What did you do to the GD Fit today?
Got a new windshield installed 
Steve was the tech that did the change out. I explained he would be on the FF F today, he's been doing this for 21 years and he did a really fine job. As it happened I had a pic of my 68 Charger and he has a 69 Camaro w/ a 421CID. I asked him what was a Pontiac motor doing in his Camaro but it started as 396 and the orginal dr. train is stored away.

Steve was the tech that did the change out. I explained he would be on the FF F today, he's been doing this for 21 years and he did a really fine job. As it happened I had a pic of my 68 Charger and he has a 69 Camaro w/ a 421CID. I asked him what was a Pontiac motor doing in his Camaro but it started as 396 and the orginal dr. train is stored away.
Last edited by Perrenoud Fit; Jun 10, 2011 at 08:57 PM.
Car finally decided it was going to get good mileage with the newly set valve clearance. It got 36 mpg on the thrasher tank so it's time to go all out.
Tires now at 50 pounds, shift points at 2700 (1st) and 2200 (rest) so we'll see.
Home Depot map light fell off after two years of faithful service! It was only 68F out today too, weird...
Tires now at 50 pounds, shift points at 2700 (1st) and 2200 (rest) so we'll see.
Home Depot map light fell off after two years of faithful service! It was only 68F out today too, weird...
nah.. doesnt fit. you need to change the whole front end of the car. bumpers, fenders, hood, rad support, etc.
That reminds me of something I've always wondered. When indexing spark plugs, is the gap supposed to favor (aim slightly towards) the intake valve slightly with the grounding electrode facing away from both valves?
Usually you want it aimed towards the "squish" area of the chamber, which would be the '6 o'clock' arrow or towards the intake valve. In our case I would lean it towards the primary intake valve, as it not only sees the most lift but it is in use even when VTEC is not active.

But I am currently in the process of trying to determine which is best before going for boost. This can help with knock prevention, fuel economy and torque production.
I would also make a point to avoid using projected tip plugs, like you see in the cylinder on the left. Being that much farther out and away from the cylinder head not only disrupts flow but becomes a more prominent hot spot for pre-ignition to start from.
Obviously the main idea behind doing all this is to encourage better flame kernel/flame front propagation. So really it's all about where the charge is best ignited from. In this case I would think it is either facing the primary intake valve or the big open area at 6 o'clock. But I honestly am not sure at this point.
I intend to test a few different orientations and when I find one I like I will then use additional washers/shims to raise/drop the plugs to even out burn temps across the 4 cylinders.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; Jun 13, 2011 at 01:58 AM.
When it comes to plug indexing there is no universal way to do it. It depends on the cylinder head design. For the L15A1 head on the GD3 Fits nobody has really tested, or at least reported what seems to work best.
Usually you want it aimed towards the "squish" area of the chamber, which would be the '6 o'clock' arrow or towards the intake valve. In our case I would lean it towards the primary intake valve, as it not only sees the most lift but it is in use even when VTEC is not active.

But I am currently in the process of trying to determine which is best before going for boost. This can help with knock prevention, fuel economy and torque production.
I would also make a point to avoid using projected tip plugs, like you see in the cylinder on the left. Being that much farther out and away from the cylinder head not only disrupts flow but becomes a more prominent hot spot for pre-ignition to start from.
Obviously the main idea behind doing all this is to encourage better flame kernel/flame front propagation. So really it's all about where the charge is best ignited from. In this case I would think it is either facing the primary intake valve or the big open area at 6 o'clock. But I honestly am not sure at this point.
I intend to test a few different orientations and when I find one I like I will then use additional washers/shims to raise/drop the plugs to even out burn temps across the 4 cylinders.
Hope that helps.
Usually you want it aimed towards the "squish" area of the chamber, which would be the '6 o'clock' arrow or towards the intake valve. In our case I would lean it towards the primary intake valve, as it not only sees the most lift but it is in use even when VTEC is not active.

But I am currently in the process of trying to determine which is best before going for boost. This can help with knock prevention, fuel economy and torque production.
I would also make a point to avoid using projected tip plugs, like you see in the cylinder on the left. Being that much farther out and away from the cylinder head not only disrupts flow but becomes a more prominent hot spot for pre-ignition to start from.
Obviously the main idea behind doing all this is to encourage better flame kernel/flame front propagation. So really it's all about where the charge is best ignited from. In this case I would think it is either facing the primary intake valve or the big open area at 6 o'clock. But I honestly am not sure at this point.
I intend to test a few different orientations and when I find one I like I will then use additional washers/shims to raise/drop the plugs to even out burn temps across the 4 cylinders.
Hope that helps.

Plus rep for such a detailed answer/explanation.
Hey, DSM, is there a sure-fire way of knowing if the plugs someone is looking at will project into the chamber like those in your picture? For example are the Denso plugs that seem to be favored on this site the type that stick out from the head? TIA
.. and still keeping it daily driven, with a/c, stock clutch, sound deadening, antirust, all interior lining and stock seats... Only mods are with the engine set up and the handling package. The big difference is the exhaust set up. Once you can find a good header-pipe-muffler combo for your motor, then you're on...
Last edited by kodok3ribu; Jun 14, 2011 at 12:29 AM.
With the IK2x series Denso's I believe they are all projected. The I in IK2x standing for Iridium..
With the NGK Iridiums the letters in the name all have a meaning ofcourse. BPR7ES would be projected tip 7-range plugs (7 is stock heat range for us)
BR7ES would be non-projected 7-range. BR6ES would be one step colder non projected tip, which is what I will be switching to once I find an index angle I am happy with.
Also, if you intend to index your plugs obviously you'll need indexing washers, but please make sure to use a magic marker instead of pencil as Graphite is a better conductor than ink, and you want nothing conductive on the surface of the ceramic insulator...
Should say on the box usually, as far as the Denso IK22's Part #5310 (6 range) of which I just installed a set they are projected tip. This was done intentionally in the hopes of making it more obvious where to aim the electrode as I am trying to dial in my indexing.
With the IK2x series Denso's I believe they are all projected. The I in IK2x standing for Iridium..
With the NGK Iridiums the letters in the name all have a meaning ofcourse. BPR7ES would be projected tip 7-range plugs (7 is stock heat range for us)
BR7ES would be non-projected 7-range. BR6ES would be one step colder non projected tip, which is what I will be switching to once I find an index angle I am happy with.
Also, if you intend to index your plugs obviously you'll need indexing washers, but please make sure to use a magic marker instead of pencil as Graphite is a better conductor than ink, and you want nothing conductive on the surface of the ceramic insulator...
With the IK2x series Denso's I believe they are all projected. The I in IK2x standing for Iridium..
With the NGK Iridiums the letters in the name all have a meaning ofcourse. BPR7ES would be projected tip 7-range plugs (7 is stock heat range for us)
BR7ES would be non-projected 7-range. BR6ES would be one step colder non projected tip, which is what I will be switching to once I find an index angle I am happy with.
Also, if you intend to index your plugs obviously you'll need indexing washers, but please make sure to use a magic marker instead of pencil as Graphite is a better conductor than ink, and you want nothing conductive on the surface of the ceramic insulator...







