What's a Good deal on a fit? APR?
What's a Good deal on a fit? APR?
Hi All,
I'm getting ready to buy a fit base MT, looking for the best deal. I see they don't move much on the price, but what's a good APR for someone with very good credit? What can I expect?
Any tips while at the dealer?
Thanks!
I'm getting ready to buy a fit base MT, looking for the best deal. I see they don't move much on the price, but what's a good APR for someone with very good credit? What can I expect?
Any tips while at the dealer?
Thanks!
Financing my 08 Sport Auto for 5.49%
I am financing my 08 Fit Sport Auto for 5.49% / 60 months at the Chevron Federal Credit Union. Consider a local credit union and you can usually find a much better deal than a bank (YMMV).
In the Houston, Texas area, see...
ChevronTexaco Credit Union
HFCU - Houston Federal - It's Your Credit Union!
Smart Financial Credit Union
In the Houston, Texas area, see...
ChevronTexaco Credit Union
HFCU - Houston Federal - It's Your Credit Union!
Smart Financial Credit Union
I am financing my 08 Fit Sport Auto for 5.49% / 60 months at the Chevron Federal Credit Union. Consider a local credit union and you can usually find a much better deal than a bank (YMMV).
In the Houston, Texas area, see...
ChevronTexaco Credit Union
HFCU - Houston Federal - It's Your Credit Union!
Smart Financial Credit Union
In the Houston, Texas area, see...
ChevronTexaco Credit Union
HFCU - Houston Federal - It's Your Credit Union!
Smart Financial Credit Union
Ditto that - I am getting 4.9% for 48 from CU here in Eastern PA - and don't let them argue about not making any money if they come down off of MSRP. A little research goes a long way to the point I am getting a Fit under the invoice price...
Dealer holdback at Edmunds car price guide
Went through my parents credit and got 3% for 36 months.
I payed $16750 before ttl for a sport a/t and the base model a/t is $1200 cheaper ( what they told me ) and for a m/t subtract another $800 ( again what they told me )
I payed $16750 before ttl for a sport a/t and the base model a/t is $1200 cheaper ( what they told me ) and for a m/t subtract another $800 ( again what they told me )
A good deal on any vehicle is a price as close to invoice as possible and if you have a trade-in less the correct appraisal for condition and mileage. And of course less any rebates on the vehicle.
You find the invoice (wholesale) & perhaps rebates on sites like Edmunds (new cars) or NADA, KBB, etc (used).
When you take the difference and add licensing, titles, and sales taxes you'll have your price.
Note the value 'as close to invoice' also shows the profit on your 'new' car the dealer wants; the amount higher than invoice is the 'profit' before adding profits from financing (he gets a kick-back from loaning financier) and from inflated licensing and titling fees.
Fits are being mettered out carefully and worse with the gas crunch there are prices higher than MSRP out there.
As far as interest is concerned, your credit score (easily obtained by dealers and banks, credit unions, etc) is the controlling factor. How quickly and routinely (no late payments, etc) you have paid for things calculate your credit score. If you don't have a good co-signer helps, otherwise youre an unknown and interest rate will depend on how hard the loaner wants your sale. Interst rates run the gamut right now from zero to 13%. Anything under 6% is acceptable.
Lesson 1 finished.
You find the invoice (wholesale) & perhaps rebates on sites like Edmunds (new cars) or NADA, KBB, etc (used).
When you take the difference and add licensing, titles, and sales taxes you'll have your price.
Note the value 'as close to invoice' also shows the profit on your 'new' car the dealer wants; the amount higher than invoice is the 'profit' before adding profits from financing (he gets a kick-back from loaning financier) and from inflated licensing and titling fees.
Fits are being mettered out carefully and worse with the gas crunch there are prices higher than MSRP out there.
As far as interest is concerned, your credit score (easily obtained by dealers and banks, credit unions, etc) is the controlling factor. How quickly and routinely (no late payments, etc) you have paid for things calculate your credit score. If you don't have a good co-signer helps, otherwise youre an unknown and interest rate will depend on how hard the loaner wants your sale. Interst rates run the gamut right now from zero to 13%. Anything under 6% is acceptable.
Lesson 1 finished.
Last edited by mahout; May 7, 2008 at 09:42 AM.
Probably not relevant to the OP since I'm in Canada and I didn't lease, but this is a global forum 
Canada has a mid-range trim, the LX, which MSRP's for $17380 for the manual. The invoice price is supposedly $16337.
(That's right, despite our dollar being nearly at parity the car companies are still ripping us off... get this, delivery/inspection charge is $1295!)
Working backwards my final total negotiated total, I figure I paid about $16670 CAD, or about 2% over invoice.
We also have a promo on now if we finance through them--0.9% per year for a 3 year term.
Wish I could've wrangled remote keyless entry into the deal, but at $250 pre-tax, I can deal without it.

Canada has a mid-range trim, the LX, which MSRP's for $17380 for the manual. The invoice price is supposedly $16337.
(That's right, despite our dollar being nearly at parity the car companies are still ripping us off... get this, delivery/inspection charge is $1295!)
Working backwards my final total negotiated total, I figure I paid about $16670 CAD, or about 2% over invoice.
We also have a promo on now if we finance through them--0.9% per year for a 3 year term.
Wish I could've wrangled remote keyless entry into the deal, but at $250 pre-tax, I can deal without it.
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