heater problems
I'm getting dizzy bouncing all over this forum you know! I've observed that one person giving positive rep does not = rep power going up by 1. I think you have to get MULTIPLE positive reps for your rep power to go up by 1.... sheesh....
If you click at the top of the page on "User CP" it brings you to your page. At the bottom is all the feedback people have left for you. You'll find my kind words there....
You know once you get those Pufferfit decal orders coming in and mailing them out, your rep power will SKYROCKET. Just further incentive....
If you click at the top of the page on "User CP" it brings you to your page. At the bottom is all the feedback people have left for you. You'll find my kind words there....
You know once you get those Pufferfit decal orders coming in and mailing them out, your rep power will SKYROCKET. Just further incentive....

Or, I think some posters here say, "+ rep for you" but don't even know that there's a little button to press on the right side.
To them it's like saying, "You rock!!", but I have nothing to show for it.
To them it's like saying, "You rock!!", but I have nothing to show for it.
Oh well that's just plain wrong. The tiny little scale on the top right-hand corner above a poster's name...you click on that, select positive or negative rep, then can add a comment. Surely people here know that when they say "+ rep", right? 'Cause that would be just plain wrong....
More thorough explanation of my heater issue/resolution
Doing some googling since now my curiosity has been peaked as to how my heating issue was linked to my block heater. Most 'block' heaters consist of small electrical heating elements mounted into a replacement 'frost plug' installed on the engine block. The heating element reaches into the cooling jacket surrounding the cylinders so that it is directly immersed in the coolant full-time, whether the unit is ever plugged in or not. When the block heater is plugged in, the element begins to heat the coolant. Since warm coolant rises, this creates some movement of the coolant to warm the whole block/head.
Found installation instructions here: http://www.jayhondaaccessories.com/Accessory%20Installation/2007/Fit/Engine%20Block%20Heater.pdf
Found installation instructions here: http://www.jayhondaaccessories.com/Accessory%20Installation/2007/Fit/Engine%20Block%20Heater.pdf
They have to drain the coolant out of the radiator for installation. They then, obviously, refill the system with recommended coolant after the block heater is installed. Quote "Follow the instructions described in the service manual to fill and bleed the cooling system. Check the coolant reservoir for correct level and check the cooling system for signs of leakage. Repair as necessary."
Evidently what happened in my case was that the coolant was not properly refilled, hence impacting my car's heating system. Makes sense NOW and M4psycho hit the nail on the head when he offered: "It looks like this is a common issue if there is air in your coolant system/not enough coolant fluid. This prevents good circulation while you're idling 'cause either air is blocking the way or there's not enough fluid to flow through the heater core (when you're idling). This isn't a problem when you're moving because everything is forced through quite nicely. To remedy this you can bleed out the cooling line while topping it off while the car is idling. (Open the rad cap, idle the car for 5-10 minutes and keep topping up the rad fluid until it doesn't drop anymore)."
txmatt offered: "Apparently they thought it was somehow related to the coolant/cooling system since they attempted to bleed it and added antifreeze (a/f). I'm guessing the block heater heats the coolant in the block and they likely drained all or part of the coolant when they originally installed it and didn't get the system fully bled when they refilled the coolant/antifreeze."
You guys are GOOD! 

sounds good fitcanadagirl. wat you can do next time is check if there's
any coolant in the reserve while the engine is cold. if it's empty open
the radiator cap and see inside if there's any coolant to the bottom
of the neck of the opening. if no, add coolant and fill the reserve to
the max. let the engine run for a few minutes and race the engine
to 3K RPM (in park or neutral) for 10sec 3-4 times. then shut off.
let the engine cool down and then check the reserve and radiator
cap opening. repeat as necessary. it's just a quick way to get
the air out of the system... i didnt' mention this earlier cause you
were going to take it in anyways and opening the radiator cap
while the engine is hot can be very dangerous... if you knew how
to bleed it, chances are you would've already tried it right? hahaha.
any coolant in the reserve while the engine is cold. if it's empty open
the radiator cap and see inside if there's any coolant to the bottom
of the neck of the opening. if no, add coolant and fill the reserve to
the max. let the engine run for a few minutes and race the engine
to 3K RPM (in park or neutral) for 10sec 3-4 times. then shut off.
let the engine cool down and then check the reserve and radiator
cap opening. repeat as necessary. it's just a quick way to get
the air out of the system... i didnt' mention this earlier cause you
were going to take it in anyways and opening the radiator cap
while the engine is hot can be very dangerous... if you knew how
to bleed it, chances are you would've already tried it right? hahaha.
Bingo! If I have any issues, I'll just bring it to my Honda dealership especially while my car is still under warranty...
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anniemcu
2nd Generation (GE 08-13)
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Nov 22, 2009 03:01 PM





