KraftWerks Fit High Boost and Intercooler Systems
Thread Starter
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Former Vendor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 559
From: Norco, CA
Got my ecu back within 2 days of sending out. Impressions:
Install
Install was very easy and straight foward, the cowl piece only required the cover to be popped off. Intercooler installation was very easy, although the factory battery is extremely close to the intercooler, which the instructions advise to switch to the braille racing battery (good idea if you bought your car in 06 and will soon be needing a battery anyways). If you bought the original supercharger kit when it originally came out I would recommend buying some more rotrex fluid, rather than pouring it out the reservoir and refilling it with the old fluid, when you relocate the reservoir.
Drive
The pull on the car is great now. The best way to explain it is that it is exactly like the original kit with the 10lb pulley up to 4k rpm and continues pulling like that all the way to 7k rpm now. You will definitely need a LSD at this point since my car spins all of 1st gear now with a rolling acceleration. The rest of the gears feel great, with 5th gear acceleration on the freeway being the highlight for me. Only downside to me is the stutter, I'm getting when accelerating from low RPMS. It almost feels like a slight hesitation, but this only occurs when I'm accelerating from 2k rpm.
Rating
1/2 of 5 x
It's a must have for all owners of the kit, for the extra cash you're looking at a good increase in power. The power is much more linear and you regain the use of your entire rpm range, which is lost with the update. At first you will think that your gains are minimal until you clear the 4k mark. Low rpm stutter occurs only rarely and immediately gos away. Kit cleans up the install by removing the old fuel management components, with the intercooler and cowl adding a bit of aggressivness while retaining the stock look on the outside. Well thought out kit, with definite polish. I highly recommend getting a braille battery to protect your intercooler from rubbing damage.
Thanks,
Tom
Install
Install was very easy and straight foward, the cowl piece only required the cover to be popped off. Intercooler installation was very easy, although the factory battery is extremely close to the intercooler, which the instructions advise to switch to the braille racing battery (good idea if you bought your car in 06 and will soon be needing a battery anyways). If you bought the original supercharger kit when it originally came out I would recommend buying some more rotrex fluid, rather than pouring it out the reservoir and refilling it with the old fluid, when you relocate the reservoir.
Drive
The pull on the car is great now. The best way to explain it is that it is exactly like the original kit with the 10lb pulley up to 4k rpm and continues pulling like that all the way to 7k rpm now. You will definitely need a LSD at this point since my car spins all of 1st gear now with a rolling acceleration. The rest of the gears feel great, with 5th gear acceleration on the freeway being the highlight for me. Only downside to me is the stutter, I'm getting when accelerating from low RPMS. It almost feels like a slight hesitation, but this only occurs when I'm accelerating from 2k rpm.
Rating
1/2 of 5 x It's a must have for all owners of the kit, for the extra cash you're looking at a good increase in power. The power is much more linear and you regain the use of your entire rpm range, which is lost with the update. At first you will think that your gains are minimal until you clear the 4k mark. Low rpm stutter occurs only rarely and immediately gos away. Kit cleans up the install by removing the old fuel management components, with the intercooler and cowl adding a bit of aggressivness while retaining the stock look on the outside. Well thought out kit, with definite polish. I highly recommend getting a braille battery to protect your intercooler from rubbing damage.
Thanks,
Tom
The hesitation you describe at 2000RPM is the VTEC switching from one to two intake valves. With the increased airflow to the engine, it is more pronounced than the stock hesitation and more noticeable when cold. You shouldn't notice it once up to temp.
-OJR
Last edited by OJRKraftWerks; Oct 22, 2009 at 12:45 PM.
Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 548
From: Flint, MI
That is really good info OJR! I have been wondering why I get a hiccup at the VTEC crossover since I got my turbo kit. It does only happen cold, just like you say, and I haven't been able to tune it out effectively. My WB spikes lean when the hiccup occurs, so it appears it's just a flat spot on the stock maps that is more pronounced when forcing more air into the motor.
Thread Starter
|
Former Vendor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 559
From: Norco, CA
-OJR
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 118
From: Tampa Florida
I havent been on in a while been working like a slave to keep from getting laid off. Why exactly isnt there a high boost kit for the AT? Isnt there turbo AT with more hp and they are doing ok? I am just asking because I did a search and didnt see it. I would rather save the money and get high boost the low boost but boost is boost I quess.
Thank you
Joe
Thank you
Joe
Had the intercooler kit installed today, honestly couldn't feel any difference as temperatures in NY are in the middle 50's and raining, I'm sure it'll pay off when summer comes back around.
Need to get my car to a dyno ASAP!
Need to get my car to a dyno ASAP!
Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 281
From: Houston
Question(s):
Does the intercooler increase "power"? Is it really/mostly a hot weather benefit? And, any fitment issues if you do an AT transmission cooler, an oil cooler, and the KW IC? I am interested in maximum cooling, as you can see.
My AT kit has been great (had it for about a year now), but recently I've had the hot light come on (flashing). I pull over and cool down and then its fine for several days and/or it just does it randomly, and always when sitting at a long light in traffic, or idling for an extended period (but doesn't always do it in those conditions which is weird). Today it was actually pretty cool (high 70's and very low humidity) and it happened. The car runs superbly, and after I pulled over and cooled down, it didnb't do it again the rest of the day.
I only put all that out there to see if someone has some insight, but regardless, because of the brutally hot and HUMID summers we have here, the IC is a great investment. But beyond that I wondered about the tranny and oil coolers. Not being sure myself how they/where they attach, I wanted to see if all 3 would fit (and if you guys think it's overkill). Budget is not too much of an issue. My wife uses the car daily w/ kids too so trying to keep it cool, no pun.
Sorry for long post, just trying to be thorough.
Does the intercooler increase "power"? Is it really/mostly a hot weather benefit? And, any fitment issues if you do an AT transmission cooler, an oil cooler, and the KW IC? I am interested in maximum cooling, as you can see.
My AT kit has been great (had it for about a year now), but recently I've had the hot light come on (flashing). I pull over and cool down and then its fine for several days and/or it just does it randomly, and always when sitting at a long light in traffic, or idling for an extended period (but doesn't always do it in those conditions which is weird). Today it was actually pretty cool (high 70's and very low humidity) and it happened. The car runs superbly, and after I pulled over and cooled down, it didnb't do it again the rest of the day.
I only put all that out there to see if someone has some insight, but regardless, because of the brutally hot and HUMID summers we have here, the IC is a great investment. But beyond that I wondered about the tranny and oil coolers. Not being sure myself how they/where they attach, I wanted to see if all 3 would fit (and if you guys think it's overkill). Budget is not too much of an issue. My wife uses the car daily w/ kids too so trying to keep it cool, no pun.
Sorry for long post, just trying to be thorough.
Never experienced that.
I've run my car for a long time with a B&M transmission fluid cooler, even before I had the KWSC installed, and never had a heat issue...even during the hot summer months.
I've run my car for a long time with a B&M transmission fluid cooler, even before I had the KWSC installed, and never had a heat issue...even during the hot summer months.
If it's high 70's and your warning light comes on, maybe there's something wrong with your cooling?
Not sure how much it'll help your situation, but I recommend anyone with the KWSC to rake the hood or get it vented in some form or another. After I raked it just a crack, my temperatures are 20+ degrees cooler, and they go down pretty fast too - before I raked it, my IAT would go up but for the most part stay up after it got there. Now I can watch the temps go down even while sitting at a red light. Water temp is generally lower as well compared to before.
Not sure how much it'll help your situation, but I recommend anyone with the KWSC to rake the hood or get it vented in some form or another. After I raked it just a crack, my temperatures are 20+ degrees cooler, and they go down pretty fast too - before I raked it, my IAT would go up but for the most part stay up after it got there. Now I can watch the temps go down even while sitting at a red light. Water temp is generally lower as well compared to before.
Jeff, I've had my car running Hot sometimes and thats because my fans didn't kick on during traffic. I had this issue if I was driving under 40mph. Not because I was running the car hard or anything, but just because my fans did not kick on. I found the the problem was the factory grounding point was loose. Fan's make a big difference in cooling your radiator to keep temperatures optimal. I can't see a hurt in too much cooling. Adding an Oil cooler and a tranny cooler would help in your AutoX runs.
Banned
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 69
From: fitonia
Jeff, I've had my car running Hot sometimes and thats because my fans didn't kick on during traffic. I had this issue if I was driving under 40mph. Not because I was running the car hard or anything, but just because my fans did not kick on. I found the the problem was the factory grounding point was loose. Fan's make a big difference in cooling your radiator to keep temperatures optimal. I can't see a hurt in too much cooling. Adding an Oil cooler and a tranny cooler would help in your AutoX runs.
For the Grounding point, take off your front bumper, on the drivers side there should be a bunch of black wires with a 10mm bolt to the frame. That's the main grounding point for the fans and other options. Loosen it, clean it up a little and retighten it.
If that's not the problem, then you'll need your wires rechecked.