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What's up guys, I finally got a garage with enough space to tear down that extra L15 I bought at the junk yard last year. I'm gonna send the block to Golden Eagle and have them punch it out with some 13:1 compression pistons, bored .030 over. Hello 1.6L Honda Fit!!! Pics below... Here is the block with the oil pan off, upside down. The block, the timing chain cover, and the rear main seal cover all line up and the oil pan covers all three pieces. Honda uses a grey RTV... Here's the front cover. Still upside down. I had to use a pretty big breaker bar to get the crank bolt off. I wonder what the torque on that baby is? Also wonder if it is reusable? Here is the backside of the engine and my cheap as chips Harbor Freight engine stand. I had to put a couple 45 lb plates on one leg when I took off the crank bolt... Timing cover's off. Hopefully somebody will publish the Honda OEM repair guide or I'm gonna have a hell of a lot of questions on how to put the timing chain back on... I asked Golden Eagle to do a balancer shaft removal kit like on the 4G63. That won't be needed... The back side of the front cover. I imagine if I order a Honda L15B1 rebuild kit from Honda, they will give me new front and rear cover seals, right? Front side of the head and the block. intake cam is the one with the big wheel (not talking down to anybody just in case you're not a wrencher...). Water pump has been removed from the big hole mid-block on the left side with the two studs. I had to pull the studs too to deliver a clean block to GE. The intake cam has twice as many lobes on it. I think that is to enable ? 1 ? of the intake valves per cylinder to go into VTEC mode? Both exhaust valves on each cylinder Here is the back side of the block and head. Just one exhaust "port" because the collectors off the four cylinders are inside the head. Allows them to not have to "make" an exhaust manifold, other than the coffee can before the cat... are pushed off one cam lobe... Should be cheaper when I have my cams ground with the Bisimoto Stage 3 grind from Web Cam. I think they quoted me 8 bills for both bump sticks... Some of these are going to get repetitive but you never know when you need to see something from a certain angle. Those big studs held on some of the EGR crap I think... Behind the stand is the flex plate. This baby was an automatic. I should probably remember to tell Web Cam in case MT cams are different... Coming back around to the front Here you can see rocker arms. They have little actuators on them that allow them to get intertwined with probably the VTEC actuator? I am going to have to do some research on how to properly disassemble and reassemble them. The valves weren't coked up very much. The engine supposedly had 15,000 miles on it. The intake manifold was cracked so they gave me a spare. I am going to put the cracked one in my vise, dissect it and see where we could get the best airflow... Oil pan. Nothing to see here, move on. Straight garbage. I started taking this apart at like 10PM after a few barley pops, so organization is not exactly on fleek... Water pump and ??? pulley from the front cover? Timing chain is off... I hope this is easier to set than the Mitsubishi timing belt with balancer shaft and 15/64" drill bit used on the tensioner. What a mess... That gigantic allen bolt on the right might be a oil connection for the turbo on the 1.5LT. I took off two, the other one was much smaller and had a filter... Myxalpyx said he didn't get any noticeable change from adding cams, but I think it might be "all in the tune..." I am wondering who will tune this for me. I see Javitune is in South Florida, but I'd have to trailer her down there. Good thing I bought a car hauler ;-) !!! More cowbell! Exhaust cam. I started loosening the valve adjusters, but then noticed without the timing chain, the cams just lift out, duh... A couple valve springs went all over the floor when I flipped the engine back upside down. Now would have been a good time to take the springs off by hand... Weird, I didn't see any retainers go flying. I haven't disassembled the head yet. Will do pics of that in another post... Intake bump stick lifted up. I wonder if I should deck the head 30 thousandths to increase compression further. I am going to do two tunes, one for 93 octane, the other for ethanol aka E85. I want to race on the corn fuel... There's quite a few little caps for the cam journals. They looked pretty clean (obvi). More of the same Of everything I took apart, the spark plugs are still in there... So, the retainers for the springs appear to be there, how did a couple springs just... fall out???, and what did I forget??? I started with the valve cover still on LOL. Bump sticks out, valves and rockers still in there... OK, so once the timing chain is on there, it provides enough tension to keep both cams in place, which keep the right amount of pressure on the rocker arms, to push the valves down, which are pushing to remain closed based on the spring being under the valve retainers, which are clamped around the valves... Internal combustion engine 101. Head gasket still on. ¡ya se ven los pistones! Closeup of one piston. Interesting little dots in the head gasket where more flow could be happening on the water around the jackets. Anybody know what that's about? GE is going to sleeve all four of the cylinders, and I am going to pay extra for all the align honing, balancing, blue printing, whatever they can do. They're installing the pistons there. Do Hondas use Clevite 77 bearings? No turning back meow... Yes that is a bench made from some spare iron and a 70's front bench seat from God knows what car... Bottom side of the head. No wonder CarbonTek recommends increasing the size of the valves. I'm going 1mm on the intake, 2mm on the exhaust. You can see the spark plug right in the middle of the combustion chamber. I was wondering, what is that other hole in the combustion chamber, then I remembered, I didn't get any fuel injectors or fuel rail when I bought the engine, those are "sold separately..." All that black area is going to get hogged out. The membrane there between pistons 2 and 3, and between each valve will be thinned and polished. On pistons 1 and 4, CarbonTek reports there is hidden water channels to avoid when porting. Hopefully my cylinder head porter will know what to do... Usually on a intake runner you leave it a bit rough to prevent "atomization" because you're getting 14.7 parts air, and 1 part fuel for stoichiometric burn, but when you have direct injection, all you have is air coming in the runner. So, my idea is to ask the cylinder head guy to smooth it out like as if it was extrude honed, or part of the intake manifold. Get the velocity up to maximum coming into the combustion chamber. Of course the "money shot" is inside the intake valve bowl area... If you've followed along this far, then yeah, I had to break for father's day steaks... One tiny piston on a stick. I am getting lightweight reinforced Brian Crower connecting rods with ARP2000 fasteners. By the way, the end caps are broken off the rods on the Honda factory pieces, pretty snazzy for an econobox... And then I'm doing Traum pistons - GE Spec 75mm bore ah, only 12.5:1... Still the ethanol should take advantage of the increase compression. Wonder if I could run meth in the winshield washer motor for quarter mile burns... LOLFIT, I'm coming for your record! Any honda tech gurus wanna assure me that the Honda Civic Si L15B7 oil pump (complete with turbonium) would fit right on here and significantly increase oil pressure for high G turns??? C'mon where y'all at??? What's up oil pump? Late appearance in the order of operations. I removed this to get the crank out, then noticed the shipping instructions are to send with crank and main caps still on. I just popped off the connecting rod caps, knocked the rod and piston out the top of the engine with the wooden end of a ball peen hammer, and got them out that way. Left the caps and crank in place... Front of block, oil pump removed. Gonna get ARP main studs, and head studs. This thing gonna be on lock! So, what does that wheel back there do? I know there is a "reluctor? wheel" on a LS motor's cam or crankshaft to deliver timing signals to the cam or crank angle sensor. That is all I can guess that this thing does, and yes, I did remove some high price appearing sensors... pic of the front main end cap... Yes I am fat, yes I am mexican, yes I made these chile rellenos There is a panel on the back side of the block with a vacuum hose sticking out of it. I removed that and therein is a rat's maze of "aluminium" for any Limeys who may be reading. 265 Chevy complete engine and 429 Ford police interceptor block sneaking in these pics... Pick of the rear of the block with the automatic flex plate finally removed. Trying to decide on flywheel and clutch choice. L15B7 OEM Honda? Should hold my 200+ hp I hope to get out of this build...
Stay frosty, my friends, comments are OPEN!
Cheers,
d'Art
This is awesome! Thanks for posting these pics of the tear down.
I really wish they went a little beefier on the stock con rods. Can I ask specifically which BC rods you’re going to get? (I doubt I’ll ever make enough power to need to upgrade rods but just out of curiosity).
Looking forward to more updates, and hope you get your 1.6*L back soon!
I can't wait to see the rebuild update and some videos of the new changes in action.
it's a long row to hoe... i am starting to have second thoughts because I want to race still and I just bought a clutch masters clutch and lightened flywheel. I am thinking about installing a limited slip differential and getting in a few race courses over here before the winter. Watkins Glen has a day later this month and Virginia international raceway has an open track event Saturday... there is also a really cool course in west Virginia just southwest of DC... decisions...
I am shooting for 200+ horsepower. I am starting to think I might get that to the wheels... who knows what will happen. Nobody has done a bottom end that I know of. I need to find some 1.6L emblems!
Block is at golden eagle should be back here in six weeks. I am packaging up the head to send to PPR Motorsport in Turkey. 1mm oversize intake. 2mm oversize exhaust. CNC port, titanium coating on valves, valve spring upgrade, retainer upgrade. Decking per their recommendation for E85 tune. The cams go to Web Cam in riverside for the bisimoto stage 3 grind next week. I really need a shop manual, lots of honda bond and torque values I don't know. And the valve train assembly is daunting to say the least...
could not figure out how to remove the spark plug tubes... any ideas? Cheers, Z062FIT
I will get 170 to the wheels for sure. And that plus the lsd and stage 4 clutch, it's going to be fun. I'm going to need a brake upgrade finally!
297mm rotor from a mini copper
2014 accord ex calipers and braket its a direct bolt on
for the rear if you don’t have disk brakes you can can heft a kit
Install Rear kit This is me This in how to assemble the kit
