear

Skunk2:
3.1kg Front / 6.2Kg Rear

T1R S:
2.9kg Front / 2.5Kg Rear

Swift Sport:
3.0kg Front / 5.6Kg Rear

T1R S 2.0:
3.2kg Front / 6.1Kg Rear

 

It happen to me when I auto crossed, I was getting better time than bmw,porsche,subaru, and many other cars. Hey sugarphreak I think we both have the same set-up. (in mods)

 

Cool ^^

It is kind of fun watching people freak out about how fast the Fit is... lol

Looks like the winning combination for suspension

 

from what i have read the fit should have more body roll when lowered on coil overs...i think. i read the description of the j's racing RCA. it claims that lowering the car will increase the roll. i think when buying coil overs you should really consider RCA. i don't know maybe someone who knows about more should know

 

It wasn't just the roll, the suspension felt pretty soft to me.

There could be something to what you are saying; the GF210's have the least amount of drop of any of the aftermarket springs which would fit your thoery about the roll center & go a long way to explain why it cuts down the body roll so much without going to a full coil over kit.

Does anybody make a full height coil over set for the Fit?

 

So Sugar what is your set up for suspension?

 

current set up.
buddy club sf 15x6.5 +35
BFG G-Force 195-55-15
megan coilovers
ultra racing Front strut bar
utra racing Rear strut bar
ultra racing rear 4pt lower brace
ultra racing front 4pt lower brace
ultra racing JDM room bar
progress rear sway bar

car is solid!!!!! still need to put on fender braces, not that the fit really needs it but just cause i want too.

was messing with my friend on the highway in his bone stock evo...he was surpised.

 

Should calll me SP or Sugarphreak... feels awkward being called sugar by another guy! lol

Suspension, Braking & Handling Mods
Tanabe GF210 Springs
(Stock Dampers)
Battle Endless 24mm Front Sway Bar
Battle Endless Rear C-Pillar Bar
J's Racing front strut bar
T1R Stainless Brake Lines
X3E Brake Pads (Front & Back)

Wheels & Tires:
15" Rota C10 wheels (13lbs, +45 offset)
205/50/R15 Bridgestone RE-11 tires

Engine Mods:
Weapon-R SRI (oversized)
Weapon-R Intake Manifold
Weapon-R Race Header
Unorthodox Racing Pulley set
T1R B-Pipe
T1R 50S Exhaust
Greddy E-manage Ultimate ECU
Mobile1 Synthetic (was running Royal Purple before)

Convenience Mods:
Zeta Dead Pedal (a must have for autocross!!)
Skunk2 Short Shifter
Skunk2 weighted Shift Knob

I usuall run about 38psi in these tires both front & back, I also always remove the spare tire and drop the rear seats into the floor to get my CG down a bit when I run.

 

lol I didnt even notice that yes I agree SP it is. I will start with strut bars and the springs first.

Joe

 

That is a good start, the springs made a world of difference for me.

The front sway bar is a bit of a pain to put in, you need to drop the subframe to get it in there. One of the things I noticed about the stock sway bar and 24mm one was the stock one went "TWAAAAANNNGGGGGG" and almost vibrated out of your hand if you hit it on the floor. The 24mm went "Thud" and that was it.

 

here is my set up...
t1r arm bar
Mugen Strut bar
Progress RSB
J's racing rear upper Strut bar
Cusco Zero 2 Full Coil overs

 

How do you find the T1R Arm Bar?

 

it should be T1R lower arm bar

P/N: 74350-GD3-T1R


T1R Front Lower Arm Bar 2006+ Honda Fit GD3 - P/N: 74350-GD3-T1R

EDIT: oh i thought it meant how you find one.. haha duh

 

very helpfull, now that i have the Coils its superb

 

damn that place has stuff marked up

 

It seems from reading this thread that one of the best handling improvements a Fit owner can make, is install a rear sway bar.

Who makes them? (please provide a link)
How would you rate it? Both installation and handling improvements…
Thanx in advance…

 

progress rear sway bar. look in the FS section because there were a few recent ones being sold

 

No, arguably the best mod you can do for handeling is either springs or coil overs... the second best mod you can do is get a very good set of tires.

Then there is two philosophies you can choose for sway bars... either stiffen up the front or conversly stiffen up the rear and even consider removing the front sway bar.

I have had much success in stiffening the front and not running a rear sway bar to keep the back loose. Either path seems to have benifits though.

 

Some of us do take exception to adding oversteer to make up for too much understeer. Racing experience says otherwise unless thats all you can do. Because the Fit is soooo complicated in its antisway bar installation it may be one of those.
In over 50 years racing we believe, like other race suspension engineers, that adding either understeer or oversteer is bad. Reducing understeer to even up with oversteer is better and is you lookat European racres thats their philosophy. Too many Detroiters just add massive antisway bars to keep their vehicle level because Americans think flat cornering is the ticket until they get to the limits of adhesion. When you unload the inside tire prematurely as happens with too much antisway bar you lose adhesion on the inside tire, which of course reduces ultimate adhesion and cornering (and control if its front).

Fits benefit greatly from reducing the understeer by reducing or eliminating the front antisway bar. And if lowering is added the stiffer springs necessary to maintain reasonale suspension control will be enhanced. Stopweatches are the measuremet device; forget 'feel'.
The softest springs you can get away with are the right ones. That tire must be kept in contact with the road surface and too stiff springs or weight unloading (which is the result of too much antisway) are the enemies.

Here's aquick test: on a nice safe location with no tendency to tip your car over
Try driving in a 100 ft diameter circle at increasing speed until you can't maintain following the circle. The Fit leaves the circularly path either nose first (understeer) or rear end first (oversteer).
If you have to keep turning more into the circle as speed increases you have understeer. If you have to turn less into the circle as speed increase you have oversteer. If you're careful and sensitive you can tell without having the Fit leave the path.
When oversteer and understeer are balanced the Fit will four wheel drift out. And when the springs are just barely soft enough and the sway bars are matched, you'll have the maximum cornering power.
This isn't easy. Its extremely complicated and difficult procedure. And it can be hazardous so do not just go do this somewhere by yourself.

Brace. That'll bring them out of the woodwork.

 

This is the best response I have seen yet…for a 50-foot radius circle. Depending on the suspension-to-steering geometry, there could be an infinite number of setting…depending on the radius of your travel path.

OK…time to share the wealth…did you do what you are telling us?

If so, what did you find out? Tell us the setup…