From memory I remember 3 hours is max, but the thing is I would tow your car to them so that way there's no time for them to cool it down. Because I took mine I had to wait 6 hours total. And why is he asking 375? That's way too much!

 

My invoice from the dealership says $11 for parts and $104 for labor. It doesn't say how much time they spent on it.

I believe $115 is the standard price for this service at my dealership, as I was quoted over the phone before bringing in the vehicle.

 

So I paid $225 to have the exhasts loosen. My car hasn't stalled if i drive without warming it up. However, it has stalled twice in two weeks as I'm stopped at a stop light after my engine is properly warmed up. I guess this is worst than before. The car would rattle then stall as i have my foot on the brake at a stop light. It doesn't happen often nor could i reproduce it liek i could with the last problem. With the last problem, i would just drive on a cold engine and it would stall 80% of the time.
The first day after i had the exhasts loosen, when i reved, i noticed that it was truggling to get up to 65 on the highway.. and the check engine light was flickering then turned off. I haven't had such issues since but i've stalled twice at red lights.

What could be my problem now? I guess he misdiagnosed the initial problem. Now I have to pay again if he makes a new diagnosis. He thinks it's the coils..

 

Best way to diagnosis ignition coils is put the car under a tough load like having AC all the way. If you feel as if it misfires then it's your coils. The stalling is a result of your valves needing to be adjusted

 

My valves were adjusted. The car no longer dies when running cold. However, it now dies when running warm. Twice at stop lights.. quick studders then engine stall and i would have to restart. This had never happened before. Happened twice since the valves were adjusted.
Coincidence that my coils are acting up now once the valves were adjusted? Never had engine stall at stop light. I've always felt a rough idle or studdering but just not as bad as now.. it only studders sometimes and not all the time and sometimes it's worst than others.

 

It could be a few things but I think the most logical hypothesis is that the valves were adjusted out of the specification range. Since that's the most recent thing that was done to your car.

So instead of the clearances being within specs when warmed up, the clearances are now within specs cold (and out of spec when warmed up).

It just depends on how much attention to detail your mechanic put in when he/she did the adjustment.

 

It looks like Honda has screwed up my valve adjustment. They took 6 hours to do it when I went to do it before and now I think I'll need it again.

What I'm experiencing is that even if it's a cold start I will hear some clanking noise and it's not the valve cover that I'm hearing because it sounds like a coin dropping on a frying pan.

 

I would guess your coils packs causing issues intermittent stalling same issue here with mine waiting on new pack to arrive..

I think there is a way to back probe coil circuits for for correct resistance reading but i have not been able to find accurate diy way with the fit

 

My coils are brand new actually and a friend said my valves were good.

 

What coil packs did you get are they the oem hatachi?

I had brand new import direct coils that went a week then started stalling with no cel went with hatachi and haven't had issues sence

 

I went with denso coils. I haven't had issues either

 

due to another issue, I had a new head and short block put in my 2008 Fit (long story). The replacements have a 36k mile warranty. My question is, if the head was installed correctly, should I expect to have valves out of adjustment after only 20k miles? Would this be considered something to be addressed under warranty?

 

The coils can be expensive as high as 146.00 per coil but I have searched around. I was told I only needed to replace 2 coils and they charged me 137.00 for labor cause i brought my own coils. Autozone want 100.00 a coil, Napa auto parts was $75.00 per coil and at the time i went to napa to purchase all 4 of them and it costed me 308.00 for a set of 4. But after replacing 2 of them 8 months later i am having the same problem so this time i am replacing all 4 of them plus the plugs and guess what i am doing it myself first. Great deal even better than what i did before JCWhitney.com I can get a set of 4 for 132.00 and 8set plugs for under 20.00. i saw the video on how to change coils and sparks plug I am going to take the challenge.

 

This is the perfect example why all owners should buy an OBD reader for about $50 at one of the aftermarket parts sellers; at 116k miles you should expect to have to replace the coil paks and spark plugs but to keep costs down you need the reader to tell which ones need replacing by the codes thrown. Its a simple process and puts you ahead of the shops.
while valve adjustment can help its not likely the solution and those coil paks and plugs can easily set you back $150 per. its not an improvement over the old points and plug at $20 the set but modern technology is the reason; cheaper for manufacturer and more costly to owners.
so buy a reader, replace coils and plugs as needed and get on with it. Surely you didn't think saving the earth was going to be cheaper.
Do be careful about cheapaftermarket coil paks, we've had some unfortunate experiences with cheap coils.

 

My Fit started stalling this Autumn and I finally decided to research the problem today. That is how I found Fitfreak and discovered it is a common problem.

 

When I first found this post, I told EVERYONE it's probably a valve adjustment issue (I don't know about cars, but that seemed to be the common issue).

Went to a Honda Dealership and they had NO idea what was going on but said I probably need my spark plugs and coil pack changed (they tried to charge over $500, but my husband just changed it out with parts my dad send for less than 1/2 of that). We even changed the battery to my car and that wasn't the issue. I dropped my car off and Honda gave me a loaner car and a day later they said it needed a valve adjustment. Now the car is running like it had no issues at all.

 

I had a similar issue (rough idle for a few seconds and occasional stall when started cold) and after finding this thread, I got my valves adjusted (2007 Fit Sport 5MT with 88k miles). The valve adjustment solved it completely and now my car starts and runs perfectly.

Thanks again for the good advice!

 

this stalling out bs is continuing to come back and haunt me once again,best i had a year with no problems after changing both once again still having slight puddering poping idle nose not smooth, might have to re ajust valves once again this issue is becoming very annoying ever scene had kraft werk kit put in has always had some issue with car dying

 

did the valve ajustment just to make sure everything is strait and after words getting same idle then got a missfire cylinder 1 i apparently keep getting bs coils even know there oem Hitachi ill just have to keep getting warrenty part sent in for new its good news but still cant understand why i have bad luck with coils , i wish i could get some custom high durable quality coils made for the fit

 

after a year of trouble shooting stalling misfire doing multiple valve adjustments i be leave finally fix my idle, i was getting ready to clean fuel injectors with notice 4 of the wires to the quick connectors where to seem not pushed in like the others and presto smooth idle the noise i was haring was a injector not putting out enough fuel, something as little as that i over looked and just assumed it was coils or plugs this was with the rsx 410cc injector and kwsc so to any one else with symptoms definitely something to check first....