Discuss all Forced induction modifications for the Fit
Forum Sponsor: KraftWerks
Welcome to Fit Freak!
Welcome to Fit Freak,
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
Got my ecu back within 2 days of sending out. Impressions:
Install
Install was very easy and straight foward, the cowl piece only required the cover to be popped off. Intercooler installation was very easy, although the factory battery is extremely close to the intercooler, which the instructions advise to switch to the braille racing battery (good idea if you bought your car in 06 and will soon be needing a battery anyways). If you bought the original supercharger kit when it originally came out I would recommend buying some more rotrex fluid, rather than pouring it out the reservoir and refilling it with the old fluid, when you relocate the reservoir.
Drive
The pull on the car is great now. The best way to explain it is that it is exactly like the original kit with the 10lb pulley up to 4k rpm and continues pulling like that all the way to 7k rpm now. You will definitely need a LSD at this point since my car spins all of 1st gear now with a rolling acceleration. The rest of the gears feel great, with 5th gear acceleration on the freeway being the highlight for me. Only downside to me is the stutter, I'm getting when accelerating from low RPMS. It almost feels like a slight hesitation, but this only occurs when I'm accelerating from 2k rpm.
Rating 1/2 of 5 x
It's a must have for all owners of the kit, for the extra cash you're looking at a good increase in power. The power is much more linear and you regain the use of your entire rpm range, which is lost with the update. At first you will think that your gains are minimal until you clear the 4k mark. Low rpm stutter occurs only rarely and immediately gos away. Kit cleans up the install by removing the old fuel management components, with the intercooler and cowl adding a bit of aggressivness while retaining the stock look on the outside. Well thought out kit, with definite polish. I highly recommend getting a braille battery to protect your intercooler from rubbing damage.
Thanks,
Tom
Enjoy Tom!!
The hesitation you describe at 2000RPM is the VTEC switching from one to two intake valves. With the increased airflow to the engine, it is more pronounced than the stock hesitation and more noticeable when cold. You shouldn't notice it once up to temp.
-OJR
__________________ Oscar Jackson Jr. KraftWerks Supercharger Systems Forced Induction Forum Sponsor
not all boost is created equal.
Last edited by OJRKraftWerks; 10-22-2009 at 01:45 PM.
That is really good info OJR! I have been wondering why I get a hiccup at the VTEC crossover since I got my turbo kit. It does only happen cold, just like you say, and I haven't been able to tune it out effectively. My WB spikes lean when the hiccup occurs, so it appears it's just a flat spot on the stock maps that is more pronounced when forcing more air into the motor.
__________________
'07 MR Fit Sport MT
T1R Turbo kit, 6psi
AEM F/IC tuned by yours truly!
155hp, 157.1 Ft-Lb
,___,
[O.o]
/)__)
-"--"- ORLY??
Need tuning or troubleshooting assistance?
PM ME!
I havent been on in a while been working like a slave to keep from getting laid off. Why exactly isnt there a high boost kit for the AT? Isnt there turbo AT with more hp and they are doing ok? I am just asking because I did a search and didnt see it. I would rather save the money and get high boost the low boost but boost is boost I quess.
Thank you
Joe
__________________
If you need shipping than Logistics For The Little Guy is for you! I make the impossible made possible.
Save money get it when you want it Logistics4LG@gmail.com
Had the intercooler kit installed today, honestly couldn't feel any difference as temperatures in NY are in the middle 50's and raining, I'm sure it'll pay off when summer comes back around.
Question(s):
Does the intercooler increase "power"? Is it really/mostly a hot weather benefit? And, any fitment issues if you do an AT transmission cooler, an oil cooler, and the KW IC? I am interested in maximum cooling, as you can see.
My AT kit has been great (had it for about a year now), but recently I've had the hot light come on (flashing). I pull over and cool down and then its fine for several days and/or it just does it randomly, and always when sitting at a long light in traffic, or idling for an extended period (but doesn't always do it in those conditions which is weird). Today it was actually pretty cool (high 70's and very low humidity) and it happened. The car runs superbly, and after I pulled over and cooled down, it didnb't do it again the rest of the day.
I only put all that out there to see if someone has some insight, but regardless, because of the brutally hot and HUMID summers we have here, the IC is a great investment. But beyond that I wondered about the tranny and oil coolers. Not being sure myself how they/where they attach, I wanted to see if all 3 would fit (and if you guys think it's overkill). Budget is not too much of an issue. My wife uses the car daily w/ kids too so trying to keep it cool, no pun.
Sorry about that-- I mean the warning light. The red "H" light.
Never experienced that.
I've run my car for a long time with a B&M transmission fluid cooler, even before I had the KWSC installed, and never had a heat issue...even during the hot summer months.
If it's high 70's and your warning light comes on, maybe there's something wrong with your cooling?
Not sure how much it'll help your situation, but I recommend anyone with the KWSC to rake the hood or get it vented in some form or another. After I raked it just a crack, my temperatures are 20+ degrees cooler, and they go down pretty fast too - before I raked it, my IAT would go up but for the most part stay up after it got there. Now I can watch the temps go down even while sitting at a red light. Water temp is generally lower as well compared to before.
Jeff, I've had my car running Hot sometimes and thats because my fans didn't kick on during traffic. I had this issue if I was driving under 40mph. Not because I was running the car hard or anything, but just because my fans did not kick on. I found the the problem was the factory grounding point was loose. Fan's make a big difference in cooling your radiator to keep temperatures optimal. I can't see a hurt in too much cooling. Adding an Oil cooler and a tranny cooler would help in your AutoX runs.
Jeff, I've had my car running Hot sometimes and thats because my fans didn't kick on during traffic. I had this issue if I was driving under 40mph. Not because I was running the car hard or anything, but just because my fans did not kick on. I found the the problem was the factory grounding point was loose. Fan's make a big difference in cooling your radiator to keep temperatures optimal. I can't see a hurt in too much cooling. Adding an Oil cooler and a tranny cooler would help in your AutoX runs.
.how about if you worked really close to where u lived and u never really drive far and u really drive to the point of where your car never warmed up and u dont live in socal or fla or u dont like my run on sentence?
Thanks guys. I am pretty sure it's the problem Blue Cell is describing: fans not kicking on.
Do you recall where that ground is or where I might look for a connection issue?
Yup. Sure enough, the fans are not kicking on. Once again a problem that is in NO WAY related to the KWSC! The kit itself has really been a flawless performer.
The MINI Cooper S engine was actually designed by the same team responsible for the Neon SRT-4. It would seem this team is as competent as they are modest. Though only rated at 163 hp at the crank, our MINI cranks out 166 hp at the wheels.
Thanks guys. I am pretty sure it's the problem Blue Cell is describing: fans not kicking on.
Do you recall where that ground is or where I might look for a connection issue?
Check the fuse first to see if its blown.
For the Grounding point, take off your front bumper, on the drivers side there should be a bunch of black wires with a 10mm bolt to the frame. That's the main grounding point for the fans and other options. Loosen it, clean it up a little and retighten it.
If that's not the problem, then you'll need your wires rechecked.
Linear Mode
