I'm fairly new to Honda fit and to vehicles with many causes for engine light problems. We bought with 103,500 miles (2008 Fit Sport--made in 6/08--does this make it 1st generation?), light came on within 1000 miles, code reading misfire in #3. I changed all spark plugs, using NGK plug recommended in manual, also switched #2 and #3 coil packs. Light has come back on after a few hundred miles with same code reading (#3 misfire). I switched #2 and #3 plugs, undid battery, but light came right back on. Haven't done anything with injectors yet, just put whole bottle of seafoam in. I did order a spare rebuilt fuel injector.
I'd welcome any advice. Car runs pretty well, except for rougher idling than I'd like. The problem is that it's my wife's car, and she'll never be comfortable until I get the engine light out!

 

Replace all coil packs. That is your solution. Search this forum. That information is all over the place. Some people recommend aftermarket coil packs to save money and some, like me, would stick with OEM.

 

At 100k your problem is likely coil packs and you needed to replace the plugs anyway. however:
1. did you reset the code using the reader? If you didn't the system doesn't know you have fixed with the coil pack switch. The light then comes back on immediately if its not reset. Your ECU 'memorizes' the code and keeps it til you fix the problem.
2. when you reset the light after fixing, the light typically won't come on if theres a problem for anywhere from 25 to 200 miles. In your case if the problem is the coil pak originally on 3, it will then show #2 misfire. Unhooking the battery may have the same effect as reset but not necessarily.
3. rough idling could be likely a fuel problem and a good dose of injector cleaner is needed, maybe 2. WallyWorld has good non alcohol injector cleaner for about a buck; its good to clean the injectors once a month anyway. Todays gas delivery systems are not that clean..
Good luck. And check all your connections. You sure about plug gap?

 

[QUOTE=mahout;1207380]
1. did you reset the code using the reader? If you didn't the system doesn't know you have fixed with the coil pack switch. The light then comes back on immediately if its not reset. Your ECU 'memorizes' the code and keeps it til you fix the problem.
QUOTE]

How do you reset the system? I thought undoing the negative terminal on the battery was the reset.

 

Hey, thanks for the replies! I had checked out the entire first page of forums and didn't see anything related to trouble-prone coil packs, but I didn't realize how many pages of forums there were.
I couldn't find plug gap in owner's manual, but the Honda parts guy told me it's supposed to be 1.2-1.3mm (.042-.051). I did check the gap before I installed them.
I actually replaced the coil pack in #3 with one I got on e-bay when the code first showed up. The one in the car when we bought it was a Hitachi C CM-11-110, 8617C. Anybody know if this is what Honda originally installed?
The one I bought on e-bay had the same code, except it was a 5215C.
I've always liked Denso stuff. Is it worth the extra money?
Thanks also for info about resetting code with reader. I assumed that unhooking the battery would do the same thing.

 

Rough idling is a symptom of valve clearance problems. If you haven't done it yet you are way overdue. And this could also be causing the MIL.

 

U may have a vacuum leak. Changing plugs and coil packs didn't solve my problem... Found a vacuum leak between the break booster and the manifold; and that solved my issue after so much $$$ spent for those damn packs.

 

don't feel badly. You would have needed new coil packs in time anyway. It was not money wasted, even though as you said, it was a lot of money

 

Could need a valve adjustment. That's what caused my CEL to come on with a misfire on cylinder #3 earlier this year.