2007 w/ 140k miles
#1
2007 w/ 140k miles
Something for you all to look forward to...
These are all hard miles in the Siskiyou Mountains of Northern California. We have only had the car serviced by the original dealer where we bought the car.
It started as a misfire (sound familiar?) - brought it into the dealer for diagnosis. No code, but the battery was weak, so we replaced it. $
Misfire continues, especially when cold. Try running some injector cleaner through, no change. Put in new plugs. No change.
Return to dealer for valve adjustment (my idea), but no valve cover gasket, so had the injectors flushed out instead. Ran better for about a week, misfire returns. $$
Return to dealer, still no code. Suspect contaminated fuel - pull gas tank and clean. CEL comes on, leak in system due to gasket install error at dealer. Dealer fixes.
A few more weeks pass. CEL comes on flashing at worst possible location. Have car towed 100 miles to dealer. Thank you AAA. Shop says 3 out of 4 injectors bad. Replace all 4. $$$
Another week goes by. Misfire not as pronounced, but still not quite right. CEL returns, but goes out about a mile away from the dealer. They keep the car for a week, and replace plugs (again) and all four coil packs. No code, but service claims that when the coil packs were placed in another Fit, the problem transfered. Valves adjusted, twice, trying to find the problem. Leakdown test doesn't indicate any abnormal internal wear. Car runs great again for two weeks. No misfires, better mileage. $$$$
This morning, Check Engine Light returns. No noticable performance issues - just the cursed light.
Hoping something simple. Guess I need to purchase a code reader (rather than drive the 100 miles to the dealer each time).
Anyone have any recommendations on which make and model of code reader I need?
Any ideas on what else might be going on?
I wonder sometimes if the service department at the dealer knows WTF, but they have so much time invested in solving this problem ("Platinum" mechanics assigned, they've been renting us a car...) I'm hesitasnt to take it anywhere else. Plus, they perform a lot of the work as warranty on their supposed repair. Enough whining, I guess I have to make the long trip to the dealer to see what the latest is... will keep you posted.
These are all hard miles in the Siskiyou Mountains of Northern California. We have only had the car serviced by the original dealer where we bought the car.
It started as a misfire (sound familiar?) - brought it into the dealer for diagnosis. No code, but the battery was weak, so we replaced it. $
Misfire continues, especially when cold. Try running some injector cleaner through, no change. Put in new plugs. No change.
Return to dealer for valve adjustment (my idea), but no valve cover gasket, so had the injectors flushed out instead. Ran better for about a week, misfire returns. $$
Return to dealer, still no code. Suspect contaminated fuel - pull gas tank and clean. CEL comes on, leak in system due to gasket install error at dealer. Dealer fixes.
A few more weeks pass. CEL comes on flashing at worst possible location. Have car towed 100 miles to dealer. Thank you AAA. Shop says 3 out of 4 injectors bad. Replace all 4. $$$
Another week goes by. Misfire not as pronounced, but still not quite right. CEL returns, but goes out about a mile away from the dealer. They keep the car for a week, and replace plugs (again) and all four coil packs. No code, but service claims that when the coil packs were placed in another Fit, the problem transfered. Valves adjusted, twice, trying to find the problem. Leakdown test doesn't indicate any abnormal internal wear. Car runs great again for two weeks. No misfires, better mileage. $$$$
This morning, Check Engine Light returns. No noticable performance issues - just the cursed light.
Hoping something simple. Guess I need to purchase a code reader (rather than drive the 100 miles to the dealer each time).
Anyone have any recommendations on which make and model of code reader I need?
Any ideas on what else might be going on?
I wonder sometimes if the service department at the dealer knows WTF, but they have so much time invested in solving this problem ("Platinum" mechanics assigned, they've been renting us a car...) I'm hesitasnt to take it anywhere else. Plus, they perform a lot of the work as warranty on their supposed repair. Enough whining, I guess I have to make the long trip to the dealer to see what the latest is... will keep you posted.
#4
I can't talk to code readers but have been thinking of getting one, however, will you be prepared to service your car if you know a code? Looks like you'll still need to travel to the dealer. They've been working on your car, would you have been able to do all they have - or are you feeling you might have been able to do better.
Remember, knowing the code it just the beginning. Then you'll need to diagnose the problem then fix it. Better get a Honda Service Manual as well.
Search scan gauge for 'threads' on the forum lot's been said. Good luck post back your selection.
K_C_
Remember, knowing the code it just the beginning. Then you'll need to diagnose the problem then fix it. Better get a Honda Service Manual as well.
Search scan gauge for 'threads' on the forum lot's been said. Good luck post back your selection.
K_C_
#5
Sorry to hear that i have not heard to many problems with the Fit even ones with high miliage. Hope fully they find the problem. But i would keep going to them they have all ready done alot on it
#10
I wonder where they found an '07-'08 Fit to install your old coil packs on, another customer's car? That'd be messed up if they're experimenting with a customer's car. It'd better be one of their used cars, or one of the workers volunteered Fits...is that likely, or am I being too skeptical?
#11
To the OP, get a ScangaugeII. It'll let you see the codes & give you all kinds of good info like your intake temps, coolant temp, LOD, TPS etc. I wouldn't be able to live w/o one.
#12
With the gastank less than half full and you go into a corner hard, the gas will slosh to one side and draw a vaccum in your gas fill tube...that will turn your check engine light on with a leaking gas cap code. Stopped, start your engine three time (while completely turning the key to off), will clear the check engine light. If you pitch your car hard into a corner and the light comes on, just clear the ECU per above procedure.
#14
Im currently working at a honda dealership and been there for the past 5 yrs and i can honestly say that dealerships in general are fricken brutal when i comes to charging customers out of warranty. i bought my code reader from matcotools.com and use it almost everyday its faster than hooking up the bulky tablet that we have. as for the misfire they really should give you some kind of break seeing as you keep coming back for the same problems.....sorry for your troubles hope everything works out for ya
MICRO CODE II CODE READER
Part#: MC200 Price: $71.70
MICRO CODE II CODE READER
- MC200 is CAN enabled. (Controller Area Network)
- Designed for use on all 1996 and newer OBD-II compliant vehicles.
- Performs the huge task of emissions-control inspection and maintenance-readiness testing, or I/M by displaying the I/M Readiness Monitor Status.
- The small size makes it perfect for Tow Trucks or service vehicles as well as home use.
- Reads and displays MIL status, I/M monitors,pending codes and freeze frame data.
- Reads and displays VIN (easy way to check Vehicle ID Number)
- OBD II cable (attached), manual included
Part#: MC200 Price: $71.70
#16
No idea - only 3 posts... thanks for bumping this though, I just ordered the MICRO CODE II CODE READER. Forgot where I saw it.
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