Personately i only use the newer Fram Extra Guard, Napa Gold (Wix) or K&N oil filters!! I had problems in the past with the orange can and Chinese knock-off so now i stay away from these!!!

Marko!

 

The mixing of Coke syrup and water is accurate within 1% relative no matter what the container its sold in. Any difference in per oz price is due to differences in container costs and the volume itself, not the coke mixture, for that line. Ever compared the cost of 2 liter coke bottle with 10 oz bottle or can at the same market condition ?
The cost from different manufacurers has a difference of course that depends on sales volume (like 10 oz vs 2 liter coke), the cost of manufacture, and the cost of materialsand naturally how much profit you make as ddetermined by market competition and advertising budget.

 

I'm currently using the green "hamp" synergy oil filter with Amsoil XL 5w20 oil! The car runs very good now, I was previously running mobil 1 with a standard honda filter from the dealer!

 

The Honda oil filter and Mobil 1 filter were said to cost the same price, I don't think so. I pay about $12.00 for the Mobil 1 filter. The K&N is about another $1.00 but I've seen now that Royal Purple offers a synthetic oil filter that has 100% synthetic media and I'm going to that on my next change. Not to start another oil change debate, but with 100% synthetic media, I feel VERY confindent going 15k with my Mobil 1/Royal Purple synthetic combo, especially after seeing what convential Honda oil/oil filter looked like at 8,400 miles

 

You certainly can get away with it, just seems like when you are going to pay ~17k for a car, that changing the oil a couple times a year would be a pittance..

It helps of course if you achieve that 15k in less than a year. If you try a 15k/year OCI can you take pictures of your oil after, or send it for analysis.. it's about the same expense as an oil change. I would really like to see what the oil coming out of a well maintained Fit every 15k looks like and has absorbed.. there's usually 8-10 elements that analysts concern themselves with, and sometimes only one or two will show up in trace amounts, sometimes you'll get the lot. Blackstone Labs would be a good one to start with!

Your environment plays a big difference in when the oil should be changed as well.

Check this out and make up your own mind :


Changing the oil and filter make for the single best thing you can do for the car besides let it warm up and cool down every time its been running.

There is also water vapor and other contaminants from the combustion process that accumulate over that period of time inside the crankcase. These can also make the oil more acidic over time.

15k would probably be the absolute max you should try (not necessarily could), unless you are running amsoil or similar and either using an amsoil ae filter or changing your filters every 7500miles and that is with OCD running/driving habits.

Edit: You could also try finding and installing either a remote dual-filter adapter for our oil filter housings, or just running a second external filter! In addition to running synthetic media filters of course.

Many big rig dispatches that have all highway fleets do this and often go 10k miles between changes, and mind you diesels are much harder on oil, but again, they are all running at constant highway speeds for the majority of their 500k overhaul intervals.

If this resulted in any ill effects the service/operation managers would not put up with the extra costs.

But with that said, I'll close with this: as part of the basis for my recommending people change their oil using the service manual's severe duty cycles:

 

They often run on the same oil for 50,000 miles or more. The commercial trucks' diesel engines often go over a million miles before overhauls.

 

This is true.

Some do and with success. Several new trucks, Volvo and International in particular were recommending 25k, or based on how many gallons of fuel they have consumed. Many just test their oil and change based on the results. At 12 gallons per change can't say I blame them.

Class 8 maintenance is done on a somewhat more flexible schedule then cars, they put on like 10x the mileage but are treated better on average in terms of operating procedure and inspection.

 

You know, there are two or three on this forum who really, really do believe that.
And very little else.

 

My truck holds about 45 quarts of oil and has a dual filter which filters down to 30 microns and a by pass in the same filter. The truck carries 80000 down the road at 65 mph for hours which is hard on the motor but not as hard as stop and go and extended idling and 30-40 engine starts a day. On the road it gets 6.5 but around town 3-4 mpg under the most severe driving. My truck a day runs for 15-17 hours running between me and the other driver. There is a 1 hour between when I get out and the other driver gets in and uses 100 gallons or more of fuel a day with around 650 miles. The older tech trucks and fuels would last 1 million miles but the new tech is still uncertain, Ive talk to some truck drivers and the new engine was gone at 300000 miles and if the truck sits because of the recession they leak oil very bad. The new motors run hotter and get worse mpg compared to 8 years ago. They have 2 fuel filters because of water in the fuel and some of the brand new trucks have another additive thats needed for exhaust call Diesel exhaust fluid. My truck doesn't have that but it injects fuel in to the exhaust to burn the carbon off the porcelain filter in the exhaust stack. They used to change the oil at 20000 miles but now closer to 30000. I have 90000 on my truck since April and the oil was change twice and wont get changed again until 110000 miles.
A truck can idle for a hour and only use a gallon of fuel. They outlawed idling for the most part but they never been in a 125 degree truck and try to drive, the heat that comes off the motor is a lot during the summer and in the winter the heat is needed because if you never tried to start a truck at -20 degrees it frozen and the fuel and oil is thick and can only be pulled started or thawed out, then you have the air system which always have some moisture in it and need to keep pressure in the tanks or the brake chamber will ice up or blow a chamber. Fuel prices are high because of the new tech and GTL gas to liquid tech., which now applied to oil.

 

They use urea IIRC..

 

I will probably change my oil every 10k, unless I can be convinced that the Mobil 1 extended life REALLY can go 15k w/o an issue. Right now I run 0w30 Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 oil filter. I have a 45 minute drive to work and the lights are kinda far and inbetween. I don't abuse my car, let it warm up a little bit now that its colder out and drive the speed limit. As far as the environment goes, well, I'm in a suburb of Chicago and drive through a rural area to get to work, but I do drive past a Citgo refinery, but for the most part its rural, business and subdivisions.

I know it sounds picky, but I believe the 100% synthetic media in the Royal Purple filter would be that much better for leaving the oil in there for 10-15K. I've been back home to Detroit 6x's, been down to the Dragon/Cherahola Skyway in Tenn/N.C. and have made 2 trips out on route 66 this year, so my car has alot of freeway, open road miles on it. About 300 of the miles were "hard" miles while on the Skyway and Dragon, running anywhere from 4-6k on the tach

Those pics of the Honda oil filter show why I only run the good stuff in my car, the extra couple bucks is well worth it, the proof is right there. I will do the oil test when I change my oil out next time, this should tell me one way or the other if what I think I'm doing is good and safe and economical for the car, no need to dump it out if its still strong and doing its job Not being "green" here, just smart, trust me, I'm about as far away from "them people" as possible.

 

Mobil one extended can go up to 15000 but really not needed. The oil your using is going to save you money in mpg. The only thing I would do is use 0w20 and save more money. Its what Honda recommends and will flow better in the cold and wont stay on the parts that long compared to 30 weight. I used 0w20 a few time before dealer would not put it in because of a shortage and then they said its for the Hybrids. I never had a problem with it. That would be the only synthetic oil I will use. Mobil 1 Test Results

RP oil filter is a good one but there are others too. Honda oil filter is adequate for the Motor and the new clean fuels and oils keep deposits down in the motor.

 

I'm pretty sure our car calls for 5w30, so with 0w30 its still getting the 30 weight the mfg calls for and as far as the 0 compared to 5, well, that's only for start up, so IMO, the 0 is even better. Don't know about using the 0w20.

Now those pics of the Honda oil filter and Mobil 1, the proof is right there, why would you wanna use an inferior filter when going with synthetic oil, your just not going the whole 10 yards. Yes, standard oil filters do their job, this I know. The job I used to have had me taking care of the maintence on our vans, GMC Safari's and we bought a new one back in 97' and when we discontinued van service in the spring of 2005, it had 656k and still had the original engine and trans. The oil pump went out at 80k and that was it as far as the engine goes. I did switch to synthetic because it saved us money as I would change the oil once a month instead of twice a month. This van did about 1500 miles a week and was almost all highway. I believe I went with synthetic at about 300k but I don't remember. How about that trans lasting that long, highway miles or not that's pretty impressive. For that I would service the trans with the filter and gasket every 30k religiously, but once they got the T-Tech machine I would mix it in, every other service was the filter and gasket and then the T-Tech, back and fourth. When it was finally retired that van made 129 visits to my buddies Valvoline

I called GM when it hit some mileage benchmark and they offered me a free oil change, I thought they'd like to check out the van and see what they didn right. Not sure if I'll have the Fit long enough to rack up a half a million miles but I'm going to take care of it just like I did that Safari!

 

Mobil 1 when it first came out was a 20 weight oil. Cars needed a thicker weight oil combined with the right additives that worked together. They had problems when it first came out but had them fixed a long time ago too. Honda started to use 20 wt oil again I think in 2003 but 30 weight would be OK.

Filters dont matter either because if they restrict to much oil the bearings dont get lubed so then it runs in bypass mode, the other problem is oil pressure in the filter it could blow out but the filter dont filter down that much when new and thats why Honda says to leave it on for 2 oil changes A/B on the MM. If you notice the Fram filter element would move and allow better oil flow and hold more dirt. There is no correct answer only personal experiences and problems.

 

im running M110 right now cause i had one laying around with 5W20 castro cheezo dino oil. i can't tell the difference between my factory filter + M1 synthetic.

im no longer running expensive oils in my GD or GE especially if im going to follow the maintenance reminder. factory filter + watever's major brand on sale dino 5W20 for me.

 

Where and when did you get this misinformation that you repeating here? Sorry for my tone, but napthenic hydrocarbons have not been used in motor oils for decades. Modern Group III paraffinics are synthetic. 7500 miles is a typical change interval with so-called "dino" (not dyno) oils. I've had lab analysis done on conventional oils such as Chevron Delo 400 (group II paraffinic) at 8000 miles in a high-revving BMW with no evidence of breakdown at all. The four-ball test that Amsoil used to promote does not simulate any moving part in an engine, gearbox maybe, but not engine.

Use a 5W-20 GF-5 oil in your Honda, and change it according to the meter in the odometer. All modern oils, especially 5W-20 are really synthetic blends, as Group I or even Group II paraffinics simply will not pass the qualification tests without synthetic correction fluid blended in. If you live in an area of sub-zero winters, then a 0W-20 full synthetic may be of value for cold cranking.

Please provide documentation of the 3% hp and mileage claim, thanks.

 

Woot! Post of the year.

 

I am amazed anyone would put a walmart filter on their Honda. The smaller the engine, the higher the revolutions to equal a speed. My Fit at 68mpg is approx 2800 rpm. My vw new beetle at 68 mpg is approx 2500 rpm and my jeep with the 5.2 l engine is at 1900 rpm for the same speed. I want the absolute best oil in my small engines. Mobil one full synthetic Ext Performance with a mobil one EP filter. I would use amsol but I haven't found a location locally to get it. I plan on reaching 200,000 miles and more. Also, location is important. Synthetic oil moves freely at -20 F and petro oil is almost so thick that every start at below 0 temps does harm to the engine. My Honda lives in Iowa and below zero in the wintertime (on a normal year unlike this one) is very common. Heck winter is 5 months long here.

My reasoning is from research done concerning oil, and it is just my opinion.

 

Well, different strokes. Cut one open. They aren't horribly made. My car is at 90k w minimal oil changes and no consumption

 

you mean mph? I'd love 68 mpg!