IMO, it's a nifty little helpful tool that would pay for itself in the long run.

my wishlist for UG... to have a wireless radio to read tire pressures with low pressure warning... that's just me tho

 

wouldn't there be some way to tap into the sensor that reads info from the tpms'? It sounds logical to me but of course it prob wouldnt work haha.

 

Wow, 2 days and my UG is here. We'll see how it goes.

 

I'm quite positive that the stock TPMS in our cars are standalone and not wired in and to the ECU. It communicates via RF.

 

So, here's a question... what controls the TPMS lights on the dash? Are they directly from the TPMS? Or is it from the ECU, simply relaying info from the TPMS?

In either case, something dealing with the TPMS does go through the OBD II port (since thats how the IDs get programmed)... so that begs another question, does the TPMS (via ECU or directly) transmitt any pressure info through that port.

This could one of those "manufacturer specific" gauges that UG doesn't support, like the transmission oil temp.

 

pulled from wiki:

"When a TPMS sensor is replaced, it is important to understand your vehicle. Every manufacturer has a different method to reprogram the vehicle. Some vehicles simply reprogram themselves while you drive. Others require the user to perform an action, such as turning the key and pressing a pedal, or using the key-fob to trigger a re-learn mode. Not all vehicles may be placed into a re-learn mode— some require an extra interface to the vehicles OBDII/CAN-BUS to speak with the vehicle ECU, BCM or other device. Vehicles with this interface require the user to return to the dealership for a tire rotation.

Direct-sensor battery-less TPMS, such as the VisiTyre system, are zero-maintenance systems that do not require any recalibration or specialist OBD port "Learn Tools" after tire replacement or tire rotation.

Equipment suppliers are now making available an inexpensive unit that can read the TPMS sensor ID numbers from the ECU and make changes to those ID numbers stored in the ECU. This allows the vehicle owner who purchases one of these units to manually change the TPMS sensor ID numbers which is useful when changing from summer to winter wheels and vice versa. At an auto shop cost of approximately $40 (as of January 2010) to activate the TPMS sensor ID numbers, a TPMS setting tool can pay for itself within 2 years. Activation tools are also available."

With those and since we don't need to run to the dealer everytime we do a tire rotation... it is to my understanding is that, in our car, the ECU only stores ID in it's memory for safe keeping, so to speak. This is for the ease of retrieving TPMS information rather than holding a card like that of our headunit code or taking out the TPMS modules or sticking it somewhere in the body/chasis.

It's only after pulling ID infos from the ECU memory can you start reprogramming TPMS (if you have new sensors installed) standalone TPMS reprogramming tool.

What triggers the TPMS light and low pressure indicator is still contained between the RF transmitter from the sensor and the RF receiver.

 

The ID is part of the signal thats transmitted. Which is why there are some systems that specifically look for an ID for a location. The ATEQ Quickset tool treats it as such when you put the IDs in, even though the car's TPMS system for the Fit doesn't much care.

The ID isn't for "anti-theft" like the radio codes, but for the "handshake" that occurs when transmitting and receiving signal codes. To make sure it's not getting jibberish and treating that junk as actual data. When a system relearns... it picks up that ID.

And you misunderstood my question about the lights. If the TPMS module is separate from the ECU... then, does it have a direct line to the ACTUAL light on the dash? Or, does it send another signal to the ECU, telling it to turn on the light.

 

The headunit code to be physically tucked away for safe keeping was just used as an example... the TPMS ID is tucked safely in the ECU's memory

For the last part, a good test would be to disable the communication between the TPMS via removing the related fuse to throw the light on... then see if the ECU is throwing a code using the UG or any code reader.

 

Installed my UG last night, i havent changed any gauges yet because i diddnt have time, but i thought id show you guys my placement

 

Ordered mine earlier this morning. Not sure where they ship from but I should have it sometime next week, I would think.

 

If that's the case for testing, then it definitely does.

If you search for the PDI, it mentions that if the TPMS transmitter isn't activated during the PDI, it throws various DTCs.

UG doesn't list TPMS as one of their 75 gauges. So, even if the code were accessible via OBD II port, the UG wouldn't see it. Like I said, I think this falls under them not supporting it via "manufacturer specific gauge".

 

looks good i may hop on one of these soon. at least when the new firmware comes out

 

Price may go up by then. Firmware will always change.

 

true that. c'mon tax return!

 

Mine arrived yesterday, so I'll mount it this weekend. I'm just too busy to do it until then. I'm looking forward to using this.

 

Hehe, so I did end up ordering one and got it on Tuesday.

But I have no idea what to do with it... the only gauges I've been paying attention to is the TTE and DTE. I think I'm gonna move those to the bigger display locations. I also changed the RPM alarm from 4000 to 6000. To be honest, I have no idea what RPM to set the alarm to, just picked an arbitrary number less then redline (since redline just cuts you off anyway in stock).

 

Set the RPM at a desired shift point, saves watching the tak.

 

If only I were that consistent. I just shift willy-nilly.

On one delivery I might drive "economically," on the next (5 min later)... "pedal 2 da metal!"

My mood changes as fast as the traffic lights.

But in general, I don't really pay attention to the tach anyway. I had to learn to drive stick on a car with no tach some 15 years ago, and it stuck. I'll glimpse at it more out of curiosity than for shift points.

 

I was thinking more like high end shift points. The 4K default has worked okay for me. Reminds me on the casual basis and if I'm pushing it I know when I've passed that mark.

Right now I have a page set with STFT-LTFT, o2-MAF, Timing-Cat. Interesting to watch while I was seeing if fuel grade effected fuel trim, but learned it doesn't...

Next thing to watch will be the EGR flow, Evap psi and Evap Purge. Not sure what that will tell me, but it might open up another learning curve.

 

I hear 'ya Goobers. All these new cars have over-rev cutoffs anyway. Just hard to picture redlining a Fit unless maybe hardcore competition or don't know any better... Hey, '57 Chevy Bel Air inline 6 column shift for me bud What tach?

Hey KC, my UG haven't made it to the Fit yet. Hooked it up to my WRX just to check on my mpg and its still there... Haven't played much with the settings yet either. I think its a good buy though as Evil said.