How to run ABS modulator manually? does anybody done this before? i'm try to bleed brake system using this method, my car brake feel mushy

 

I've always just invoked the ABS in a parking lot (EG, some wheels on wet pavement, the others on dry). Do this several times.

Then, re-bleed the system.

The dealers can engage ABS with their diagnostic tool, is that an option for you?

PS, I've had good luck with handheld vacuum bleeders such as this MityVac:


Mityvac MV8020 Brake Bleeder - Brake Tools

 

Thanks for the suggestion, i'm use vacuum pump, the problem is, when bleed rear caliper, no fluid coming out, but when depress brake pedal when nipple is open, brake fluid is coming out

 

Should we disconnect the battery perhaps? Probably not needed, but maybe a valve is closed at rest? I'm scratching my head too ...

 

If there is an air bubble in the ABS system, it **should** be "moved on" when the ABS pump is actuated. Since pumping the pedal results in fluid flow, you should be able to get any air out.

Have you bled the system totally, until the brake fluid comes out clean and clear? Or are you just trying to fix the immediate issue?



If you have a mushy pedal despite a total flush and verified there are no leaks, it's time to consider a bad master cylinder...

 

Hi, I try to reverse bleed all 4 caliper using 150ml syringe, the problem is rear caliper cannot bleed using this method, including vacuum bleed, It only can bleed using depress brake pedal & open a bleeder screw, maybe valve inside abs modulator is closed, and im already change a master cylinder few month ago, and bench bleed it,

 

Might have a bad rubber brake line. A typical failure of the rubber is for the inside to swell, and not allow low pressure return. It will look fine on the outside.

 

hi carbuff2,
i would like to know whether ABS module required reprogramming after doing brake job?

Thank you

 

I've done several brake replacements and fluid flushes on friend's and my own Hondas, and I've never needed to 'reprogram' the ABS.

++++++++++

Did this issue begin when you replaced the Master? If so there might still be an air pocket inside. I had one car (not a Honda) where the only way I could get all the air out of a new Master was to un-bolt it and tilt it various ways while bleeding.

 

This problem happen after changing brake pad to bendix general CT, it seem like system cannot hold pressure, caliper & hose looks dry, but not sure on steel line, is it worth buying braided brake hose?

 

^^ usually that's an indicator that you need to replace a caliper. When the thicker, new pads change the position of the pistons inside, they bind (due to rust). The issue is inside the caliper so you might not see it.

Regards using SS brake line, I have those on my sports car (as it sees time on the track) but I think rubber lines are fine for a street SUV. (Same with slotted/drilled rotors.)

 

I think i have a bad/fail abs modulator, after trying heavy braking on high speed 160km/j (100mph), car skid and not hear pumping noise on abs modulator/caliper, but no check engine light and fuse are check, 3 abs fuse in good condition

 

If you apply brakes REALLY heavily, all the wheels will lock so the ABS system does not come into play. You will NOT hear or feel pumping under those circumstances.

If there is a place in Malaysia that can properly diagnose your issues you could do that.