Fit Wheels & Tires Discuss Wheels & Tires for the Fit and Jazz

Lightest wheels for the money?

Old Nov 22, 2014 | 09:48 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 555sexydrive
The 16s I just picked up for my winter beaters come in at 15.2lbs and $128 each. I didn't even know they offered 15s as they don't show up for the GE8 chassis. Though I still don't know if 15s will clear my new calipers, still have yet to test fit my current circuit wheels.
With the GE8, you may have to look at wheels for the Base model trim level. Not 100% sure but I believe the GE8 shares the same front calipers as the GD3 (and possibly the GK5). I will check when I get home... I'm curious about this now.

Originally Posted by Wanderer.
I believe you have in input for Spec Miata to find the 15" 4x100 TRMs
Nope, the Miata spec C1s are actually the "C1M" and they feature a +30 mm offset. Other than that, one can find a good selection of light weight 15 and 16 inch wheels and tires by looking up the first gen Miata. Just have to be mindful of width and offset.
 
Old Nov 23, 2014 | 02:19 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Hootie
With the GE8, you may have to look at wheels for the Base model trim level. Not 100% sure but I believe the GE8 shares the same front calipers as the GD3 (and possibly the GK5). I will check when I get home... I'm curious about this now.



Nope, the Miata spec C1s are actually the "C1M" and they feature a +30 mm offset. Other than that, one can find a good selection of light weight 15 and 16 inch wheels and tires by looking up the first gen Miata. Just have to be mindful of width and offset.

Ah, that's right, +30 is "aggressive fitment" on the Fit
 
Old Nov 23, 2014 | 08:41 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Wanderer.
Ah, that's right, +30 is "aggressive fitment" on the Fit
Yeah but they look darn good on the GD3 in flat silver (almost chrome/polished like) and wrapped Toyo R1Rs... Fenders and rear quarters will be gone if someone tried to run them though.
 
Old Nov 24, 2014 | 02:11 AM
  #24  
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Well even the 16x7 +42 TRC1 doesn't clear my calipers. The damn spokes are too thick, so on went the H&R 10mm spacers to clear. Had I known, they wouldn't clear, I wouldn't have purchased them. Not a huge loss, but I could have easily just put snow tires on my RE30s and used the spacers and had less weight as well.

The ClubRacer CE28s that showed up last night at 16x7 +42 weigh in at a light 4.9kg (10.8lbs). Loving them, now to outfit them with some A050s and hit the circuits.
 
Old Nov 26, 2014 | 09:00 AM
  #25  
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Offset is the key. When I put Kosei K1 with 205 Z2s on our stock '08 Sport, it would rub the rear fenders when the car was loaded with cargo or people in back. Now that our car is lowered, I don't see the K1s going back on.
 
Old Nov 26, 2014 | 10:43 AM
  #26  
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Tire rack also has a TRM C1 in a 16x6.5 that is about a pound lighter that the 16x7 version. The tricky thing is that it is not show under the Fit you will have to look under an older 4 lug Integra.
 

Last edited by jibberjabbs; Nov 26, 2014 at 10:51 AM.
Old Dec 31, 2014 | 09:33 AM
  #27  
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I'm considering new wheels to improve MPG for my 2007 Fit Sport, and this thread is informative for someone like me who has never bought after market wheels before.

I'm not familiar with OFFSET and what the 2nd number means in BOLT PATTERN. What works with my 2007 Fit Sport?

Here is a link to the Rota Slipstream wheel chart:
SLIPSTREAM - ROTA Wheels
 
Old Dec 31, 2014 | 06:53 PM
  #28  
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you are a 4x100 bolt pattern and go with 15x6.5 size and offset +40-+45 and you will be fine. the higher the offset the farther inside the fender the rim is.

Custom rims, wheel tire packages for your ride - RIMSnTIRES.com stock is 15x5.5 +55 and if you go +40 it would be 15x6.5 +40
 
Old Dec 31, 2014 | 08:05 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 2poler
stock is 15x6 +55 and if you go +40 it would be 15x6.5 +40
Fixed that for ya.

For a 6.5 inch wide wheel, go as low as a +38mm with a 195/55R15 with stock suspension.

For a 7 inch wide wheel, go as low a +40 with a 195/55R15 OR as low as +42 with a 205/50R15... again, this is with STOCK suspension.
 
Old Jan 2, 2015 | 10:28 PM
  #30  
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I'm running 15x7 +42 with 205/50R15 with no rubbing issues and the Fit is LOW. This was eve before I ran -3.3 camber in the front. On non-race day I run the OE sport wheels but I will be running a 15mm spacer to bring them out to +40 on the offset. The +.02 shouldn't have any effect.
 
Old Jan 2, 2015 | 10:30 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by ten_year_man
I'm considering new wheels to improve MPG for my 2007 Fit Sport, and this thread is informative for someone like me who has never bought after market wheels before.

I'm not familiar with OFFSET and what the 2nd number means in BOLT PATTERN. What works with my 2007 Fit Sport?

Here is a link to the Rota Slipstream wheel chart:
SLIPSTREAM - ROTA Wheels
Just remember cheap wheels doesn't always last. A nice quality wheel will last you a longggggg time.
 
Old Jan 2, 2015 | 11:24 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Rollerboots666
Just remember cheap wheels doesn't always last. A nice quality wheel will last you a longggggg time.
What happens with cheap wheels -- do they fail somehow, or just start to lose their appearance?

I'm a believer in spending a little more for quality; are there any specific brands mentioned in this thread to steer clear of?
 
Old Jan 2, 2015 | 11:29 PM
  #33  
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I would personally steer clear of XXR, Varrstoen, MR, Kosei, and 90% of replica wheel companies.

The only exception to me would be Rotas which have been around for a long time and even some race teams run them.

Personally, given how inexpensive 15"-17" wheels are in general I suggest going for a good set of Japanese wheels preferably Forged, or (if not available in a forged version) cast (depending on the model and brand for instance all Enkei wheels or Weds or Works or AME's).
 
Old Jan 3, 2015 | 12:14 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Waiz
I would personally steer clear of XXR, Varrstoen, MR, Kosei, and 90% of replica wheel companies.

The only exception to me would be Rotas which have been around for a long time and even some race teams run them.

Personally, given how inexpensive 15"-17" wheels are in general I suggest going for a good set of Japanese wheels preferably Forged, or (if not available in a forged version) cast (depending on the model and brand for instance all Enkei wheels or Weds or Works or AME's).
You'd avoid Kosei but are okay with Rota? That makes no sense to me.

I'd put Koseis on ALL my cars and feel 200000% safe.
 
Old Jan 3, 2015 | 01:15 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by mike410b
You'd avoid Kosei but are okay with Rota? That makes no sense to me.

I'd put Koseis on ALL my cars and feel 200000% safe.
I would avoid all of them but Rota are actually run on race team cars, just making that distinction.

My opinion is very biased because I am a wheel whore and would never ever ever run replica or cheapo wheels
 
Old Jan 3, 2015 | 01:50 PM
  #36  
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I've had a good experience with Rota's on 2 occasions. They are not bad for the money.
 
Old Jan 3, 2015 | 05:34 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Waiz
I would personally steer clear of XXR, Varrstoen, MR, Kosei, and 90% of replica wheel companies.
Umm... You do know that Kosei does make some OEM Honda wheels right?
 
Old Jan 3, 2015 | 06:30 PM
  #38  
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don't hit a curb with any wheel and you'll be fine...

ta daa
 
Old Jan 3, 2015 | 07:15 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Waiz
I would avoid all of them but Rota are actually run on race team cars, just making that distinction.

My opinion is very biased because I am a wheel whore and would never ever ever run replica or cheapo wheels
As am I.

I've owned BBS Japan wheels, Volks, Gram Lights, Work Equips, SSR, Advans, etc.

The cheapest wheels I've ever owned were Enkei RCT1.

That wouldn't stop me from using Koseis, especially older made in Japan Koseis.
 
Old Jan 3, 2015 | 08:50 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Hootie
Umm... You do know that Kosei does make some OEM Honda wheels right?
Originally Posted by mike410b
As am I.

I've owned BBS Japan wheels, Volks, Gram Lights, Work Equips, SSR, Advans, etc.

The cheapest wheels I've ever owned were Enkei RCT1.

That wouldn't stop me from using Koseis, especially older made in Japan Koseis.
I revise my statement and remove Kosei's but stand by the rest
 

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