^^^ Very true.




I recommend the "GO - NO GO" method for the beginner:

If the spec is between .009 and .011, have TWO feelers at the ready. If adjusted properly, a .008 should always slip through easily (GO). A .012 should not be able to be inserted AT ALL. (NO GO)

In this example, if you wanted a more consistent result, you would use feelers that are closer in value. (So, a .009 GO and a .011 NO GO would give you a .010 clearance for all valves.

 

Valve adjustments aren't very difficult to do as long as you follow the instructions. I can't imagine paying a dealer as much as they charge to perform the service. If anyone is near Austin and needs it done, I'll cut you a deal.


I've done it about three times on the Fit and a few times on my Civic.

 

this is the technique we have used to train at least a hundred honda owners since 1976. trying to adjust with just one feeler gage requires more than a one time, or even 3 times, of experience.
when you want to check clearances make sure you have advanced the rotation so that each cylinder is at dead top center in order, for example 1,3,4, and 2,by half rotating the crankshaft each time (180 degrees), taking 2 full rotations to set the valves, doing both intake and exhaust on each cylinder. this little effort is the place we found most difficult for beginners.
oh and make the engine is not hot, nor real cold either - 50-70 degrees F is best.
that's part of the high cost at dealerships even if they have fans to cool the engine down (you drove it there, right). still two hours is at least minimum or $200 or so.
and if you miss the rotation keep going in the proper direction to the next cylinder and back again. for the anal, its not good to back the rotation to get it on TDC. if the valves aretightyou're on wrong TDC. the valves are fully closed on TDC at firing of spark plugs,
good luck.hey shade tree mechanic is a far better title than manual driver, which just says you are a slow and old driver. (I'm near 80 and until 10 years ago never owned an auto, but now automatics are so much quicker than manuals they are relegated to the ancient car collection.
don't believe it? see how many racers drive manuals, and nascar isn't long to continue using them.

 

THREAD DRIFT ALERT!!!!!!!!!




Come to Watkins Glen NY on July 1st, 2015, I'm instructing at an HPDE event there.
(HDPE = High Performance Drivers Education)


I may be old (well, maybe not as old as you) but I'm not slow. LOL

And I can teach most drivers to be faster and smoother (which not only helps at the track, but can have benefits on the street, as well).

I agree though, in a few years there will be no reason to have a driver-shifted manual. The dual-clutch auto 'boxes have come a long way (but many have a ways to go, yet).

Now,

 

I actually raced there on the long course; and even now I'm an HPDE instructor. I lap faster than my students but you should too.
the point is not how fast you can lap watkins but whether manuals are faster than automatics. the answer is that automatics shift quicker than manuals and thus have better lap times. I've tried a VW with manual and same one with the dual clutch automatic at VIR, my home track, and the automatic was consistently a second per lap faster. if manuals were faster do you think sebastion or montoya would be driving automatics? manuals belong now in the vintage car fields. as the big bang theory would say, no offense intended, just fact. I suspect in like cars with and without automatic, the automatic will lap faster.

 

Pretty important. Keeps your engine in health and running at peak performance. Just as important if not more than an oil change. Mis-adjusted valves can lead to excess wear, which will decrease mileage efficiency, performance, and general longevity of your engine. It's a pretty nominal repair cost, I'd say get it done with your next tune up. It's a common Honda engine maintenance thing, and it's good to have done.

 

I'm at 137K on my '08 Sport 5MT and just had an independent mechanic do my first valve adjustment for me. For anyone curious about cost, in addition to the valve adj, had him do a coolant flush & manual tranny flush. Quoted at $250, and he even flushed the brakes and installed new brake fluid without even being asked. Nice guy. Did it all in 3 hr. flat.

I should have had the valve adj done long ago. I could instantly tell the engine was freer-revving and happier. Anyone on the fence, don't wait.

 

That's awfully late, you didn't have the notorious tapping? Some folks make it a long time but I'm pretty sure every 30-60k is the range it's supposed to be done in.

What repairs have you had to do so far?

 

Nope, no tapping, no weird noises, just hesitant, esp on cold starts, and I still average around 37-38mpg. I believe the official recommendation is 100K on the valve adj, someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

Still on the original coilpacks. I cleaned the coilpacks when I did the plugs about 20K ago and they looked fine. I'll replace those at the first sign of trouble. Other than wear items, really no other maintenance to speak of.

 

Nope you're on the right track, 100k is the general time that a serious checkup of the valve train is needed, but the official recommended check interval for almost all honda 4cyl engines is every 30k miles.

That's pretty good maintenance record, I hope I get that long out of mine.

That's great fuel economy also btw. I'm averaging 34 with a lead foot.