Machining of inner wheel hub for more off set?
Machining of inner wheel hub for more off set?
Someone asked me about having the inner wheel hub on alloys machined for more offset.... I can see that as a way to cut down on torque steer, reduce wheel weight, and keep the outer part of the wheel and tire inside the wheel well and eliminate having to roll fenders .... Does anyone know of a machine shop that is presently doing this or if not one that you have confidence in to do a job like this... It appears to me that having the inner wheel as close to the steering knuckle as possible without the inner tire rubbing or the wheel hitting the brake caliper would improve steering , braking and lessen the effects of torque steer as well as keeping the sides of the car much cleaner when driven on wet and muddy or dusty roads... I know that Ford did something along the same lines on the little rally cars they have been racing as a means of making less of a problem of torque steer...All of the time there are very desirable extremely low offset wheels for sale at cheaper prices than they would have if with higher offset I'd like to see some post of who in Texas is doing this or would if you know of any.
I would love it if my Enkeis had a slightly higher offset, say +45 or +46 instead of the current +43. Even though the front will still stick out slightly, it should cut down on rubbing with fresh 205/50/16 tires (once they're worn, they don't rub as much). A mm or two should okay, no?
what if you split the difference and machined a little off the wheel and a little off the rotor/drum?
I was the one who asked if anyone had done this. There are a butt ton more wheels that come in +40, there are +45 out there, but most of the wheels I want don't come in +45. So if there's enough room to not rub the strut after machining 5mm off, seems like a good way to not rub/modify fender liners etc and still have the wheels I want. I talked to a machinist friend, he said the main problem he would see is holding it. If you put the wheel flat in a mill, it will be hard to hold and maybe not perfectly flat, so the face may not end up true. To put it in a lathe, it would have to be a BIG lathe, and you would need a large chuck to hold it, then you'd have to check runout to make sure its chucked perfectly straight, so the face would be true. His lathe isn't big enough, but I think I might try to see if we can figure out how to hold it flat in his mill and try it... What the hell, it's only money... Only thing I have no clue about, would this possibly cause the wheel to fail, any engineers want to run FEA on a wheel with 5mm wacked off?
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