General Fit Talk General Discussion on the Honda Fit/Jazz.

Battery Corrosion.. ewww.

  #1  
Old 06-03-2019, 07:08 PM
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Angry Battery Corrosion.. ewww.

Just getting around to cleaning up this corrosion. It looks like the 151r battery was a POS. I've since doused everything in a baking soda / water mix, and rinsed it out. I'll probably spray some WD40 after another scrubdown.

Questions:

1. is there a better substance than WD40 to protect the existing, partially corroded parts? I understand that WD stands for water displacement, and that it is a blend of mineral spirits / lubricating oil.

2. Should I try to remove the battery plate for further cleaning? I'm guessing so, but the corrosion may make it tough to remove. I mean, ideally, the whole thing would be taken apart / cleaned, but with 160,000km is it worth that much effort? I figure that depends on the severity of the issue. As of now, it runs quite smoothly.

3. Should I be concerned about the corrosion? For the most part, it seems to have stripped off the paint on the battery plate and really rusted any steal bolts / pipe clamps, but that's about it.

4. What are the parts situated close to the battery plate? From my very limited knowledge, it looks like there is an engine mount very close to it. But that's all I can think of.

What a bloody mess. Any thoughts and suggestions are welcome.


2007 Fit battery plate
 
  #2  
Old 06-03-2019, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ranplett
1. is there a better substance than WD40 to protect the existing, partially corroded parts? I understand that WD stands for water displacement, and that it is a blend of mineral spirits / lubricating oil.
Yes, there is better stuff. I use this stuff called Boeshield.

https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK/ref=asc_df_B001447PEK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312192374842&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12860039170949842379&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1016367&hvtargid=pla-568084798201&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK/ref=asc_df_B001447PEK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312192374842&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12860039170949842379&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1016367&hvtargid=pla-568084798201&psc=1

2. Should I try to remove the battery plate for further cleaning? I'm guessing so, but the corrosion may make it tough to remove. I mean, ideally, the whole thing would be taken apart / cleaned, but with 160,000km is it worth that much effort? I figure that depends on the severity of the issue. As of now, it runs quite smoothly.
I would get as much as you can. I don't know how long it continues to eat at things but get what you can.

3. Should I be concerned about the corrosion? For the most part, it seems to have stripped off the paint on the battery plate and really rusted any steal bolts / pipe clamps, but that's about it.
For the rust you can use this which is also said to protect the metal after the rust is removed:

Amazon Amazon

Really you could use the Krud Kutter to remove the rust and then it would also protect so no need for the Boeshield.
 
  #3  
Old 06-04-2019, 05:26 AM
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Did you placed a tray under the battery? Or was it directly on the metal?

As for the rust, I would either (or both, why not!):
- Sand to bare metal, replace damaged bolts, then POR-15 the hell out of it;
- Put a lot of anti-rust grease.
 

Last edited by Frenzal; 06-04-2019 at 05:28 AM.
  #4  
Old 06-04-2019, 12:03 PM
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I would be worry about transmission line solenoid connectors, as acid can get into them corroding contacts.
As for the battery tray, it has to be removed (two 12mm screws) , wire brushed , treated with rust naval jelly or equivalent (20% strength phosphoric acid will work too), then painted with industrial rustoleum red paint (formerly known as Hard Hat), the paint should be air dried for 4 hours, then baked for 30 minutes at 120 degrees C.
 
  #5  
Old 06-10-2019, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by GolNat
Yes, there is better stuff. I use this stuff called Boeshield.

https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Cor...84798201&psc=1



I would get as much as you can. I don't know how long it continues to eat at things but get what you can.


For the rust you can use this which is also said to protect the metal after the rust is removed:

https://www.amazon.com/KRUD-KUTTER-3.../dp/B000F6UHDY

Really you could use the Krud Kutter to remove the rust and then it would also protect so no need for the Boeshield.
Thanks, I picked up some of that rust treatment. Turns out I bought another battery plate from the wrecker, which was still rusted, but I managed to remove most of it. Now I've just gotta paint it and I'm actually thinking to use the truck bed coating because that is a polymer based coating and should help against battery acid corrosion. Unless the battery tray is actually designed to soak up the acid to keep it from the other parts, and if that's the case, I'm going to make a mess
 
  #6  
Old 06-10-2019, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Frenzal
Did you placed a tray under the battery? Or was it directly on the metal?

As for the rust, I would either (or both, why not!):
- Sand to bare metal, replace damaged bolts, then POR-15 the hell out of it;
- Put a lot of anti-rust grease.
Thanks, yes, I did that for the battery tray. For the rest of the engine I (twice) poured a baking soda / water mix to neutralize any stray acid that found it's way onto other parts, followed by an antirust treatment. I'm spraying the battery tray with truck bed liner which is a polymer based coating, hoping that will prevent damage in the future. Also have to fabricate a part secure the newer, bigger battery. It should fit, barely
 
  #7  
Old 06-10-2019, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by doctor J
I would be worry about transmission line solenoid connectors, as acid can get into them corroding contacts.
As for the battery tray, it has to be removed (two 12mm screws) , wire brushed , treated with rust naval jelly or equivalent (20% strength phosphoric acid will work too), then painted with industrial rustoleum red paint (formerly known as Hard Hat), the paint should be air dried for 4 hours, then baked for 30 minutes at 120 degrees C.
Woah, cool, I didn't know you could bake the paint on. I take it that's a specific type of paint? Right now, to save $$ I'm going to try and use a polymer based truck bed coating. It's said to be able to withstand 200 deg. so hopefully the heat of the negine won't be a problem.

As for the soenoid connectors. I looked it up, and it does indeed look rusted. But I doubt that it has effected performance (yet). But I'll keep an eye on it.

Thanks for your suggestions. Very much appreciated!
 
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