I hate my Fit!
Hmm, I will be doing the same thing, I have to take a more detailed report of my driving, means I have to go to LA take a detailed report, maybe even do a recording of my OBDII readings.
I'll be doing this the weekend of the Fit Meet drive up/down to the mountain.
Anyways, this looks like fun. and it means I Have more reason to drive around.
I'll be doing this the weekend of the Fit Meet drive up/down to the mountain.
Anyways, this looks like fun. and it means I Have more reason to drive around.
I worked at a honda mc dealership for 7 years. sometimes there were thing that were very hard to find. honda follows the warranty issues and has a data base. the more they sell the more some problems will come up. If your problem is totally unique then it will be harder. but if there have been others with similar symptoms then honda may have a clue.
For instance we had an 1100 cc bike (fast) that would not start when it was hot. so of course every suspects the battery and starter. (the motor would not turn over to be more specific). At on point I measured the force (torque) needed to turn the engine when it was hot vs when it was cold.
I think I just used a torque wrench. The force was much higher then any other bike. I called the tech line (thats for the mechanics) Apparently somewhere out there were a couple of other 1100's with the same problem.
Honda had them do the same test..... I get a call from honda "take the engine out" Apperently they had one I think they bought back and they found out that when the cylinders were machined they must have shifted on the jig and the bores were out of spec-i called them oval cylinders. They were only out a little bit. but I replaced the pistons and cylinders. I han every nut and bolt out of that engine.
Lets hope that is not your problem-but you have to keep pursuing it with honda
Dealers also HATE warranty work. I dont know why. We had no problem doing it my boss paid me 10.00 and he got 35 or 40 dollars per hour
May be It was that I enjoyed the hard to find problems and wasnt waiting till my next break-which I still have not got.
If you read this please let me know howthings are going. WE are thinking about buying a fit I never bought a new car before. I'll be 50 soon
For instance we had an 1100 cc bike (fast) that would not start when it was hot. so of course every suspects the battery and starter. (the motor would not turn over to be more specific). At on point I measured the force (torque) needed to turn the engine when it was hot vs when it was cold.
I think I just used a torque wrench. The force was much higher then any other bike. I called the tech line (thats for the mechanics) Apparently somewhere out there were a couple of other 1100's with the same problem.
Honda had them do the same test..... I get a call from honda "take the engine out" Apperently they had one I think they bought back and they found out that when the cylinders were machined they must have shifted on the jig and the bores were out of spec-i called them oval cylinders. They were only out a little bit. but I replaced the pistons and cylinders. I han every nut and bolt out of that engine.
Lets hope that is not your problem-but you have to keep pursuing it with honda
Dealers also HATE warranty work. I dont know why. We had no problem doing it my boss paid me 10.00 and he got 35 or 40 dollars per hour
May be It was that I enjoyed the hard to find problems and wasnt waiting till my next break-which I still have not got.
If you read this please let me know howthings are going. WE are thinking about buying a fit I never bought a new car before. I'll be 50 soon
damn man sorry to hear about your Fit and the asshole dealer... my recomendation.. if possible. in my state we have what is called "the better buisness buroe" they are set up for customers of assholes like the dealership you bought from. if your state has one of these call them, it would be free for you... even if the dealership that is now going to diagnose your car fixes it, i would still report them so they cant pull shit like this... good luck
The MPG is another (not mentioned) issue I've had with my FIT. I've never gotten better than 22 mpg with my fit. The dealer just told me that it will get better with time...we'll see. As far as the oil burning...I've not been charged a dime so far but the dealer wants to lay the labor costs of breaking down the engine on me if no problem is found. The dealership will file a warranty claim if something is found while breaking down the engine.
Keep us updated man. Glad for the great news.
To the OP, that ****ing sucks and I hope someone crazy rams a Mack Truck into their building.
Last edited by HapaLynai; Oct 25, 2007 at 02:20 AM. Reason: Too many lawls
I couldn't stand how cheap and featureless the interior was. I didnt like the lack of power, the seats made my friends back hurt (injury from serving in Iraq), wasn't sure how the long term reliability would be with how hard I was using it. I do miss the handling and cheap fill ups. My new 4Runner is so much more comfortable in every way.
me and my fiancee just went threw this, she bought a 07 hyundai accent and paid it in full, wrote them a check for 14g's. if i was with her at the time i would of never let her buy a hyundai. had nothing but problems with the car, they had to replace two heads,had electricle problems,ac didnt work, and could never figure out the problem,it was all covered under the warrenty, so it was in for like 35 days and in for the same thing like 4 times. they actually have lemon law atourneys that you dont have to pay for, they will take care of everything for you and if you win the manufactior has to pay them, so you might want to look into that. to be a lemon it has to be in for the same thing 2 or more times or in there shop for over 30 days
me and my fiancee just went threw this, she bought a 07 hyundai accent and paid it in full, wrote them a check for 14g's. if i was with her at the time i would of never let her buy a hyundai. had nothing but problems with the car, they had to replace two heads,had electricle problems,ac didnt work, and could never figure out the problem,it was all covered under the warrenty, so it was in for like 35 days and in for the same thing like 4 times. they actually have lemon law atourneys that you dont have to pay for, they will take care of everything for you and if you win the manufactior has to pay them, so you might want to look into that. to be a lemon it has to be in for the same thing 2 or more times or in there shop for over 30 days
I am glad you found another dealer willing to look at it. I am surprised your original dealer didn't offer to do a leak down test, this is a simple test that is done to see if you have bad rings or valve seats without pulling the engine apart. This quick and simple test would have easily confirmed if there was a problem internal to the engine besides a porous block.
EDIT: For those unfamiliar with a leak down test, its basically a fancy compression test: Leak-down tester - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
EDIT: For those unfamiliar with a leak down test, its basically a fancy compression test: Leak-down tester - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Last edited by SciroccoTDI; Oct 25, 2007 at 09:18 AM.
Interior just felt cheap and the car was slower than I expected. Didn't feel like pouring money into the fit to make it fast so I got an S2000
I don't represent you and this is not legal advice, etc., but... at this point you may not be making a claim under the lemon law, rather you may be making a claim that under the Uniform Commercial Code or its equivalent in your state, the car doesn't live up to the implied warranty of merchantability that covers the sale of goods by a merchant... in other words, that it is fit for its intended use (no pun intended) ... if it's using excessive oil it's not fit for its intended use (you would argue), etc.
It would be prudent to see a lawyer now, an initial consultation should not be too expensive and you can get an outline of what you're dealing with under your specific state law as well as any federal remedies (what you will have to show, what the dealer has to do, what you have to do, etc.).
Good luck.
It would be prudent to see a lawyer now, an initial consultation should not be too expensive and you can get an outline of what you're dealing with under your specific state law as well as any federal remedies (what you will have to show, what the dealer has to do, what you have to do, etc.).
Good luck.
Just as an FYI....got my first oil change the other day. I have always changed my own oil on my cars but to tell you the truth, just getting tired of doing the work and getting rid of the old oil!
Made an appointment at my local dealership and I can say it was a GREAT experience. I was in n out in an hour plus they had Mobil 1 Syntec available. To tell you the truth I would recommend strongly NOT using Jiffy Lube or another oil changing facility.
Alot of times dealerships will use this sort of stuff on you when you do have problems with your car......guess what I am trying to say is either know what you are doing to change your oil or take it to the HONDA DEALER. In my eyes if my Fit was burninng oil and the dealership changed the oil......dealerships prob!!!
GD3blaze07'
Made an appointment at my local dealership and I can say it was a GREAT experience. I was in n out in an hour plus they had Mobil 1 Syntec available. To tell you the truth I would recommend strongly NOT using Jiffy Lube or another oil changing facility.
Alot of times dealerships will use this sort of stuff on you when you do have problems with your car......guess what I am trying to say is either know what you are doing to change your oil or take it to the HONDA DEALER. In my eyes if my Fit was burninng oil and the dealership changed the oil......dealerships prob!!!
GD3blaze07'
The Fit was seen by a different dealership and nothing was found. The car passed all the diagnostic tests with flying colors and there was no sign of a leak anywhere. The mechanic was stumped because I took the car into the shop low on oil. He acknowleded there was a problem but could not offer a resolution. I had high hopes but this is pretty much what I was suspecting. I'm currently looking for an attorney to handle the lemon law case. I already have two documented dealership visits concerning the same issue so all I need is one more. The mechanic at the dealership advised I will most likely not need the third visit. Honda apparently likes to keep things quiet when it comes to cases such as this and a filed lemon law case on their record is a big no-no. Honda will most likely refund my loan and take the car without it being formally filed. Once the loan is paid off I will venture out for another car and it won't be a Honda...that's not to say I won't revisit Honda in the future but I'm not going to take the chance of going through this twice. I know Honda is a good car company because I've driven a number of them with no issue...until now. It's just time for me to give another company a try.
daggonit,
engine tear down?! LOL! Everything can be figured or narrowed down with good old fashioned troubleshooting!
Before you go the "expensive way" try this.
Every Honda dealer is "covered" by a factory Honda representative. Usually he has an office in one of the local dealerships. His job is to handle issues like this. He is the person dealers submit warranty claims to be covered by the manufacturer. Dealer does not like doing it for fear of getting on manufacturer's bad side. Cut the middleman. Get to the rep yourself.
In the past (15 years ago) I had the igniter fail on my CRX. It was a known problem on the civic/crx line up and dealers were replacing them quietly for Honda during regular services. Well they were not willing to replace melted catalytic converter, so I got a hold of the Factory rep. I gave them an earful on igniter problem and the fact that Honda did not do a mayor recall. He just about died when I painted a picture of a civic dying on a railroad crossing with a train approaching, and family of four of which two members were in infant seats! Catalytic was replaced too. I demonstrated a knowledge of igniter failure directly being related to a gasoline soaked/smelling/melted cat and challenged them to come up with a single viable theory to prove me wrong. LOL!
Leak down test was a good idea! I am sure dealer tech did not perform that. They are trained to connect factory shop computer into OBD connector and wait for the computer to tell them where the problem is. They are certified part exchangers! I worked as a mechanic for 8 years in a private Mercedes/BMW/Porsche shop and refused to get ASE certified as well. I started that, but I walked away when I realized they were "infected" with computer bug.
During dealer check up, did they perform a smog check?
First of all if you are "using" oil that oil needs to get out of oil passages and end up somewhere else. Is there a smell of oil or burned oil in or outside your car? If you are parking it in the garage overnight, is there a profound smell of oil when you get in the garage in the morning? On first morning start up does your car emit bluish smoke out of the tail pipe? If you are burning oil at such a high rate your check engine light would come on and your spark plugs would be gunk-ed up with solidified carbon deposits from burned oils. Not to mention your tailpipe would emit serious smoke and burned oil smell. Your cat would first plug up and then melt down and throw a check engine light. Based on that I am sure you are not burning it.
I am sure you are leaking it somehow. Unfortunately Fit does not have a temperature gauge and temperature is a very valuable tool in diagnostics.
Is your coolant clean? Does it have oily brown spots in it?
Are all vacuum hoses properly connected? Do you have any sign of leaks under the car between engine and transmission or on the side where accessory belt is? I dealt with so many oil leaks where there were no puddles under the car!
What you need is a good independent Honda shop with experience in engine building (racing engine builds) that can perform good old fashioned diagnostic trouble shooting. Plugging a car to a computer is just another diagnostic aide, not the only way!
Finally, I know you are frustrated with Honda, but you were not dealing with a Honda, only a Honda dealer! If you do not won't to deal with your Fit problems, get another Honda! It is the most reliable vehicle in US market you can buy! Some of you will argue that with Toyota, but look under the hood and if you have any mechanic experience, you will be able to tell the difference in engineering approach between the two. Honda is engineering under the motto: "keep it simple stupid" while Toyota tends to use a more complex approach. Not that it is not working great for them, but why deal with it.
All other manufacturers have far complex strategy. I still help my friends with their cars and I can see their frustration.
Personally I like new VW's, but beside diesel Mercedes none of European cars seem to be reliable past 60-70K miles. Subaru and Mitsubishi is overly complex and much more expensive to maintain. Domestics? Well, I prefer to restrain on commenting on those! LOL! Is that my neighbor's Ford self combusting in the driveway from a faulty ignition switch that was already replaced 4 times, alas with the same crap?
Do not give up, pursue it peaceful way with a factory rep. Last resort get another Fit or Civic. There is no way you can end up with two faulty cars in a row. They will bend backwards to keep you as a customer.
If that does not work, get a local media involved. They will do everything to kiss your ass to stop it.
Lastly get a good professional lawyer.
engine tear down?! LOL! Everything can be figured or narrowed down with good old fashioned troubleshooting!
Before you go the "expensive way" try this.
Every Honda dealer is "covered" by a factory Honda representative. Usually he has an office in one of the local dealerships. His job is to handle issues like this. He is the person dealers submit warranty claims to be covered by the manufacturer. Dealer does not like doing it for fear of getting on manufacturer's bad side. Cut the middleman. Get to the rep yourself.
In the past (15 years ago) I had the igniter fail on my CRX. It was a known problem on the civic/crx line up and dealers were replacing them quietly for Honda during regular services. Well they were not willing to replace melted catalytic converter, so I got a hold of the Factory rep. I gave them an earful on igniter problem and the fact that Honda did not do a mayor recall. He just about died when I painted a picture of a civic dying on a railroad crossing with a train approaching, and family of four of which two members were in infant seats! Catalytic was replaced too. I demonstrated a knowledge of igniter failure directly being related to a gasoline soaked/smelling/melted cat and challenged them to come up with a single viable theory to prove me wrong. LOL!
Leak down test was a good idea! I am sure dealer tech did not perform that. They are trained to connect factory shop computer into OBD connector and wait for the computer to tell them where the problem is. They are certified part exchangers! I worked as a mechanic for 8 years in a private Mercedes/BMW/Porsche shop and refused to get ASE certified as well. I started that, but I walked away when I realized they were "infected" with computer bug.
During dealer check up, did they perform a smog check?
First of all if you are "using" oil that oil needs to get out of oil passages and end up somewhere else. Is there a smell of oil or burned oil in or outside your car? If you are parking it in the garage overnight, is there a profound smell of oil when you get in the garage in the morning? On first morning start up does your car emit bluish smoke out of the tail pipe? If you are burning oil at such a high rate your check engine light would come on and your spark plugs would be gunk-ed up with solidified carbon deposits from burned oils. Not to mention your tailpipe would emit serious smoke and burned oil smell. Your cat would first plug up and then melt down and throw a check engine light. Based on that I am sure you are not burning it.
I am sure you are leaking it somehow. Unfortunately Fit does not have a temperature gauge and temperature is a very valuable tool in diagnostics.
Is your coolant clean? Does it have oily brown spots in it?
Are all vacuum hoses properly connected? Do you have any sign of leaks under the car between engine and transmission or on the side where accessory belt is? I dealt with so many oil leaks where there were no puddles under the car!
What you need is a good independent Honda shop with experience in engine building (racing engine builds) that can perform good old fashioned diagnostic trouble shooting. Plugging a car to a computer is just another diagnostic aide, not the only way!
Finally, I know you are frustrated with Honda, but you were not dealing with a Honda, only a Honda dealer! If you do not won't to deal with your Fit problems, get another Honda! It is the most reliable vehicle in US market you can buy! Some of you will argue that with Toyota, but look under the hood and if you have any mechanic experience, you will be able to tell the difference in engineering approach between the two. Honda is engineering under the motto: "keep it simple stupid" while Toyota tends to use a more complex approach. Not that it is not working great for them, but why deal with it.
All other manufacturers have far complex strategy. I still help my friends with their cars and I can see their frustration.
Personally I like new VW's, but beside diesel Mercedes none of European cars seem to be reliable past 60-70K miles. Subaru and Mitsubishi is overly complex and much more expensive to maintain. Domestics? Well, I prefer to restrain on commenting on those! LOL! Is that my neighbor's Ford self combusting in the driveway from a faulty ignition switch that was already replaced 4 times, alas with the same crap?
Do not give up, pursue it peaceful way with a factory rep. Last resort get another Fit or Civic. There is no way you can end up with two faulty cars in a row. They will bend backwards to keep you as a customer.
If that does not work, get a local media involved. They will do everything to kiss your ass to stop it.
Lastly get a good professional lawyer.
Last edited by ciburri; Nov 2, 2007 at 02:23 PM.
When I get stuck in the middle of something like this I have a firm rule. Never take "NO" for someone who cannot say"YES". Quit messing around with these people and go way up the line at Honda. Have the attorney write a letter to a US executive at Honda and then see what happens. Make sure the details are correct and accurate. Do not threaten them, just indicate you want your car fixed. Believe me, the C suite pays attention to things like this. If that doesn't work, then make a clever video about your vehicle and it's problems and put it on YOUTUBE and send the link to Honda.
I recently took my Fit into Sam Swope Honda World in Louisville, Ky for a safety recall and brake check. Is was against my better judgement to take it there since I already have a history of issues with the dealership. Unfortunately it is one of only three dealerships in the Louisville area and it just happens to be 5 minutes from where I work. The other two dealership choices are 45 minutes away in opposite directions.
The dealership called me within an hour after dropping the car off to advise the wheel lugs have been stripped on my car. I advised there could be no way since the wheels had only been off the car once and that was to put on the HFP wheels and I did the job myself. They came up with a quick story that it looked like someone had tried to remove the wheel lock (Honda factory wheel locks) from each wheel causing the damage. I found this very questionable because I doubt a thief would try one wheel, give up and try the other three wheels.
I asked them to leave it and I would have someone else look at the issue. I was told that there was too much damage to the lugs and the car was not drivable. I told them to go ahead and fix the issue but I would like every bolt and nut taken off the car for my own inspection. I was then told one wheel could not be removed because the lug nut was stuck. I told the dealer to skip that wheel and I would deal with it later.
Four hours and $300 dollars later I got my car back from the dealership. The bolts are stripped but the locks were in brand new condition...they did not look tampered with. I'm pretty sure the idiots at the dealership tried to remove the locks with a air drill without using the key causing the damage to the lugs. I then tried to remove the "stuck" lug nut with the factory wrench and it came off within 6 turns!!! I reapplied the nut with no issue!! I even had my father try just so I wasn't missing anything! It then became very clear that I was dealing with a very crooked dealership. They caused the damage to my car, fed me some BS and stuck me with the bill.
I plead my case to the manager at the dealership and was blatantly told that it was a case of my word against his. If you live in the Louisville area, STAY AWAY FROM SAM SWOPE DEALERSHIPS!! They will only cause more damage to your car.
The dealership called me within an hour after dropping the car off to advise the wheel lugs have been stripped on my car. I advised there could be no way since the wheels had only been off the car once and that was to put on the HFP wheels and I did the job myself. They came up with a quick story that it looked like someone had tried to remove the wheel lock (Honda factory wheel locks) from each wheel causing the damage. I found this very questionable because I doubt a thief would try one wheel, give up and try the other three wheels.
I asked them to leave it and I would have someone else look at the issue. I was told that there was too much damage to the lugs and the car was not drivable. I told them to go ahead and fix the issue but I would like every bolt and nut taken off the car for my own inspection. I was then told one wheel could not be removed because the lug nut was stuck. I told the dealer to skip that wheel and I would deal with it later.
Four hours and $300 dollars later I got my car back from the dealership. The bolts are stripped but the locks were in brand new condition...they did not look tampered with. I'm pretty sure the idiots at the dealership tried to remove the locks with a air drill without using the key causing the damage to the lugs. I then tried to remove the "stuck" lug nut with the factory wrench and it came off within 6 turns!!! I reapplied the nut with no issue!! I even had my father try just so I wasn't missing anything! It then became very clear that I was dealing with a very crooked dealership. They caused the damage to my car, fed me some BS and stuck me with the bill.
I plead my case to the manager at the dealership and was blatantly told that it was a case of my word against his. If you live in the Louisville area, STAY AWAY FROM SAM SWOPE DEALERSHIPS!! They will only cause more damage to your car.
Damn! You have the absolute worst luck of anyone I have ever heard of. You seem to have a sign on your forehead, that is invisible to everyone except Louisville area Honda dealers. To them, the sign says "wipe your feet!". Based on your post that started this thread, your REALLY need an attorney.
Here's a tech. tip- assuming that you get the lug nut/wheel stud situation resolved, when you get it home, remove each lug nut and wheel lock, and apply a small amount of "anti-seize" compound to each stud. Then replace the nuts and torque them to specs. (I use 90 lbs.ft.). The anti-seize compound will help to prevent accidental cross-threading of the nuts by repair shop people with no abilities to do anything properly.
The lug nut issue almost seems to be intentional- maybe the folks involved with the lies about the oil burning problem just have it in for you.
Good luck (you need as much as you can find).
Here's a tech. tip- assuming that you get the lug nut/wheel stud situation resolved, when you get it home, remove each lug nut and wheel lock, and apply a small amount of "anti-seize" compound to each stud. Then replace the nuts and torque them to specs. (I use 90 lbs.ft.). The anti-seize compound will help to prevent accidental cross-threading of the nuts by repair shop people with no abilities to do anything properly.
The lug nut issue almost seems to be intentional- maybe the folks involved with the lies about the oil burning problem just have it in for you.
Good luck (you need as much as you can find).



