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Hello I've been trying to figure this out all week. I have a 2008 Honda Fit sport and Monday morning it was really cold and the car wouldn't go into gear. So I grabbed fluid on my way home and topped off the reservoir and clutch work went through the gears. Decided I wanted to flush the fluid cause it was greenish brown, Got a new bleeder screw because the old one stripped getting it out. So I know how I normally bleed breaks applied that to the clutch and pedal won't come back from the floor just stay stuck down you have to manually push and pull pedal up and down. Kept bleeding even though clutch pedal wouldn't return or get any pressure to it till the fluid started coming out clear. Tried the conventional way for about 20 minutes with no positive response. Called my mechanic buddy and he said that Some hondas are weird and have to be like reverse bled, were you open the bleeder, push the pedal, close the bleeder and slowly pull the pedal back up. Tried that but it was suckimg air back when I open the bleeder. He suggested I run a tube from the bleeder into a jar of brake fluid to prevent air from going back as I do it that way. Gonna try again tomorrow...Any help and suggestions are appreciated as im at a loss and would need to tow the car now as it sits. Beyond frustrated with this.
This is from the GE8 service manual, but should be very similar for your 2008. It's exactly the procedure I used to use on my Yaris.
I have no idea why your clutch pedal isn't returning. Does it stay up once your pull it back into position? Did you lose all the fluid when you removed/broke the bleeder screw?
This is from the GE8 service manual, but should be very similar for your 2008. It's exactly the procedure I used to use on my Yaris.
I have no idea why your clutch pedal isn't returning. Does it stay up once your pull it back into position? Did you lose all the fluid when you removed/broke the bleeder screw?
Pedal stays up and very little fluid came out when swapping screws
I just changed my clutch, and the same thing happened to me. I spent several hours trying to bleed the clutch, and I figured out my Master Cylinder and Clutch Slave Cylinder were both shot. When you replace them, make sure you also get a new Honda 46942-S5A-003 and Honda 46941-S5A-A01, as most kits do not come with them and I was barely able to get mine off after 16 years of service. If you have a chance, stop by Harbor Freight and get the PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump Kit, as it'll make it much easier to bleed the system by yourself. With Rockauto and the Harbor freight tools replacing the hydraulics was less than $100.
I just changed my clutch, and the same thing happened to me. I spent several hours trying to bleed the clutch, and I figured out my Master Cylinder and Clutch Slave Cylinder were both shot. When you replace them, make sure you also get a new Honda 46942-S5A-003 and Honda 46941-S5A-A01, as most kits do not come with them and I was barely able to get mine off after 16 years of service. If you have a chance, stop by Harbor Freight and get the PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump Kit, as it'll make it much easier to bleed the system by yourself. With Rockauto and the Harbor freight tools replacing the hydraulics was less than $100.
Got a $20 vacuum bleeder off Amazon and I have a pedal again. Can put it in gear and drive, no lurching while in gear with the clutch in. It does grab alot higher now, used to grab almost off the floor. Clutch feels more solid pushing than before too.