Driving at 70 MPH engine died. Worked my way across highway onto shoulder. Was able to restart car immediately and once I got back on highway it lurched and stuttered like it was out of fuel. Pulled back onto shoulder. All power works with no problem. Could restart car and move slowly on shoulder with no problems. Orange indicator on, I think it is either engine check or batter symbol. Could not find in manual.
Known issues: 105,000 miles. out of warranty. Dirty air filter. Low on fuel.
Had it towed to safe location, now parked.
What should I check first?

 

Had any other previous issues? Jerky when driving? This sounds like the same issue a lot of fitfreakers with high mileage are encountering with the jerkiness. If its the check engine light I'd have the code read and report back. Even if the battery was dead a car will continue to run with a dead battery, but you wouldn't have been able to restart if it were dead.

Also how low on fuel? Like driving with the light on and possibly ran out?

 

You say the orange indicator was on. That is the Check Engine Light. (Battery light is red)

Get the car to an AutoZone or other auto parts store and they will plug in a diagnostic computer, to see what caused the check engine light. That will be the easiest way to see what potential problems you may have.

While you are there, pick up an air filter. They run from about $4 to about $15, and take about 30 seconds to install. Absolutely no reason to have a dirty air filter.

 

My thoughts, also orange could have been low fuel indicator. But that would have been on before the car died.

 

Good point!

To the OP, if the light was in the pod with the fuel gauge, then it was just a low fuel light, get some gas.

If if was in the pod with the tachometer, it was the check engine light.

 

Without knowing what code tripped the CEL isn't impossible to tell. Take it to a qualified repair shop you feel confident with and have it checked out. I would fill the tank and be sure the gas cap is secured. Do this on the way to the shop.

You could go to PeP or the Zone if your a confident DIY'er, but if you do go to a repair shop they will check codes anyway, regardless of what info you bring them, however if you do go this route - get a clean air filter. Seems you might be a bit behind on the TLC_

K_C_

 

Thanks for all of the quick replies.The place where it is parked ran the codes for me. P2647, "A" Rocker Arm Actuator System Stuck on Bank1. They cleared the code.
Honda Service Department says to restart the engine, let it idle 10 minutes to "relearn" the Idle codes. It can be caused by going 3000 RPM with a little low oil, in my daughter's case less than 1 quart low.
So now I am waiting for a backup person to follow me to the car and do all of the above, plus an oil change, and put in the air filter I had already bought her.

 

I also added gas. Honda Service said to drive it on the access roads for a little bit. Turn it off and drive again. Sometimes it takes two trips to reactivate the engine code problem.

We own a 2007 Vivid Blue Pearl and a 2008 Tidewater Honda Fit. Never any problems with either. I can't believe that being a little bit low on oil would stall it though.

In a small town you get free advice and help. I will probably let her drive the 2008 again tomorrow since her work is 50 miles away. I will concentrate on small trips until I think it is safe.

 

I can remember a fellow that posted here a long time ago about having bought a used fit never showed a check engine light but had the same problem..... He bought an expensive axle back pipe for his car and had a list of things too buy but kept saying the car wouldn't rev past 3200 RPM.... He thought it was normal..... I wonder what happened to him?.. He was a nice kid..... His car needed to have the solenoid replaced.

 

I'm 3months new to Honda and this forum and it seem to me this is one weak link in the mechanics of a vtec. Low oil levels and pressure can trigger an intermittent problem and the engine drops into a "low rev" mode.

I'm juggling 3 threads on this right now I think. Strange. It is a good way to learn a new engine system by paying attention to the problems, however.

Do a thread search on "P2647". Look here:https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/gene...jerky-car.html

It will bring you full circle - I like when that happens, eh?

 

I keep my oil level at 1/2 way between the low and high level marks on the dip stick and even running boost of 5 PSI it stays there between changes.... I am at 10 PSI boost now with major tuning changes and expect that it is a good idea to keep a close eye on it, which I always have on all of my vehicles.