Haven't received everything yet. Should get it this week.

 

just want to let u all no, i installed a set of Dixcel type M front pads onto the GD1 jazz over the week end there..
got rid of the constant squeek i was getting from the original pads even after honda de-glazing them twice!!
not sure on how they r performing yet as i have not give them a proper stamping, tryin to brake them in a bit for now...

 

A buddy did put some PBR Metal Master in front and PRB Organic at the back of his 99 Maxima along with Brembo Disc at all corners...

It brakes like crazy!!!

Marko!!

 

We've standardized on Hawk HPS pads since on occasion we are preety hard on brakes for extended periods.

Thats on pretty much everything.

 

You left out the most imoportant criteria: they must 'stop damn well, every damn time' no matter how fast or how often. All the rest are merely window dressing.

 

That's good criteria for you and I, but it's not reasonable for Honda to put pads on the car that can hold up at 1100F. No mass-market consumer grade pad could reasonably be expected to survive under those conditions yet meet the criteria above. It's one or the other.

 

The stock pads work pretty damn well. If you want to gain some performance/pedal feel try replacing your fluid with ATE Super Blue or Gold. That will firm up your pedal.

Besides, if you put enough miles on your Fit to wear them out then you are way past due for a fluid change... I have 30k on mine in 16 months and they slill look like new.

 

hawk make pads, hps and hp+

I run the hp+ on my car with the T1R stainless brakesline with the ATE blue dot 4 (dont put dot 5 in your car) + brembo plain front disk.

The pedal is very firm and it BRAKE.

 

Did the T1R's help?

 

Sure! The pedal feeling is great.
But my car dont brake like I want, i'll put 11" in front next time

 

project MU pads

 

Since there are 5 major components to braking: brake fluid, proportioning valve, pads, rotors, and tires, have you addressed all 5, especially the tires?
And do you measure 'like I want" by measuring stopping distances, or what you feel?
It is rocket science.
PS: 11" rotors won't necessarily be better.

 

I've good tire too, i'm running the potenza re-11.
In time attack, 11" brake is a must..

 

11" front discs made a hell of a big difference for me on my GD3! See my post here for a cheap way to do it https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...tallation.html

 

Better tires have a big impact on actual stopping distance; changing the brake fluid can have a huge impact on brake feel. When people switch to SS lines, half the improvement they notice is probably just from fresh brake fluid. Change it annually; it it's the color of honey, it needs to be changed.

 

Since I searched this thread and found no reference to the GE (2009-), which only interchanges with the CR-Z fronts, not any other honda-acura product, should I start another thread or add to this one? Im inclined to start a GE-specific brake pad thread. What do you think?

Edit: No sticky like this on the GE sub-forum, but I will post in an existing thread there as well.

 

OK here's what to do since there are no 2010 or CRZ's here for us to check.
1. Pull your brake pad and carefully outline the shape on paper and measure the length and width and thickness, (including backplate).
2.Go to Hawk Brake company and check the pads for Civics Si (or other Civics) for its shape and length/width to compare against your pad.
For the SI pad part number page there is a picture with dimensions of the selected pad. Don't forget to check more than one year although 2011's should be closest.
3. If they are the same, those are the pads as long as thickness is same or less than new stock pads.
If they aren't quite the same shape but can be reshaped by grinding or machining to the correct shape, you can do that. If the thickness of the pad is greater forget it unless you have a machine shop with a precision surface grinder.

Hawk makes very good performance pads so since you used their drawings at least order the pads from them.
good luck.

 

Here's the situation F.F. My 08 spt fit has almost 70,xxx miles on it, the brake pedal feels like it drops a half- an inch before the car starts braking. I dont really like the pause, so I took it to the wrench-monkey, he said the rotors are to worn down to turn them and put new pads on. I havent won the lottery yet, I liked how these stock brakes lasted and they still work today, of course I have to start braking sooner which is not a bad thing.

I was wondering though when I replace the rotor and pads I believe I'm looking a 500.ss bucks for a mechanic to do it. I was thinking of going aftermarket and grabbing a friend with a Jack and replacing the rotor and pads together, do you think this is a job better left to a pro or should I give it a try, It seem easy am I wrong?

 

ftjoe, for the soft pedal problem I'd look at the rear brakes, specifically the adjustment mechanism that deals with the shoe to drum clearance. Bleed the lines too. New front rotors and pads, perhaps you do need them but I don't think this is going to firm up your pedal.

 

First, a spongy brake pedal is virtually certain to be air or bad fluid in the brake lines. If you let the brake fluid in reservoir drop low enough air will of course get in the lines so make sure your fluid level is good. Before doing anything else bleed the brakes, making sure you don't let the brake fluid in the reservoir drop enough to let air in. For your case, bleeding at least half a reservoir on each wheel. Brake fluids are extremely good at absorbing water so a good flush is not a bad idea at 70,000 miles..

Second, unless you've had the rotors ground regularly for new pads the rotor thickness is unlikely to be too thin. That means you get them measured accurately. I'll bet they aren't too thin unless you've changed pads more than twice and had the rotors ground flat. Of course I'm assuming your tech didn't grind the rotors more than necessary each time; that may not be a good assumption.

Third, there could be a binding of your brake caliper piston(s) and that means repair or replace them. but $500 is a bit much for replacing both rotors and bleeding the brakes.