View Poll Results: 15 or 16 inch wheels

15 (OE)

66.67%

16 (cause cool? bigger is better?)

33.33%

Voters: 3. You may not vote on this poll

15 vs 16 - wheel sizes - pros and cons

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Mar 10, 2020 | 11:30 AM

#21

RaginTxn

Thread Starter

Member

Joined: Jun 2019

Posts: 24

From: Washington

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hootie

Its a bit of a mental game with it comes to looking up parts for the GD. I make it a habit look for 2007 model years only since the GD was still in production globally at that time. For 2008, the GE was in production in most markets and the GD was about to be phased out the following model year in others.

Looking at the model year range and the fact that this is listed as compatible with the "GE6" is leading me to believe that the coilovers are for the second gen Fit... Which have longer strut and shock bodies than the GD if I remember correctly. You might be able to offset the longer strut length by compensating with the adjustment sleeve but I can't say for sure (being speculative here). If you can find something that specifically says GD1/GD3 then you should be fine... Might have to make the two mounting bolts were the strut secures to the knuckle larger but length wise you'll be fine.

Hey Hootie - thanks for the clarification and guidance on the year overlap (always a joy when we get to deal with that little caviot). fortunately I have an '07 so I always just filter for that. Hence the question and surprise when I filtered for that, and got the "JAP GE6", but I'm sure that's just because it shows a manu date of "2007.10". Also good to note on the differences on the sizing of the parts between the GC and GE.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GolNat

I thought the only difference between the GE and GD suspension was the spring rates.

[...]

K-tuned lists them for both gens. Very stiff spring rate.

New K1-Street Coilovers for Honda Fit 07-08 and 09-14

Have you tried these or know anyone that has? I emailed K-tuned yesterday to get their drop range on the COs, but only got a vague answer "Our K1-Street Coilovers typically have a drop to eliminate wheel gap." I'm just interested in the over all initial drop in the highest setting. I have a set of 195/60 blizzaks I run in the winter, and just want to make sure there is enough clearance to still run those, and then I can lower for when I have my summer set of tires on the car.

May 9, 2020 | 04:50 PM

#22

RaginTxn

Thread Starter

Member

Joined: Jun 2019

Posts: 24

From: Washington

Not technically wheels sizes, but deals with the same area 😅

Alright, so I have some new rotors and pads - my first time doing this myself. Is there anything I need to do with the brakes after installing the new rotors and pads? Is there a break in procedure? Do I need to get the brake lines flushed or checked for pressure?

Sorry, this sounds so newb (and at least for brakes and me it is), but just don't want to screw up a good set of rotors doing something silly.

Thanks!

May 9, 2020 | 08:16 PM

#23

Hootie

Member

iTrader: (3)

Joined: Mar 2008

Posts: 5,093

From: South of Heaven

Quote:

Originally Posted by RaginTxn

Brake manufactures have their own specific criteria for bedding in/break in of pads. I'd check with the manufacture of the pads that you purchase to see what their specific criteria is.

Replacing brake fluid during that time wouldn't hurt as well. For one, the fluid is supposed to be replaced every 3 years with a minimum of DOT 3 rated brake fluid (as per Honda, listed in the maintenance minder section of owner's manual). Doing this generally is a two for one when done correctly, replaces brake fluid as well as bleeds the brake system of air.

Also in my honest opinion, pressure testing wouldn't really be necessary unless you're seeing concerns like a spongy (soft) pedal, increased pedal effort to brake, the brake doesn't stiffen while the vehicle is off (building line pressure), etc. If you are having any doubts, feel uncomfortable with or still don't quite seem to grasp how brake bleeding and/or fluid replacements work (which is ok if you don't) then I'd recommend allowing someone trained or comfortable with brake systems to either do that part of the service or watch over/guide you through if you want to learn and perform this yourself. Doing basic maintenance on brakes is rather simple... BUT if something goes wrong, things can go south quickly.

Just make a honest and fair judgement based upon your mechanical skill and comfort level. I'm sure even some locals wouldn't mind giving at least pointers or a hand once things taper down with COVID.