Hi all, I just replaced the CVT fluid in my 2006 JDM GD1 (SWRA transmission code), as it's been 2 years since the last change, even though it hasn't been driven very far. I feel happy doing this as the fluid was surprisingly brown, and there was quite a bit of very fine dark grey metal dust on the drain plug magnet. I ended up using all 3.5 L of the new CVTF bottle, and it's a couple of mm below the upper HOT mark checking 60-90 seconds after engine off, so perhaps it was slightly underfilled before (normally only 3.2 L should be needed). Genuine Honda CVTF, manufactured by ENEOS (the previous batch was made for Honda by Idemitsu). The car had a small trace of shuddering when taking off uphill, so I did a stall test before the change to burnish the start clutch, and injected a syringe of XADO Revitalizant into the fresh fluid after I had warmed it up. So far, no trace of shuddering now. The stall speeds were within spec but generally on the low side.

I have seen recommendations to replace the transmission filter(s) periodically on these, but as far as I can tell they can only be accessed by opening the transmission. There doesn't appear to be a transmission oil pan that can be removed, and there's no external fluid filter like on later models. Has anyone done this? I'm hoping that regular CVTF changes will be enough to keep it going, and if the transmission ever develops a serious fault I can look at opening it up.

 

How did the Revitalizant treat you, a few months on? I just picked up a GD1 fit with the same shutter so I'm thinking I'll be using that with a fluid change.

 

The Revitalizant really does seem to be good stuff, and my Fit's CVT has been solid throughout hilly urban and inter-city driving. For good measure, you could also do a start clutch calibration and perhaps a stall test as well.

As I understand it, the juddering when moving off (esp. uphill) is mainly due to moisture contamination and degradation of the clutch surfaces, and Honda originally specified an unsuitable fluid (they later introduced the special CVTF). There was also a newer start clutch design with multiple smaller springs instead of one big one, so it might be partially a mechanical issue as well. Doing a stall test to burnish the clutch plates is suggested by some Honda service bulletins such as this one.

Good luck and let us know how you go!

 

(Probably goes without saying, but do the start clutch burnish/stall test before changing the fluid, and the Revitalizant and calibration after.)