Hatch Latch: botched repair vs. wear and tear
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Joined: Jan 2016
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From: Fort Saskatchewan
Hatch Latch: botched repair vs. wear and tear
Quick backstory: I had the lock cylinder replaced on the hatchback door of my base model 2008 Honda fit at a local Honda dealership. Under a year later, I started to develop problems with not being able to unlock the hatchback door. It happened only occasionally at first, though now this has become a permanent problem. Basically, the key won't turn in the lock and the handle mechanism seems stuck in place.
I took my car back to the dealership where I had the work done - after performing a diagnosis they told me that my hatch latch needs to be replaced.
It feels awfully coincidental to have my hatch latch develop issues so soon after I had this work done on hatchback lock but I am admittedly pretty naive as to how much the two are related.
My question: Is it likely that this hatch latch issue is just a coincidence, or is this somehow related to the repair for which the dealership service center should be held accountable?
I took my car back to the dealership where I had the work done - after performing a diagnosis they told me that my hatch latch needs to be replaced.
It feels awfully coincidental to have my hatch latch develop issues so soon after I had this work done on hatchback lock but I am admittedly pretty naive as to how much the two are related.
My question: Is it likely that this hatch latch issue is just a coincidence, or is this somehow related to the repair for which the dealership service center should be held accountable?
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Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,128
From: Digging in your fridge
If the handle sticks in the 'squeezed' position and you cycle the locks, the latch won't allow the tailgate to open (on mine it was discovered using the power lock, I suppose the key lock would do the same).
If you can manually push the handle forward and that allows the key to turn, I'd say to lube everything first.
On mine the main issue was a sticking latch.
Lube the latch, lube the handle, lube the cable between the two.
I used silicone spray on ours because it was handy and it improved operation a lot, no more sticking. I had the door panel off so it was easy to spray the lube at everything.
Lube the lock cylinder where the key goes in with graphite....if it needs lube.
I have had to replace a couple outer handles because of rust causing them to bind and not release when you let go of it. The rest have worked well with some lube,
If it's an issue of the lock cylinder and key, their warranty is probably a standard 12 months type of thing, check your paperwork.
If you can manually push the handle forward and that allows the key to turn, I'd say to lube everything first.
On mine the main issue was a sticking latch.
Lube the latch, lube the handle, lube the cable between the two.
I used silicone spray on ours because it was handy and it improved operation a lot, no more sticking. I had the door panel off so it was easy to spray the lube at everything.
Lube the lock cylinder where the key goes in with graphite....if it needs lube.
I have had to replace a couple outer handles because of rust causing them to bind and not release when you let go of it. The rest have worked well with some lube,
If it's an issue of the lock cylinder and key, their warranty is probably a standard 12 months type of thing, check your paperwork.
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