Sometimes when we lock the car the central locks work, other times they
don't. I was going to pull the assemblies out of each door to see if the
connections were tight. Anything in particular would cause this?

 

rye guy wrote:
> Sometimes when we lock the car the central locks work, other times they
> don't. I was going to pull the assemblies out of each door to see if the
> connections were tight. Anything in particular would cause this?

-----------------

If you've never lubed the tumblers of the five locks on your car, pick
up a tiny blue can of aerosol LockEase from a locksmith or hardware
store. Using the tiny long nozzle, hold the 'trap door' of the door
locks open and hose them, then use the key to wiggle the lock around and
around to wash the graphite in. Do the ignition and glove box also.
(that's the other two). You'll need to wipe your keys off for a few
days, since graphite is very messy, but your locks will work like the
day you car was made.

I've had a can for about four years and I've done seven or eight cars
with it. Works every time. (I wish i owned shares )

'Curly'

 

rye guy wrote:
> Sometimes when we lock the car the central locks work, other times they
> don't. I was going to pull the assemblies out of each door to see if the
> connections were tight. Anything in particular would cause this?

If you are refering to using the lock/unlock button on the driver's
master switch or passenger switch, then the switch contacts are dirty.
You can carefully take them apart and clean off the carbon dust on the
metal rockers inside each switch. I wouldn't suggest this operation
unless you are confident in your DIY abilities. They are not made to
be disassembled -- atleast intuitively and conveniently so...

If you are refering to operating the locks with the key in the driver's
door lock, I think that that was only an option for the Accord wagons
of the 1990-1993 body style. I could be wrong about that, though. If
you do have key cylinder actuated locks, then there is a switch built
into the lock actuator assembly on the latch of the driver's door that
tells the door lock module that you are turning the key and which
direction. If you do have a wagon and your problem is occuring during
key cylinder use, try the tailgate key cylinder and see if that works.
Then you will know you have a bad driver's door actuator or wiring.

Toyota MDT in MO

 

> If you are refering to using the lock/unlock button on the driver's
> master switch or passenger switch, then the switch contacts are dirty.
> You can carefully take them apart and clean off the carbon dust on the
> metal rockers inside each switch. I wouldn't suggest this operation
> unless you are confident in your DIY abilities. They are not made to
> be disassembled -- atleast intuitively and conveniently so...

Ok, I'll try to clean those. I wonder if some contact cleaner would
work? I have tons of that stuff.

> If you are refering to operating the locks with the key in the driver's
> door lock, I think that that was only an option for the Accord wagons
> of the 1990-1993 body style.

We can lock the doors using the key, that is fine. One of the locks -
rear passenger side - wasn't always working but it's fine now.

If one of the door locks doesn't move when the doors open, is it a pain
to replace the actuator? I'm not worried about this, I check that door
and make sure it's locked if I've opened it.