Your battery voltage affects you injector deadtime. So if you are only seeing 10-11v under cranking your deadtime is 50% higher than under a ~14v output when running.

I have to correct for this on my other cars. For FIC BlueMax 1450cc injectors I had to adjust my InjBattAdjust tables to over 1400usec at 9v and 615usec global. This is a seperate parameter field in most ECUs, like Hot/Cold Fuel enrichment it plays a big part in start up.

Your fuel pump is also affected in this manner, so it is harder to build up to your base fuel pressure, which in many cases is 3bar, because that is what the injectors are flow tested at.

I would save your money on the solar trickle charger and just get a big ass battery frankly. Though if you do go that route keep us updated!

 

I washed my Jazz today, but now it is too dark to take any pictures.
Monday the winter tires is coming on. Some may think it is a bit early, but I live so far north that it is starting to get ice on the roads in the nights. And I will probably take a long business trip during the coming week or next week that gets me on a mountain pass where there is snow already...

 

I've been thinking of a yellow optima battery I've heard great things. With that I was going to try and move it forward a bit so I can make an intake to go under my rouge scoop (with a water bypass valve) With this battery I was thinking of upgrading all the wires as well to a thicker gauge. I just dont know much in this area or where to start.

 

I have heard mixed reviews on recent optimas. I know people have had great results with them in the past, including several friends I've known have used them for years. But from what I understand they (Optima) had some sort of recent organizational change and allegedly quality has declined. This is for their AGM type batteries specifically. I use 1115CCA Braille Endurance batteries in everything except the Fit so far which has been just fine on the factory original battery since 2008

So a larger battery (>650CCA) and some 4ga or larger ground leads would probably be plenty. If you are looking to upgrade the charge wire as well I would run a 2ga line from the alternator to a 150-200A fuze block and then a 2ga line from the block to the battery terminal.

I also install rewound larger capacity (at least 150A) alternators in every vehicle except for my Fit and my unmodified RAV4 so all this would likely be overkill for our needs. But good voltage makes everything happier in EFI. But in moderation.. 13.9v-14.7v is about ideal, closer to 14.3-14.5v is where I like things to sit.

 

I put air in my tires cause they were really low

 

Slapped on some Honda Access visors

 

^^Sweet! Lets do a shoot soon!

 

Chrome trim 3/16" wide 1m for 6.00, 12.00 did all 4 doors and the grill.....I will change these tomorrow w/ better pix

 

 

I came to that conclusion this morning when I saw how huge these solar chargers are (20"x6"). I see Auto Zone has a 500 amp. 51R 89.00 shipped. 100.00 + tax if you buy it from the local A.Z. store???
Thanks Chris ,
Mike

PS 13.6-13.9v while running, so do you think this is the amp & 50 LED's lol bringing the voltage down Chris? or is it the parameters of our ECU? Or a 2.4 year old battery which needs to be replaced which would be upsetting

 

your car is looking good, cant wait to check it out in person

 

 

Hmm.. that is still a relatively healthy voltage output, LEDs are pretty energy efficient so i don't see those creating a lot of draw... If you have a voltage gauge in the cabin or a friend with a good eye and steady hands, try and get a look at your voltage on startup. If it dips into like the 9s during cranking that would tell me your battery is going.

A cheap short term solution which may actually help the battery regain charge is to take a couple heavy (at least 4ga.) cables and ground the engine block, transmission and intake/exhaust manifolds to the frame in several places. Scrape off and sand any paint/rubber at the mounting points for better contact.

Then if you are still not satisfied, take a large (150A or larger) audio fuze block and some thicker cable (at least 2ga.) and run a wire directly from the alternator to the fuze block, and from the fuze block to the positive battery terminal.

If you are already seeing high 13s and this doesn't bump you into the 14s it's definitely battery time. Then with a new battery and upgraded grounds your injector, spark and sensor events will be much crisper in transient response and smoother operation overall.

 

Thanks Chris,
Ya the seat of my pants die-no, really felt a dif. in the battery @ 14v vs. 12.5 @ startup static volts, and under start up it dips to 11v, yes I have a dig. v meter in the cabin reads to 10ths of a v. So I wasn't loopy yesterday when I had a fully charged bat. it realy does make a dif.
T-Y again,
Mike
PS I have tied the engine and frame together w/ 2ga waaaay back when I bought MzFiT so I'll check on that too!
Man it would bite if the bat. is already headed to the recycle bin. then it will be time to relocate and install a "real" battery

 

Thanks Jeremy for the encouaging words! And I'll see ya 1/11 be here B4 ya no-it
Mike

 

I got to epoxy lexan over a stone-destroyed foglight! Boo hiss. That honda plastic was thinnnnnn.

 

Hmm gave her a both and put some paint sealer on her. Shes all nice and smooth. Not to many more mods though i need to get my skunk springs put on. Than some wheels for sure. But i got a new car this weekend to replace my 91 previa its a 06 XB with 36k miles. Well she is my used girl and needs alot of cleaning

 

previa huh? Are you keeping it?

 

^^ Well its payed off i was thinking of selling her but over all she is a great Van. Has 235k miles had to replace a battery,alternator and looks like a fuel pump. I would love to restore her with a VIP kit they look sick when done right

 

Please VIP it!!! I love vans!