I am looking into some BBS rs
have a few questions which I can't get them answered so I hope u guys can help me out

Adding lip size, will it make the wheel wider
ex: 17x8 with 2 inch lip and I'll replace the lip to 4 inches will it make the wheel 17x10 ????

As for offset can I get it machined to closer to zero??

When putting it bak together, is it as simple as bolting it down and get the right TQ spec ? How do you prevent it from leaking??

What is a good site to buy the parts? Lips, bolts, center cap

Last question is what is the numbers stand for "BBS rs 003" is the "003" a modal? What are the difference between all of them then as I've seen many combos

Thank you

 

might want to check with Alex at tirerack. x294. he is DA MAN.

 

Replacement lips can bought from Kodiak Racing.

You need to buy new silicone sealant. Once you take off those bolts, i guarantee you they wont be the same if you retorque them. I would buy all new bolts.

Basically, to have dope BBS RSs:

Bake the wheel to melt the silicone. Take the bolts off, and scrape all the old silicone off.

Buy new lips, buy new bolts. I would repaint the centers too.

Reassemble the wheel. I would use a dunk tank to check for air leaks.

I have all the links how to rebuild BBS RSs somewhere. I need to dig them up.

 

info I have about BBS

DIY
BBS RS & RM Refurbishing

Site that sell BBS parts
Welcome to Black Forest Industries Webstore

Tunershop - tuning - german wheels and tires - spacers - coilovers

 

Try this link too Felix. My buddy Nick rebuilt his RS from the start and finish and wrote a DIY too.

bB Squad • View topic - BBS RS Rebuild

 

I do a lot of work with RS's. I think we literally have the most BBS RS in the nation at the shop (not kidding, it's ridiculous) I hope I can help. PM if you have more questions or need anything.

Adding lip size, will it make the wheel wider
ex: 17x8 with 2 inch lip and I'll replace the lip to 4 inches will it make the wheel 17x10 ????

Yes. Adding a larger lip will make the wheel wider on the OUTER lip. You gain width, but only on the outside. 17x8 will typically have a 1 inch lip, unless it's a 5x120 set - which on a side note, you will not be able to redrill into a 4x100 because the center bore is too big - In theory you can press a hub ring into the center bore, then redrill into that..but I wouldn't do it.

As for offset can I get it machined to closer to zero??

I don't really understand this question. It sounds like you're talking about machining the hub? You can.. but you shouldn't. There's a certain amount of material between the head of the lug nut/bolt and hole. When you machine the hub, that space gets smaller...at the same time, machining the hub down would mean the offset would go higher, meaning more tuck.

I still don't understand the "machined closer to zero" To change the offset you need to either - Change outer lips, Change inner barrels, change the hub width. That's it.

When you add lips to wheels, you add 1" of width to the outer lips and you subtract 25mm in offset. For example, 17x8 +45 w/ an additional inch of lip turns into a 17x9 +20. The inner barrel remains the same, so if you can clear the inner strut, you'll be fine.

When putting it bak together, is it as simple as bolting it down and get the right TQ spec ? How do you prevent it from leaking??

Read around on wheel whores / vortex etc. Short story is, after they're split, clean up all the old sealant. Apply a thin layer of sealant back on the flange, then torque em down (too much sealant = incorrect TQ #s). Then once it's torqued down, lay a bead between the inners and outers. Use good sealant. BTW Good = Expensive. Some people say to buy new bolts, I would only do it if the bolts are all ugly and old. I've reused bolts plenty of times.

Honestly, the only way you'll know if it leaks, is when the tire is on. Prepare to redo at least one wheel! hahahh

What is a good site to buy the parts? Lips, bolts, center cap

Tunershop is awesome, tomas, team hoffman on ebay, felgen garage, BFI, kodiak just to name a few. There are a lot more. That's the truth.

Last question is what is the numbers stand for "BBS rs 003" is the "003" a modal? What are the difference between all of them then as I've seen many combos

the "003" would be a part number. There are 05892649857639847968 types of BBS RS, from small to big. Each RS # has specific specs - Diameter, width, offset, center bore, hub size, inner barrel, outer lip etc. If the RS was not rebuilt by someone else, the RS # specs will be same on each wheel. Some are more rare than the others. Redrills are typically worth less unless they are 5x100, or a bigger size into 4x100.

Thank you

You're welcome.

Keep it mind, RS are not cheap by any means... And you have to plan it out and measure measure measure. A lot of people want to rock RS, but don't understand what's involved. So just understand, that it's either a lot of work or you have to have someone take care of your setup. A lot the RS guys I know take awhile to build their sets, some as short as 4 months, some as long as over a year. Be prepared to throw a lot time and money at it. I think that most guys I know who do RS are usually around 3000-4500 in the set when it's said and done. At the same time, you'll be able to make a lot of that back when/if you decide to sell the set.

Here's a quick list w/ some examples of pricing

Wheels - 1000-1200 for a good set
Lips - 800-1200 (200-300 a piece)
Redrill - 200-300
Refinish - 500 (125 a piece)
bolts - 250 ish
center caps - 90

Subtotal $$$$$$$$$$$$$$

This is assuming you're not doing it yourself. If you're doing it yourself, you'll save a lot of money, but expect to put a lot of man hours into the build.

I hope I didn't come off as an ass, because I totally don't mean to. I just want everyone to be aware it's not as easy as "bolt and go" Again, it's OK to trust me, i do this everyday

 

thx for ur info !!

 

Yes.
It also changes offset; the offset will reduce by 25.4 mm because the centerline of the wheel rim moves 25.4 (1") mm outward (half the added width) and thus closer to the hub face if your offset was such that the hub face is outboard of the wheel centerline (avoiding errors whether negative or positive offset) to begin with. If it was 40 mm before, now it will be 15 if you add 2" to the front. If it was 25 mm now its zero.

Now, out of curiosity what in the dickens are you doing this for?

As for offset can I get it machined to closer to zero??

Depends on your original offset. If your original offset was 25 mm then adding 2" will do it. See prior .

When putting it back together, is it as simple as bolting it down and get the right TQ spec ? How do you prevent it from leaking??

Other procedures have it right. We use thin gaskets cut to fit.
Tedious.

What is a good site to buy the parts? Lips, bolts, center cap

That wheel supplier. Unless you have a crackerjack machine shop go only to the supplier for procedure and parts.

Last question is what is the numbers stand for "BBS rs 003" is the "003" a modal? What are the difference between all of them then as I've seen many combos

Thank you[/quote]

Yes.
It also changes offset; the offset will reduce by 25.4 mm because the centerline of the wheel rim moves 25.4 (1") mm outward (half the added width) and thus closer to the hub face if your offset was such that the hub face is outboard of the wheel centerline (avoiding errors whether negative or positive offset) to begin with. If it was 40 mm before, now it will be 15 if you add 2" to the front. If it was 25 mm now its zero.

Now, out of curiosity what in the dickens are you doing this for?

As for offset can I get it machined to closer to zero??

Depends on your original offset. If your original offset was 25 mm then adding 2" will do it. See prior .

When putting it back together, is it as simple as bolting it down and get the right TQ spec ? How do you prevent it from leaking??

Other procedures have it right. We use thin gaskets cut to fit.
Tedious.

What is a good site to buy the parts? Lips, bolts, center cap

That wheel supplier. Unless you have a crackerjack machine shop go only to the supplier for procedure and parts.

Last question is what is the numbers stand for "BBS rs 003" is the "003" a modal? What are the difference between all of them then as I've seen many combos

Thank you[/quote]

 

BBS doesn't supply these lips anymore. If one wants original BBS RS lips in 2" sizes, one would have to purchase another set of BBS RS with lips that are that size.

What do you mean by crackerjack machine shop btw? One of my lip suppliers makes 3 piece wheels for track cars, one of my suppliers makes lips for HRE and the like, another one is makes one for a ton of wheel companies here in the states. If by crackerjack you are implying below par quality, please do explain how.

 

Sorry, crackerjack originally referred to a machine shop that made really good parts for example molds for the plastics industry or any part that required careful dimensioning or less than one thousandth tolerances.
And yes, most could make the outer rim parts but they would be expensive.
Today we tend to think of crackerjack as something out of the box and not real careful either.
There are shops around that you can show them what you need and they can design and fabricate but they are getting thinner by the day.

 

shows the difference between generations i suppose. You know the crackerjack as a different definition as what I think.

When I think crackerjack I think of the junkfood! hahhaha