I've got an 08 Fit Sport and have started running it in autocross. I've got a second set of wheels/tires for that but essentially everytime anyone has tried to switch wheels at least one stud breaks. I've broken two, local tire installer has broken two. Wheels are always hand tightened and I've broken two using hand tools. Never seen anything like this before on any car I've owned (and I'm old)...

 

I haven't run across such problems, though there have been several threads addressing the issue, most of which I haven't read past the thread title.

This may have been asked before, but were you using OEM lug nuts on stock wheels (ball seat) or the lug nuts that came with Team Dynamic wheels (tapered seat)? Seems as though both the studs and the lug nuts could be the cause of the problem.

 

This is interesting. I autoX my Fit as well and switch wheels out for race day. OE sport wheels DD and Volks RE30 race. I have only had one stud break due to cross threading.

Palos asked a great question are you using the same lug nuts for both sets? What torque specs are you using?

 

So far, I haven't even run the Team Dynamics wheels/tires yet. Was running the HFP wheels/tires and the tire installer broke two studs just rotating tires. Drove around on the Team Dynamics wheels this week to/from work to break in the new tires. Everything from a stud/nut consideration is stock. 80-90 lb/ft on the torque.

 

Searched through the forum and found a disturbing number of people with similar issues. Going to just call it a day and find something less fragile for autoX. Anyone need wheels with brand new tires, lol. From what I hear H class will now have Fiesta STs in anyways, which will make us even less competitive than now when we get smoked by Minis and Mazda 3's...

 

Definitely a maybe.

The reason I asked which lug nuts were being used was to determine whether the OEM studs play nicely with aftermarket lug nuts. Assuming that Honda uses the same supplier for studs and lug nuts, I would imagine they work well together. When an aftermarket lug nut is introduced into the equation, they may be made to slightly different tolerances or of a different metallurgy, which result in the studs breaking.

 

STF allows RSX type S . It's not about power all the time. The car that has been dominating STF here in Southern California is a Yaris. Its how you drive and anyone will tell you that.

If you think it's a stud nut combo problem upgrade. ARP studs will definitely solve your problem. Also be careful running the after market wheels with stock nuts as mentioned before. that will damage thing even for a short period of usage.

 

team dynamic wheels take a different lugnut than stock. they use 60 degree tapered lugnuts, not ball seat/acorn like stock honda wheels.

there's your problem. 80lbs/ft is the torque spec, not 90. also, i would anti seize to lubricate the threads.

i have litterally changed the wheels on my s2000 hundreds on times (13 year scca veteran) and NEVER broken a stud (same thread pitch stud and same lugnut as the fit). and i use my electric impact to remove/install the nut, with final torquing done by hand.

 

My first question is what tools are being used to swap wheels. Breaker bar or impact? Are you cranking them tight significantly before putting a torque wrench on them?

I swap tires all the time on our Miatas and to a lesser degree on other cars in the fleet. I've never broken a stud, and I've only cross-threaded one.

 

I currently break mine lose with a breaker and tighten with the breaker and torque to 84lbs (the torque wrench is not a high end one so I give it the 4lb leeway). This is done constantly and I have had no issues. I have Volks with aluminum lug nuts.

There have been times I have used an electric impact as well and had no issues. I will be getting an impact gun soon and don't expect problems but also will be hand torquing to spec.

 

I use Skunk 2 Lightweight lug nuts on Oem rims and no prob ever.

 

I've done nothing different with this car than any other car I've owned (and I'm in my 40's) and both myself and the installer using hand tools or impact wrenches have broken studs on the HFP wheels and Team Dynamics ones with both new and old studs breaking randomly (i.e., not just the old ones or just new ones, no front/back or left/right bias either).

Searching through the forum, it looks like some are just prone to this and I'm one of the unlucky ones. All the suggestions mentioned have been tried and made no difference. Basically, the car is just a daily driver that may need a new stud or two every time the tires get rotated.

 

Change over to ARP studs. This is the best option and will save you in the long run.

ARP 100-7717 Wheel Studs

 

yeah, no problems until BANG! you have a problem... hopefully i am not on the same road as you when this happens. i watched this happen at the track to a guy that was running tuner lugnuts on stock wheels.

seriously, just because you haven't had an issue, doesn't mean it is right. skunk lugnuts are 60 degree taper and honda wheels have ball seats, so your lugnuts are only touching 1/3rd the area they should be, thus putting stress on the wheels and lugnuts themselves.



if you HAVE to run tapered lugnuts on oem honda ballset rims (for the look...), you should be using these washer/adapters:

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/me...ct_Code=WHL005

 

The Team Dynamics wheels were only on for a few days of DD. Only broke two studs with those wheels. The rest of the studs were with the HFP wheels that have been on the car since new. So, here's my new plan. Get the ARP studs mentioned above (ARP 100-7717 Wheel Studs) and some tapered lugnuts for the Team Dynamics wheels. Make sense to everyone?

That being said, wth is actually happening with the studs from a physical standpoint?

 

Honestly I couldn't tell you. Over torquing maybe with aggressive driving? This is an interesting one.

I believe the switch out to the ARP studs and proper lug nuts will cure it. Then just move forward and say fuck it.