Car buying/selling challenges and solutions (my incompetent article)

1. Cars with low mileage and nearly full gas tank are selling faster than similarly priced cars with higher mileage or nearly empty gas tanks. Low mileage is not an indicator of good condition (my car looks and probably drives worse that many cars with much higher mileage)

2. Best cars are sold among relatives /friends/ coworkers or within local community; beware of the cars that do not match the neighborhood they are displayed for sell (such as older Lexus 400 in rundown neighborhood or a vintage classic in the middle of desert)

3. I would stay away with car that has “brand new “engine or transmission, especially if engine or transmission failure is uncommon for this particular make/model; this indicates problem with the owner who abused or neglected the car; you will be fixing the mess he made for the length of ownership. In addition “brand new” components may be low quality or installed by incompetent places

4. On the other hand, and evidence of replaced parts that commonly failed on this particular car model indicate good care, provided that the parts are of good quality and properly installed (on GD3 Fit this will be starter, ignition coils and transmission pressure switches).

5. Clean driver’s seat (of mismatching color) in otherwise filthy interior, sparkling clean engine bay in the car with faded exterior and torn interior would probably turn me away

6. The car flipper may sell you amateur fixer upper with fake smog certificate, too many unpaid tickets and/or some other issues. Buy at own risk!

7. Rare models of special interest ( Camry or Volvo station wagons, Toyota Celica Supra) are commonly sold by flippers for high $$$$ regardless of condition (often first started after 10 years of sitting under shed)

8. In general, a three year old Japanese car with over a 100,000 miles will have fewer problems than the same car with 70,000 miles after 10 years

9. Driving car in extreme weather condition (driving to work with temperatures around 30 F and driving home with temperatures in 80s) makes the car age and wear faster

10. While condition of major mechanical components is critical, the buyer will purchase the car if:

· The key unlocks the driver’s door

· Door handles are present and functional

· The driver seat is not torn or broken

· Key unlocks ignition and car starts without great deal of effort

· There is minimum vibration at steering wheel, seat, pedals

· Driver’s window works

· No jerking when shifting gears, no shudder while braking

· No steering or braking pull (equally bad toe on both sides will eat the tires, but the car will still go straight!)

· Interior, exterior and under hood conditions will match!



11. Most probable buyer is the one who lost the car and needs replacement:

· Stolen car owner will look for the car that is not attractive to thieves and has better locks

· The person who lost control and wrecked the car will look for one with good handling and road holding

· The person who got rear ended will look for a car or SUV “strong like a tank” (old American , car , Volvo 240 and so)

· The person whose car got vandalized will buy my car that came from the front line :)

 

if suv's are "strong like tank"

would that mean, a honda fit would be .... "strong like bull" ?

 

Strong like a hamster :)

 

Maybe Mighty Mouse?

 

You should see how quiet sellers get when I ask for regular maintenance records.

i.e. 3rd gen Integra with 180,000 kms. "So when did you change the timing belt and water pump?" *crickets*

 

Ironically, factory installed timing belt may last long time/mileage!