hey guys- Has this happend to anyone ?

I went in for my emisions test ( they dont call it a smog test in NY) the other day and was told the weirdest thing. My '12 Fit could not be tested or produced poor or no results because apparently i needed to drive the car around like 100 miles before bringing it for a re-test. He asked me if i had disconnected the battery which i did, about 3 months ago when i made an out of town trip for 1.5 months but since that time i must have put atleast 400-500 miles, so what gives ?

The strange thing is the customer before me was given exactly the same answer to his nissan test. I have 35K original miles on the car, there are no warning lights present when driving.

Does anyone know why my car was not " fit for a test" ? Ive never heard this line before about driving the car 100 miles or so...what are we attempting to reset ?

My tags expire in less than 10 days and i dont really drive much maybe 10-15 miles a day.

Any advice cheerfully accepted

 

If the car has an emissions light on, some people try to game the system by disconnecting the battery before going in to get tested. The car needs to run a while to get enough data from the sensors to see if there is a fault. Until then, it's not at a ready state.

That's how it was explained to me by my friend who is a service manager at a local Toyota dealership.

 

hey guys- Has this happend to anyone ?

I went in for my emisions test ( they dont call it a smog test in NY) the other day and was told the weirdest thing. My '12 Fit could not be tested or produced poor or no results because apparently i needed to drive the car around like 100 miles before bringing it for a re-test. He asked me if i had disconnected the battery which i did, about 3 months ago when i made an out of town trip for 1.5 months but since that time i must have put atleast 400-500 miles, so what gives ?

The strange thing is the customer before me was given exactly the same answer to his nissan test. I have 35K original miles on the car, there are no warning lights present when driving.

Does anyone know why my car was not " fit for a test" ? Ive never heard this line before about driving the car 100 miles or so...what are we attempting to reset ?

My tags expire in less than 10 days and i dont really drive much maybe 10-15 miles a day.

Any advice cheerfully accepted

 

I see, well I had no such intentions in my case. The car has 35K..there are no known issues with it. As I mentioned, no warning lights come on..if it did I would have known why.

 

Sorry if I reposted inquiry twice..

 

I think you'll just have to drive the car until it's at a ready state. Not sure if there is any indicator when it's at a ready state.

 

I guess I'll try and put on 100+ miles before going for a re-test. Do we know any additional causes for this " non-ready" state?

thanks

 

I have the same experience and I followed this procedure and it made my car ready for emission test. You need to know which readiness code you need to complete.


See my comment #2 on this thread
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...-question.html


See my comment #17 on this thread
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...007-sport.html

http://www.hfitinfo.com/hofi-914.html

 

Utsug - thanks for the detailed headsup..

Wow - didn't realize it was this complicated. Let me check the green light/5 blinks scenario and see where I stand..for the record Ive only put 30 miles on the car since I got the bad news.

 

You have a set of "Not ready" indicators stored in the PCM/ECU. These all get turned to "not ready" when you issue a clear all codes command or remove the battery. Those get turned to "ready" by driving the car under various conditions. Over the years and over various brands of vehicles, the requirements to set them to ready has varied.

So go to AutoZone or to someone with a code reader (I use my Scan Gauge) and you can figure out which indicator(s) has not set to ready. With that information you can use Google to find out exactly what to do to get it to set to ready.

 

those obd2 scanning tests are so faking stupid.

 

n9cv- thanks for weighing in..Ok i'll stop by AutoZone tomorrow and see what codes it pulls.

kenchan - Would a higher end (Auto Zone uses Bosch i believe) OBD reader suffice ?

 

All this is explained in the owner's manual (you know, that book you never read, that's propping up the short leg of the kitchen table).

 

I just checked..I do have those 5 blinking lights..sigh! All this because I disconnected the battery?? I thought the fit was a "simple mans car" lol!

 

just drive and get on the highway where you can go upto 60 mph before your inspection with some local driving. drive for at least 30 mins, you should be fine. key is to hit different speeds to trigger the readiness requirements. you don't need to drive 100 miles.

 

xxryu139xx - i see..then the key thing would be trying to find a freeway that is free of stop and go traffic..a tall order in NYC but not impossible. Of the 30 minutes you suggested, what portion of it should be spent clocking the 60mph speed ? Just want an idea of how to divide my time between freeway/street driving. I guess the good news in all this is, you'll know if you're test ready or not before geting to to the testing station so i'll be sure to check the blinking engine lights whilst key is on the "on" position.

 

Probably. I use my scan gauge and it shows the readiness ready or not ready whenever I ask it for codes.

If I want to specifically know which ones are not set, I have to enter a second text stream to retrieve that information.

I believe on most OBD2 readers it is a much simpler process because this (not ready) is a very common problem. I also believe how you display them probably is different between brands of readers.

I stopped by a friends foreign car shop one time with my Blazer to pull some ABS codes. While we were doing it he commented that I had an Evap readiness indicator not set. So it was easy for him to see on his very expensive brand scanner that also does ABS and SRS. We were doing ABS when he noticed it.

Sorry I'm not more help but I do not know the exact answer due to lack of experience.

 

While you might get lucky and clear them, each indicator has a different set of requirements to clear it. As an example the evap has to be three starts for an absolutely cold engine (usually sitting over night but not below 32 degrees) where the engine and outside air temperature are with in 5 or 7 degrees. There is another one that requires a cold start then run engine up to temperature and drive at a steady 55 for 3 or 5 minutes. After that coast down to 30 for 2 or 3 minutes and then back to 55 again for another 2 or 3 minutes. All the time not pressing on the brake.

This is why finding out exactly which indicator is not ready and then looking it up will tell you exactly what you have to do to clear it.

I have seen some vehicles clear all of them in under a week. I had one that did not clear for about 2.5 months. Without the reader, all I can say is try driving it. That is what most people do. They will clear eventually.

 

i use a cheap actron reader from like 2 decades ago and it can clear all codes.

 

My guess is from the testing facilities viewpoint you don't need another reason. If disconnecting the battery removes information needed or required by the testing facility, which evidently it does, then I guess the moral of the story is, try not to have reason or disconnect your battery before the test.

Probably became a requirement because of too many people trying to cheat the test by purposely clearing information.

Sounds like a real pain, but I don't think you have much choice but to try to go on that longer drive.

Kind of interesting because evidently the test, is relying a LOT on what the vehicle is telling it...it has done.
Which would probably explain why and how, VW was so easily able to fraudulently program their vehicles to disingenuously pass emissions tests.