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Contaminated brake fluid

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Old Nov 6, 2025 | 12:53 PM
  #1  
Thatonejoe's Avatar
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Contaminated brake fluid

I have a fit I’m trying to fix squishy brakes on a 2008 fit. I replaced the front calipers and all brake pads and shoes, and machined the rotors. I checked the fluid and it was this dark green so I did a fluid flush. But then a couple weeks later the fluid was green again so I flushed it again. 3-4 flushes later it keeps getting contaminated and turning green. Any ideas on how this can happen? My thought would be a corroded brake line somewhere? But I don’t seem to be loosing fluid

 
Old Nov 6, 2025 | 01:47 PM
  #2  
Drew21's Avatar
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I was going to suggest the front calipers (I have seen horrible pitting and internal corrosion behind the piston when the fluid isn't changed), but you removed that possibility by changing them.

I'm doubtful that you could have brake lines so badly corroded that they continue to discolor the fluid but don't leak.

Do the brakes work correctly (not squishy) now? Does the fluid level stay consistent in the reservoir after you fill? I have also seen some very dirty brake fluid reservoirs. How does yours look?
 
Old Nov 13, 2025 | 02:35 AM
  #3  
2015LXFIT's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2023
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From: PA, USA
The proper answer is you're not flushing properly. A real flush involves removing all calipers, draining. Sucking fluid from reservoir and flushing with new fluid. Then cleaning internals on all brake components (you dont have to do it to the master due to time constraints). Calipers and slave cyls shouldnt be more than a couple of hours.

We've had some systems so bad water would get trapped bottomside of calipers and cause a squishy pedal. Also when replacing start from furthest to closest from MC to flush. If you did fronts still start at rears regardless.

Lastly check slide pins. Just had a customer replace with AutoZone calipers themselves (junk) and no more than 6 months in a slide pin seized causing spongy brake pedal. GL
 
Old Dec 18, 2025 | 11:00 PM
  #4  
MTLian's Avatar
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From: Canada
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Are you doing the proper procedure? If you have MT, Are you also bleeding the clutch which shares fluid with the master?

my technique is to use some rubber tubing + a medicine syringe to suck out as much of the master cylinder as I can (don’t get any on the paint or plastic!). Then top off with fresh fluid.

I bleed the clutch first until clear fluid comes out, then the driver’s (left) side. The driver’s side usually takes the longest before clear fluid starts to appear. Then you go around the car clockwise: right front, right rear then left rear. Obviously keep topping off the master cylinder each time.

it takes me a good two bottles of Honda Dot3 to go from coffee colored fluid to clear like apple juice. You might get one of those brake fluid testers to see how much water is actually in your system.
 
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